The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the newest restaurants just before they open their doors, and asks chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here we review five chef-suggested dishes at UK import Tattu by the Permanently Unique Group, which is officially opening on Saturday.
Following from the flagship restaurant, which brothers Adam and Drew Jones launched in Manchester in 2015, Tattu now has outposts in London, Birmingham, Leeds and Edinburgh. In Dubai, the restaurant takes pride of place on level 74 of Ciel Dubai Marina, which is set to become the world’s tallest hotel with reservations now open starting from November 15.
Inside Tattu
The restaurant brand itself has already broken two world records. The three-level space is made up of the main dining space, which I'm reviewing here; Tattu Sky Pool on level 76, home to the world’s highest infinity pool at 310 metres; and Tattu Sky Lounge, which is the world’s highest club on level 81.
To say that all three spaces offer unparalleled views would not be an exaggeration even in this city of superlative panoramas. From Ain Dubai and the yachts berthed at Dubai Harbour to the pleasing expanse of Palm Jumeirah, Tattu – the restaurant, the pool and the lounge – affords a bird’s-eye view of some of Dubai’s most recognisable cityscapes, with the glint from the Arabian Gulf palpable at every turn within the wraparound-style space.
The decor differs among the three concepts in terms of colour and light schemes, seating options and artwork, but is tied together by the idea of the spirit animals so beloved in Chinese culture. “The lounge, which is the crown of the building, is influenced by the phoenix with its central glowing bar and birdcage aesthetic. The pool area is based on the carp fish, so it has aqua tones,” says co-founder Drew Jones.
Chris Sayce, co-founder of Studio WYZE, the design firm behind the interiors of Tattu Dubai, adds: “The main restaurant is inspired by yin and yang dragons, so it has a black and gold theme in the dining room and a white and silver scheme in the waiting and bar area.”
Sitting down alongside Greek chef Eugene Papadimitriou, who has moved from Tattu London to helm the kitchen in Dubai, I tried some of the highlights from the restaurant's menu.
Here are his top five recommendations, including two dishes created exclusively for the emirate.
Red pepper Wagyu
Chef’s take: “Achieving a balance of flavours is at the core of the Tattu menu. It is in keeping with our take on modern Asian cuisine that, to me, means using original Asian ingredients and authentic flavours from the East, but then reworking them to appeal to a more international palate,” says Papadimitriou. “In this dish, for example, we sear Japanese Wagyu to get a bit of caramelisation, the glaze is made using heaty gojuchang chilli paste, while the mellowness of mint breaks it all down.”
Taste test: The first of the made-for-Dubai dishes sets the tone for what’s to follow. While the quality, temperature and presentation of the Wagyu skewers match the standard we’ve come to expect from the city’s big-name chefs and award-winning kitchens, it is the sauce that takes this dish from excellent to exceptional. The tender and caramelised Wagyu chunks are slathered in the charred red pepper glaze that is at once spicy, sweet and utterly moreish.
Sugar salt crispy squid
Chef’s take: “The sweet chilli sauce, which we make in-house, is the highlight of this dish. You’ll see,” is all Papadimitriou chooses to say about this dish.
Taste test: Enough said. As moreish sauces go, the red pepper glaze created for the Wagyu skewers faces stiff competition from the one that accompanies this menu signature. And this is certainly not your bottle-store Thai sweet chilli sauce − notably free of preservatives and made with green chillies instead of red. Despite not being a fan of the deep-fried calamari so often found on UAE menus, I could pop these in until the dip ran dry. Would I order it without the sauce, though? Certainly not.
Seven-spiced seared tuna
Chef’s take: “The creation of this dish, again, comes down to balance,” says Papadimitriou. “The seven-spice mix is balanced with a yuzu-ponzu dip, while caviar gives it a buttery, salty element. This is one of the more popular dishes on the Tattu menu in London.”
Taste test: A far cry from the playful, pub-grub-style squid, this next seafood course is altogether more refined. Think premium tuna flown in from Spain, Osetra caviar and a dollop of delicious truffle aioli – a fool-proof combination that benefits from the chef’s light touch. You can also notch up the heat on this one by consuming the seven-spice-rubbed tuna by itself. If chilli-powder-encrusted fish is not your idea of culinary fun, however, the dish comes with a bordering-on-sweet yuzu ponzu sauce.
King crab leg
Chef’s take: “While balance is top of mind, we also believe in bold flavours. And I most enjoy working with seafood dishes, hence this new-for-Dubai creation: a delicately roasted king crab leg glazed in a fragrant garlic and black bean sauce, finished with crispy garlic for depth and texture. The highlight, though, is the charred lime that you’re meant to squeeze – very generously – over the meat, for a bold yet balanced mix of sweet, savoury and umami flavours,” advises Papadimitriou.
Taste test: The difference in taste between a regular bite and a lime-soaked one is palpable. Paradoxically, the former leads me to believe this is my least favourite dish of the meal, while the latter promptly changes my mind.
Caramel soy-aged beef fillet
Chef’s take: “Here we pair premium Australian beef fillet that is aged for depth of flavour, with an Asian version of a French beurre blanc sauce, a twist that takes in soy sauce and rice vinegar to give it a caramel soy reduction,” explains Papadimitriou.
Taste test: The culinary prowess of the flavourful sauces that dominated the meal comes to a head with this dish. The sweetness from the caramel and saltiness of soy does not overpower the beef (even if you dunk the meat in as generously as I did), but rather complements it with a balance of acidity, umami and sweetness. I was almost tempted to ask for a spoon instead of chopsticks. Next time.
