For even the casual diner, it is no secret that Peruvian cuisine has become a big deal over the past decade, and in recent years the UAE has seen a number of excellent Peruvian establishments open their doors.
Now, the Michelin star chef of Peruvian cooking is launching a restaurant in Dubai. Virgilio Martínez is the chef/owner of Central Restaurante in Peru, which sits at number four on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list. But for the celebrated 39-year old, who is featured in Chef's Table: Season 3, currently airing on Netflix, a life in the kitchen was never the plan.
Martínez grew up in Miraflores, a middle-class neighbourhood in Lima, and he always wanted to travel. But when his career as a semi-professional skateboarder was ended by two consecutive shoulder injuries he saw cooking as an alternative way to see the world and escape the instability of Lima in the 1990s.
Starting out as a commis chef, Martínez learnt how to cook his way around the globe in Italian, French, Asian and American restaurants. After a decade he went home to embark on a journey around Peru to discover the cuisine of his own country.
“They were tough kitchens,” he admits. “I had a lot of difficult times, but I was trained in a very difficult atmosphere, so, going back to Peru after 10 years, it felt like freedom to come home to try to break the rules, once I knew the basics. It would be impossible to do what I’m doing now without those times.”
His Central Restaurante uses about 180 different ingredients, of which half are not used anywhere else in the UAE. Martínez and his team forage Peru in the Amazonian jungle, the desert, mountains of the Andes and coastline of the country just to find new things to put on the menu and new ways to represent Peru’s many regions.
But while Central is the grand culinary representation of ecosystems and varied climates of Peru, he, along with partners Gabriel and José-Luis Gonzalez, opened an offshoot restaurant, Lima in London, in 2012 as an expression of the food from his home city.
Modern, inventive and accessible, it won a Michelin star within two years of opening. It is a branch of Lima that opened in Dubai yesterday.
“Central is a tasting-menu with 18 courses, and each course represents an altitude of the country – from the sea to the mountains. At Lima, it’s like the food you get in the city of Lima itself. More casual and more traditional, but still with innovation, this is the modern cuisine that’s happening in Lima city right now,” Martínez explains. “I have contacts there, it’s where I now live and whatever is happening in Lima city I will put on the menu here.”
One thing that impressed Martínez as he prepared his latest launch was the ease of setting up an eatery in Dubai.
“We had problems in London when we opened Lima, from getting visas for the young chefs to importing my ingredients from Peru, but had none of those problems here – which was amazing,” he says. “It’s incredible how Dubai makes things easier for us, and I’m having really boutique products flown in – I spoke to my producer of potatoes in the Andes today and it’s fine to send here.”
As a result, this is set to be the real deal, with Peruvian food as authentic as you’re likely to find.
Sure, the carbon footprint for those ingredients flying the 14,735 kilometres from Lima to Dubai is going to make environmentalists weep, but the vast majority of ingredients for all restaurants in the UAE are flown in. At least with Lima, they’re things you won’t be able to try elsewhere.
“We’re bringing Andean grains, potatoes from 4,000 metres up in the mountains, an Amazonian fish called piache, different tubas and vegetables and fruits for cocktails. These things have been in Peru for thousands of years but have not travelled much before,” Martínez adds. Even the tables in the restaurant and other parts of the décor have been brought over, as well as, of course, the eight Peruvian chefs.
So why has Peruvian cuisine become so globally popular?
“The whole nature of our biodiversity is huge and in Peru you only have to travel 30 minutes to an hour to see a whole different microclimate and eco-system. We’re growing different varieties of corn, potatoes, tomatoes, cacao and many ingredients but really, who doesn’t like tomatoes, corn, potatoes or chocolate, right?”
And along with the melting pot of styles, influences and huge range of ingredients Martínez believes it has been driven further by the modern superfood trend. “Quinoa, chia seeds, maca root. Things like that from Peru give the cuisine a mysticism. I go to the Andes, I see how people adore the soil, and when I’m in the jungle I see how people have a communication with trees and natural surroundings,” he says before adding with a smile: “It all makes the food desirable.”
Other Peruvian restaurants in the UAE
Coya Dubai
From the group that gave us Zuma, this restaurant offers good value high-end Peruvian dishes. The brunch is the best (and best-value) way to experience it, especially if you like a pisco sour on the side.
• Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, 04 316 9600
LIMO
There are no menus, instead the food is presented tableside for you to choose from and it broadly covers an inventive trip through Peruvian classic seafood ceviches, lobsters, lomos and traditional desserts
• Bab Al Qasr Millennium Hotel Abu Dhabi, 02 205 3000
Mayta By Jaime Pesaque
The much-travelled and celebrated chef brings his take on Peruvian classics presented in sharing portions, but also with some outstanding mains you won’t get elsewhere, such as his cilantro braised lamb shank with spiced pumpkin purée.
• Capital Club, Gate Village, Building 3, DIFC, Dubai, 04 437 6053
Pollo Pollo
Peruvian chicken restaurant with chefs brought in from Peru. It’s an authentic menu and the picarones (sweet potato and squash doughnuts with sweet sauce) is a lovely dessert you may not have tried before.
• Umm Al Sheif Street, Umm Suqeim, Dubai, 04 399 9951
INKA Dubai
The 34th-floor lounge and restaurant has a lovely setting and a set menu for Dh245 that includes dishes including a queso helado dessert comprising sweet coconut popsicle with tobacco syrup, toschi cherries and white chocolate yogurt.
• Sofitel, Dubai Downtown, 04 346 9295
Ceviche
Chefs Percy and Gonzalo serve up the classics to the DIFC crowd with ceviches dominating the menu, but also some bigger mains like their fine aji de gallina – chicken breast strips, parmesan and yellow chilli cream.
• Emirates Financial Towers, DIFC, Dubai, 04 326 6333
Totora Cebichera Peruana
More of a party place than the others – including a stylised Inca-inspired rope bridge you cross to enter – this two-floor lounge bar/restaurant nevertheless has an extensive menu of traditional dishes and an all-Peruvian back-of-house team.
• Gate Village, Building 7, DIFC, Dubai, 04 399 9666
Garden Peruvian Restaurant
This home-grown concept from Peruvian chef, Edgar Hurtado has been given a home in the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel and it pretty much hits all the right notes, with ceviches, tiraditos, a pisco bar and a Patagonian toothfish main-course worth visiting for alone.
• JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, 04 414 3000
• Lima Dubai is located at City Walk. For more information visit www.limadubai.com
artslife@thenational.ae
KEY%20DATES%20IN%20AMAZON'S%20HISTORY
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Dubai World Cup Carnival Card:
6.30pm: Handicap US$135,000 (Turf) 1,200m
7.05pm: Handicap $135,000 (Dirt) 1,200m
7.40pm: Zabeel Turf Listed $175,000 (T) 2,000m
8.15pm: Cape Verdi Group Two $250,000 (T) 1,600m
8.50pm: Handicap $135,000 (D) 1,600m
9.25pm: Handicap $175,000 (T) 1,600m
COMPANY%20PROFILE
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%20name%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dresos%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20September%202020%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Vladimir%20Radojevic%20and%20Aleksandar%20Jankovic%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%2C%20UAE%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Fashion%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%24285%2C000%3B%20%24500%2C000%20currently%20being%20raised%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestors%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Crowdfunding%2C%20family%2C%20friends%20and%20self-funding%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Messi at the Copa America
2007 – lost 3-0 to Brazil in the final
2011 – lost to Uruguay on penalties in the quarter-finals
2015 – lost to Chile on penalties in the final
2016 – lost to Chile on penalties in the final
Indoor cricket in a nutshell
Indoor Cricket World Cup – Sep 16-20, Insportz, Dubai
16 Indoor cricket matches are 16 overs per side
8 There are eight players per team
9 There have been nine Indoor Cricket World Cups for men. Australia have won every one.
5 Five runs are deducted from the score when a wickets falls
4 Batsmen bat in pairs, facing four overs per partnership
Scoring In indoor cricket, runs are scored by way of both physical and bonus runs. Physical runs are scored by both batsmen completing a run from one crease to the other. Bonus runs are scored when the ball hits a net in different zones, but only when at least one physical run is score.
Zones
A Front net, behind the striker and wicketkeeper: 0 runs
B Side nets, between the striker and halfway down the pitch: 1 run
C Side nets between halfway and the bowlers end: 2 runs
D Back net: 4 runs on the bounce, 6 runs on the full
Retail gloom
Online grocer Ocado revealed retail sales fell 5.7 per cen in its first quarter as customers switched back to pre-pandemic shopping patterns.
It was a tough comparison from a year earlier, when the UK was in lockdown, but on a two-year basis its retail division, a joint venture with Marks&Spencer, rose 31.7 per cent over the quarter.
The group added that a 15 per cent drop in customer basket size offset an 11.6. per cent rise in the number of customer transactions.
How to help
Send “thenational” to the following numbers or call the hotline on: 0502955999
2289 – Dh10
2252 – Dh 50
6025 – Dh20
6027 – Dh 100
6026 – Dh 200
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
GAC GS8 Specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo
Power: 248hp at 5,200rpm
Torque: 400Nm at 1,750-4,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 9.1L/100km
On sale: Now
Price: From Dh149,900
'The Coddling of the American Mind: How Good Intentions and Bad Ideas are Setting up a Generation for Failure'
Greg Lukianoff and Jonathan Haidt, Penguin Randomhouse
The story of Edge
Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces, established Edge in 2019.
It brought together 25 state-owned and independent companies specialising in weapons systems, cyber protection and electronic warfare.
Edge has an annual revenue of $5 billion and employs more than 12,000 people.
Some of the companies include Nimr, a maker of armoured vehicles, Caracal, which manufactures guns and ammunitions company, Lahab
More from Rashmee Roshan Lall
What is dialysis?
Dialysis is a way of cleaning your blood when your kidneys fail and can no longer do the job.
It gets rid of your body's wastes, extra salt and water, and helps to control your blood pressure. The main cause of kidney failure is diabetes and hypertension.
There are two kinds of dialysis — haemodialysis and peritoneal.
In haemodialysis, blood is pumped out of your body to an artificial kidney machine that filter your blood and returns it to your body by tubes.
In peritoneal dialysis, the inside lining of your own belly acts as a natural filter. Wastes are taken out by means of a cleansing fluid which is washed in and out of your belly in cycles.
It isn’t an option for everyone but if eligible, can be done at home by the patient or caregiver. This, as opposed to home haemodialysis, is covered by insurance in the UAE.
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ANATOMY%20OF%20A%20FALL
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJustine%20Triet%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESandra%20Huller%2C%20Swann%20Arlaud%2C%20Milo%20Machado-Graner%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%205%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Dr Afridi's warning signs of digital addiction
Spending an excessive amount of time on the phone.
Neglecting personal, social, or academic responsibilities.
Losing interest in other activities or hobbies that were once enjoyed.
Having withdrawal symptoms like feeling anxious, restless, or upset when the technology is not available.
Experiencing sleep disturbances or changes in sleep patterns.
What are the guidelines?
Under 18 months: Avoid screen time altogether, except for video chatting with family.
Aged 18-24 months: If screens are introduced, it should be high-quality content watched with a caregiver to help the child understand what they are seeing.
Aged 2-5 years: Limit to one-hour per day of high-quality programming, with co-viewing whenever possible.
Aged 6-12 years: Set consistent limits on screen time to ensure it does not interfere with sleep, physical activity, or social interactions.
Teenagers: Encourage a balanced approach – screens should not replace sleep, exercise, or face-to-face socialisation.
Source: American Paediatric Association
PROFILE OF SWVL
Started: April 2017
Founders: Mostafa Kandil, Ahmed Sabbah and Mahmoud Nouh
Based: Cairo, Egypt
Sector: transport
Size: 450 employees
Investment: approximately $80 million
Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani
The%20specs
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%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EBlitz%20Bazawule%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFantasia%20Barrino%2C%20Taraji%20P%20Henson%2C%20Danielle%20Brooks%2C%20Colman%20Domingo%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%204%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
More from Neighbourhood Watch:
Diriyah%20project%20at%20a%20glance
%3Cp%3E-%20Diriyah%E2%80%99s%201.9km%20King%20Salman%20Boulevard%2C%20a%20Parisian%20Champs-Elysees-inspired%20avenue%2C%20is%20scheduled%20for%20completion%20in%202028%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20The%20Royal%20Diriyah%20Opera%20House%20is%20expected%20to%20be%20completed%20in%20four%20years%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20Diriyah%E2%80%99s%20first%20of%2042%20hotels%2C%20the%20Bab%20Samhan%20hotel%2C%20will%20open%20in%20the%20first%20quarter%20of%202024%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20On%20completion%20in%202030%2C%20the%20Diriyah%20project%20is%20forecast%20to%20accommodate%20more%20than%20100%2C000%20people%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20The%20%2463.2%20billion%20Diriyah%20project%20will%20contribute%20%247.2%20billion%20to%20the%20kingdom%E2%80%99s%20GDP%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20It%20will%20create%20more%20than%20178%2C000%20jobs%20and%20aims%20to%20attract%20more%20than%2050%20million%20visits%20a%20year%0D%3Cbr%3E-%20About%202%2C000%20people%20work%20for%20the%20Diriyah%20Company%2C%20with%20more%20than%2086%20per%20cent%20being%20Saudi%20citizens%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
How it works
Each player begins with one of the great empires of history, from Julius Caesar's Rome to Ramses of Egypt, spread over Europe and the Middle East.
Round by round, the player expands their empire. The more land they have, the more money they can take from their coffers for each go.
As unruled land and soldiers are acquired, players must feed them. When a player comes up against land held by another army, they can choose to battle for supremacy.
A dice-based battle system is used and players can get the edge on their enemy with by deploying a renowned hero on the battlefield.
Players that lose battles and land will find their coffers dwindle and troops go hungry. The end goal? Global domination of course.
The bio
His favourite book - 1984 by George Orwell
His favourite quote - 'If you think education is expensive, try ignorance' by Derek Bok, Former President of Harvard
Favourite place to travel to - Peloponnese, Southern Greece
Favourite movie - The Last Emperor
Favourite personality from history - Alexander the Great
Role Model - My father, Yiannis Davos
The bio
Who inspires you?
I am in awe of the remarkable women in the Arab region, both big and small, pushing boundaries and becoming role models for generations. Emily Nasrallah was a writer, journalist, teacher and women’s rights activist
How do you relax?
Yoga relaxes me and helps me relieve tension, especially now when we’re practically chained to laptops and desks. I enjoy learning more about music and the history of famous music bands and genres.
What is favourite book?
The Perks of Being a Wallflower - I think I've read it more than 7 times
What is your favourite Arabic film?
Hala2 Lawen (Translation: Where Do We Go Now?) by Nadine Labaki
What is favourite English film?
Mamma Mia
Best piece of advice to someone looking for a career at Google?
If you’re interested in a career at Google, deep dive into the different career paths and pinpoint the space you want to join. When you know your space, you’re likely to identify the skills you need to develop.
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
'Avengers: Infinity War'
Dir: The Russo Brothers
Starring: Chris Evans, Chris Pratt, Tom Holland, Robert Downey Junior, Scarlett Johansson, Elizabeth Olsen
Four stars
Sholto Byrnes on Myanmar politics
House-hunting
Top 10 locations for inquiries from US house hunters, according to Rightmove
- Edinburgh, Scotland
- Westminster, London
- Camden, London
- Glasgow, Scotland
- Islington, London
- Kensington and Chelsea, London
- Highlands, Scotland
- Argyll and Bute, Scotland
- Fife, Scotland
- Tower Hamlets, London
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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The burning issue
The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.
Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on
Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins
Read part one: how cars came to the UAE
MATCH INFO
Bangla Tigers 108-5 (10 ovs)
Ingram 37, Rossouw 26, Pretorius 2-10
Deccan Gladiators 109-4 (9.5 ovs)
Watson 41, Devcich 27, Wiese 2-15
Gladiators win by six wickets
More from Aya Iskandarani
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Our legal consultant
Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais
Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants
Overall head-to-head
Federer 6-1 Cilic
Head-to-head at Wimbledon
Federer 1-0 Cilic
Grand Slams titles
Federer 18-1 Cilic
Best Wimbledon performance
Federer: Winner (2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2012)
Cilic: Final (2017*)
UK's plans to cut net migration
Under the UK government’s proposals, migrants will have to spend 10 years in the UK before being able to apply for citizenship.
Skilled worker visas will require a university degree, and there will be tighter restrictions on recruitment for jobs with skills shortages.
But what are described as "high-contributing" individuals such as doctors and nurses could be fast-tracked through the system.
Language requirements will be increased for all immigration routes to ensure a higher level of English.
Rules will also be laid out for adult dependants, meaning they will have to demonstrate a basic understanding of the language.
The plans also call for stricter tests for colleges and universities offering places to foreign students and a reduction in the time graduates can remain in the UK after their studies from two years to 18 months.
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