It goes without saying that to stand out in Dubai’s crowded fine-dining landscape, a newcomer needs to offer something distinctive. Lion in the Sun, a Mediterranean grill restaurant on the 62nd floor of the Mandarin Oriental Downtown Dubai, makes its mark with a winning combination of impeccable food, intimate vibes, dramatic views and intuitive service.
The concept draws inspiration from the original Lion in the Sun retreat in Malindi, Kenya, developed by Formula One team principal Flavio Briatore and a hot spot for celebrities including Naomi Campbell.
The interior design is understated and African-inspired, with wooden ceilings, ceiling fans and shuttered windows, resembling a comfortable, colonial bungalow rather than a fine-dining restaurant.
First impressions
My husband and I are welcomed by the hostesses on the 61st floor, before we climb a flight of stairs to Lion in the Sun, on the top floor of the luxury hotel.
We are offered the choice of sitting outdoors on Moon Bar Terrace or indoors in the restaurant, which can accommodate 80 diners each. We opt for the latter as it is cold and windy.
Our table in a cosy corner offers views of Burj Khalifa and the open-fire cooking in the kitchen. Our server, Samuel from Italy, meets us with a warm smile.
The restaurant's soft lighting and veranda-like layout make it feel like a beautifully designed home, with traditional African motifs woven subtly through the interior.
The menu
As an amuse-bouche, we are served a bread basket and delicious fried courgette with ricotta cheese.
Among the starters, the Wagyu tacos (Dh110) stand out. They are perfectly balanced and the meat is tender with a deep flavour. The bluefin tuna tartare, served on a base of mashed potato, (Dh120) is satisfying, with the creaminess of the potato grounding the freshness of the fish. The sea bass carpaccio (Dh95) showcases the quality of the seafood, and the fried calamari (Dh100) is light and crisp.
For the main course, I choose the Wagyu rib-eye steak paired with a demi-glace sauce and vegetables (Dh350). It is tender, succulent and tasty. My husband opts for the lighter option of gnocchetti with Mazara prawns and cherry tomatoes (Dh280).
The pacing of the food presentation is well-judged, and portion sizes are satisfying but not oversized.
For dessert, we go with the pistachio flan (Dh70), which is nutty without being overly sweet, and a rich, indulgent chocolate mousse (Dh70).
Standout dish
The Wagyu tacos are an absolute must-order starter – a dish you’ll think about long after the meal. What elevates them is the contrast: soft, tender meat, crunchy taco shells and a tangy glaze of sweet chilli and soy sauce.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Lion in the Sun can cost between Dh250 and Dh1,180. At the high end of the price spectrum are the Lollo Biondo lobster (Dh240), dry-aged Wagyu tomahawk (Dh870), and mixed-berries cream tart (Dh70).
The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are fried calamari (Dh100), Flavio’s penne (Dh90) and sorbet (Dh60).
A chat with the chef
Italian chef Lorenzo Buccarini has been in the UAE for five years and has worked in Indonesia, Turkey, Morocco and South America. He draws on elements of the food culture of every country he’s lived in and incorporates those influences into his cooking in Dubai.
He has worked at restaurants including Zenon at Kempinski Central Avenue, L'Amo Bistro del Mare at Dubai Harbour and Nammos Dubai.
“My philosophy is very simple: food should bring people together. I believe in convivial tables, where people talk, share, eat well and enjoy good drinks and great ingredients. That’s the spirit we want here,” he tells me.
His favourite ingredients are lobster and crab. The restaurant sources lobster from Europe and king crab from Alaska and Russia.
Buccarini recommends Flavio’s penne pasta for vegans and endive salad or pomegranate salad for vegetarians. Health-conscious diners can get the Lion green salad, while seafood lovers must sample the paella, says the chef.
The verdict
I’d revisit Lion in the Sun for the impressive food, attentive service and panoramic views. The restaurant is ideal for date night or a celebration.
The details
Lion in the Sun in Mandarin Oriental Downtown Dubai is open daily from noon to 3pm for lunch and 6pm to midnight for dinner. Reservations can be made by calling 04 565 5811.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
