Shoppers on Fifth Avenue in New York. Consumers can now pay for smaller purchases, such as T-shirts and jeans, in instalments. Photo: AFP
Shoppers on Fifth Avenue in New York. Consumers can now pay for smaller purchases, such as T-shirts and jeans, in instalments. Photo: AFP
Shoppers on Fifth Avenue in New York. Consumers can now pay for smaller purchases, such as T-shirts and jeans, in instalments. Photo: AFP
Shoppers on Fifth Avenue in New York. Consumers can now pay for smaller purchases, such as T-shirts and jeans, in instalments. Photo: AFP

Cash-strapped millennials now use instalment plans to pay for clothes


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Instalment plans have helped shoppers afford large purchases since the late 19th century and are still available for pricey items like cars and smartphones. But to delay payment for a T-shirt and a couple pairs of jeans, you needed a credit card. Now several FinTech startups are putting smaller purchases on instalment, too.

Earlier this year, Australia’s Afterpay began offering instalment plans in the US, joining Affirm, a San Francisco startup launched by PayPal co-founder Max Levchin.

Square announced its own instalments plan in October; so did Swedish payments company Klarna, which has teamed up with H&M to offer services in 14 markets it did not name.

Affirm and Afterpay say they are targeting millennial shoppers by filling a gap between credit cards and store credit, which require lots of paperwork and a strong credit rating. Perhaps mindful of the new competition, established players such as Discover warn that these upstarts could run into trouble should the economy sour and defaults spike.

Consumers apply online or via app and learn whether they have been approved in seconds. They click a button at checkout on the websites of participating retailers if they want to pay by instalment. Cotton On, which sells inexpensive apparel, began offering US instalments through Afterpay in August. E-commerce chief Brendan Sweeney says 20 per ent of buyers are already using the feature, which breaks up bills into four equal parts spread over six weeks and charges no interest.

“I was kind of skeptical that there would be a market for people interested in installments, but there clearly is,” he says. “We’ve seen a remarkable uptake from millennial customers.” Mr Sweeney says shoppers spend $50 on average per order.

Afterpay Touch Group caught on quickly with Australian millennials, many of whom abandoned credit cards after the 2008 recession. Founder Nick Molnar was a teenager when the crisis hit and understood intuitively that his contemporaries would approach credit differently from their forebears.

The company charges no interest, instead collecting a fee of as much as 6 per cent of a sale from the retailer. Afterpay works with 20,000 merchants globally - including 1,000 now online in the US where the company has signed up Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie and Free People. Based on its recent monthly performance, Afterpay says it has a global sales run rate of more than $3 billion a year.

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Afterpay is betting American millennials will be just as keen on its service as their Australian counterparts. The company says 65 per cent of the US cohort do not have a credit card, are 30 on average and are intrigued by using instalments to pay for merchandise. Leslie Parrish, a senior analyst at researcher Aite Group, says the simplicity of instalments is at the heart of the appeal. “You know precisely when you’ll pay off that loan,” she says. “That gives you more discipline.”

Affirm issued more than $1 billion in loans last year, and expects to double that this year. Founded in 2012, the company says it works with more than 1,300 merchants including Peloton, Casper mattresses and travel giant Expedia. Affirm charges retailers a fee or consumers interest, which can be as much as 20 per cent. Repeat customers, who have shown they can repay loans, typically pay lower interest. Those who default may be turned away next time.

The upstarts are muscling into consumer finance even as traditional players pull back, citing the specter of rising defaults. Affirm and Afterpay typically approve more than 80 per cent of applicants, compared with about 50 per cent for store credit. Discover, one of the biggest players in consumer finance, has zeroed in on offers from online lenders and warned that they lack the experience to manage through a downturn.

Afterpay and Affirm brush off such concerns, arguing that their technology analyses hundreds of variables, even how fast a person is typing, to determine credit-worthiness.

“Their artificial intelligence and machine-learning algorithms is the secret sauce, allowing them to approve instantly a wider spectrum of borrowers not traditionally pursued by the legacy credit-card issuers,” says Richard Crone, who runs payments researcher Crone Consulting.

The nascent industry is tiny and its proponents say there is plenty of room to grow in the US, where more than half of American consumers have lousy credit and need alternative ways to finance their purchases. Still hurdles are emerging. Despite building a $1.8 billion business, Mr Levchin acknowledges that most shoppers have no idea they are using his company when they choose how to pay at checkout.

“We’ve built this enormous audience,” he says. “But a lot of them still don’t really know that much about us.” To become better known, Affirm in November said it was redesigning its logo and will start listing all the retailers it works with on its website. The company will also step up a focus on travel, letting consumers pay for holidays over time.

Afterpay has come under fire in Australia for late fees ($8 if a borrower misses their second instalment, for example) that made up about a fifth of its revenue in first half of the year. Critics say the practice could hurt consumers’ credit ratings, and the Australian Senate launched an inquiry into buy-now-pay-later businesses. The nation’s securities regulator, meanwhile, has asked lawmakers to tighten lending standards.

So far no such issues have emerged in the US, but consumer watchdogs are already paying attention. “These services were created to facilitate impulse shopping that, for many, jeopardise their ability to afford necessary expenditures and to build needed savings,” says Steve Brobeck, senior fellow at Consumer Federation of America.

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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