Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri may be ensconced in Abu Dhabi city, but the resort harbours a novel means of escape from all the hubbub.
By boarding one of its private abras and rounding the bends of the canal that cuts through the resort, the thrum of modern life is quickly left behind. During my stay, I drift along the waterway imagining myself as an old-world traveller, albeit one aware that they must return to the shores of the 21st century eventually. Those work emails will find me well, just not quite yet.
A sense of tradition and heritage is diffused through the luxurious resort, from the battoulah that adorn the wall behind the check-in desk to the rotary phones by the lifts and the abra rides offered to guests and visitors - a charming feature of the resort in Abu Dhabi city. While today’s tourists can display their bookings on smartphones and pay outstanding charges with little more than a tap, there is strong evidence here that the trappings of decades past have not yet lost their value.
The welcome
This is an expansive resort - in addition to the hotel itself, there are six villas and 161 apartments - but there are intimate touches from the get-go. Front and centre in the lobby, nestled amid a forest of bouquets under a glittering chandelier, there is a complimentary selection of dates and a pot of gahwa. I take a few sips from my finjan and get my bearings, which allows the gaggle of guests at the check-in desk to ebb away.
I find the small crowd retrieving room keys and rolling suitcases to be quite heartening at a time when tension continues to pervade the region. During my stay, the hotel and its restaurants host families from the UAE or wider Gulf - a vignette of the safety felt inside the country and its abiding allure to visitors.
As I finish my gahwa (and privately debate the etiquette of guzzling down another cup) I am invited to head up to the fifth floor to check in from the comfort of my room.
The room
Duly squared away in my Specialty suite, I am struck by how many needs it aims to accommodate. There is a kitchen; a dining area; a lounge; an adjoining space with a writing desk; and an ample bedroom, from which I can either directly enter the bathroom - with separate shower and bathtub - or take the scenic route through the dressing room, complete with vanity mirror. A balcony, bookended by cosy seating, runs along the full length of the 135 square metre room, offering views of the canal and Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.
The decor speaks to the style of the resort at large, with statement pieces of Arabic design found all over. There are framed sections of mashrabiya alongside blue-washed desert scenes, replete with camels, palm trees and ancient abodes. The dark wood of the desk, chairs, side tables and skirting boards whisper to guests about a quiet luxury that has stood the test of time. This resort has been receiving guests since 2007.
There are familiar mod cons - an espresso machine and two flatscreen TVs from which guests can log into their Netflix accounts, for example - but also reminders that we can live comfortably without needing to have everything be so immediate and convenient. There are no standard plug points from which to charge a phone by the side of the bed, but that is no bad thing at a time when people would perhaps do well to unplug. Or, at least, plug their phones in somewhere out of reach to avoid any late-night doomscrolling.
The food
Meals here orbit Sofra Bld, which spans part of the lower floor of the hotel and opens out on to the infinity pool. The restaurant hosts theme dinners during the week including Arabesque Night (Dh238 per person, with drinks costing extra), where dishes are served buffet-style from a menu that traverses the Middle East.
My culinary wanderlust has my plate loaded up with regional favourites such as batata harra, kofta, shish tawouk and - on my final lap of the restaurant - luqaimat. Those whose appetite carries them farther east can dig into the sushi station, decorated with hanging lanterns.
I return to Sofra for breakfast and lunch later in the stay, with new buffet dishes cropping up to ensure variety. The roasted pumpkin soup and tartufata pizza are highlights from the lunch offerings.
Light bites can also be found at the pool bar, where refreshing mocktails (Dh42 a go) are served as the sun descends behind Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, and there is an impressive afternoon tea package available in the lobby lounge until the end of September, starting from Dh175 per person.
Other restaurants well worth a try are Bord Eau by Nicolas Isnard, which has been closed for the summer but is due to reopen in September, and Shang Palace. Having long wrestled with a severe shellfish allergy, Chinese cuisine has been largely uncharted territory for me.
However, a chat with Chef Luo Ming Hui and his team sets my mind at ease and any lingering reticence is washed away by jasmine tea - served by dexterous staff wielding a long-spouted teapot as part of a traditional ceremony - and flavourful sauces.
The Sichuan spicy shredded chicken salad (Dh38), wok-fried crispy tofu with sliced beef (Dh78), Ma Po tofu (Dh68) and steamed chicken soup bao (Dh48) are placed on the table’s lazy Susan. The spinning top is kept in motion as my dining partner and I dig into each dish, but there is a bit of a tug of war to seize the last mouthfuls of the Sichuan salad that is doused in a rich, moreish peanut sauce. The chopsticks are dispensed for spoons to scrape the last of it from the plate.
The last word, muffled by delighted chewing, should go to the traditional roasted Pi Pa duck (Dh98). Slices of the bird are laid out on a plate flanked by a woven basket of steamed bao and a small dish of peanut and plumb sauce. The duck carries a rich flavour that plays well with the sauce and pillowy bao, making it the headline act of the evening.
Spa and wellness
Shangri-La’s on-site R&R is most visible in the infinity pool, which extends to the edge of the creek, and beach access. There is also the health club and Chi, the Spa, which are both a short walk from reception, or a shorter buggy ride. It is the summer, after all.
Chi offers an extensive menu of experiences and treatments to suit whatever time and money you are willing to spend there, from the 30-minute express scrub (Dh350) to the more indulgent Arabian desert escape package, which runs for 240 minutes and costs Dh995.
The neighbourhood
Shangri-La is about 20 minutes from Abu Dhabi’s city centre and just over an hour from Downtown Dubai. That puts the resort within reach, by car or taxi, of the various attractions on Yas Island, as well other tourist sites in the capital.
But its strength is in offering a sense of escape without ever needing to leave the city. It is an enclave of peace and luxury living that ticks the boxes for those seeking a staycation.
The service
After operating for nearly two decades in the capital, Shangri-La knows how to serve its guests. The attentiveness also feels genuine, from offering gahwa to those checking in to helping arrange abra rides. The restaurant staff were also reassuringly confident about catering to different dietary requirements.
The verdict
This is hospitality delivered without the sterility of some more modern hotels around the world. The traditional design elements will feel familiar to those living in the region and the initial welcome is warmly Arab, making the resort ideal for all, and especially Gulf guests and UAE residents on a staycation.
Bottom line
The Specialty suite costs Dh1998 a night, excluding breakfast, taxes and fees, and is suitable for two people. Check in is from 2pm and check out is at 12pm.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future
