My two young ones are running riot in the children's club at Shebara, the futuristic-looking five-star resort on Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea coast, while my husband snorkels with a seabob around the area's stunning coral reefs and I enjoy a sunset Hatha yoga session on a pavilion overlooking the ocean.
A few days later, we’re playing with a toy periscope in our private plunge pool that’s carved into a dramatic rock formation in the recently reopened Desert Rock. That evening, we’re gazing through a telescope at the night sky, learning about all the visible constellations and Arabian stargazing traditions.
Over a week exploring Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea mega-project, we find a rare kind of family travel: one where luxury, sustainability and child-friendly experiences go hand in hand.
And while most people might advise you to go during the cooler months, we enjoy all this in the height of summer – so, I’d argue, there’s never a good or bad time to go.
Here's how the journey unfolded for my family of four.
Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Family-friendly highlight: In-villa movie nights
Something to consider: Resort activities are mostly for children aged eight and over
Our journey begins in what is arguably the Red Sea’s most exclusive property. One of seven Ritz-Carlton Reserves around the world, Nujuma epitomises privacy and bespoke service. It sits within the Ummahat Island archipelago, a 45-minute boat ride from the mainland, where more than 100,000 mangrove saplings have been planted to help sustain the teeming marine life ecosystem that calls this paradisiacal area home.
At first, it seems like the perfect destination for adults, but the staff quickly prove that it's very family friendly, as they set about keeping our children entertained every moment we’re there. This includes time in the Ritz Kids club, which is beautifully curated to evoke local history and heritage using storytelling techniques and natural materials, with a programme of activities running throughout the week. There’s also a small splash pad and outdoor playground, and it sits right next to the beachfront family pool where they can jump and scream to their heart’s content.
Every restaurant has a child-friendly menu with a variety of favourites and healthier options, but staff are always ready to create something off-menu for pickier eaters – or simply make eating more fun (case in point: the mini pancakes they whip up for ours with a side of melted chocolate).
One night, as we’re booked in for a late-evening stargazing experience, our guest experience manager offers to watch the kids – and sets up a projector in our two-bedroom villa’s living area, served alongside a big jug of hot chocolate and popcorn. Another day, after I’ve enjoyed a soothing massage at the spa, my therapist invites my elated daughter back the next day for a nail-painting session.
While the youngsters are entertained, there’s plenty for mum and dad to enjoy, from water sports and diving activities to spa treatments and yoga classes. For some family bonding fun, you can also head to the Conservation House to learn more about the property’s marine conservation efforts or dive deeper into Saudi history.
Rates start from $1,866 per night
The St Regis Red Sea Resort
Family-friendly highlight: The villa's large private pools
Something to consider: The outdoor playground is not shaded
A mere seven-minute speedboat ride away is The St Regis Red Sea Resort, a similarly stunning five-star resort. It’s bigger than Nujuma, but feels no less exclusive. And since both properties are owned by Marriott, there’s a consistency of excellent service across the two. This is clear when we forget a couple of things in our Nujuma villa, to find they turn up in our St Regis villa only hours after we arrive.
The children's club here is a little smaller, but still plenty entertaining, with another outdoor splash pad and playground for them to navigate. The friendly staff are happy to take them off our hands while we relax and enjoy iced coffees at the nearby poolside bar.
This is also where the family pool sits, but we do most of our swimming at our two-bedroom, sunset-facing, beachfront villa, which features a sizeable private pool that the kids have a ball splashing about in. After they’re in bed, I also enjoy lounging on a sunbed in the surprisingly temperate summer weather, listening to the waves lapping against the nearby shore.
At Tilina, where we eat our one dinner, the staff are wonderful with our unruly, noisy kids, despite it being a refined steakhouse that floats on a pier above the reef. They also have a children’s menu with all the classics, which goes down well with the little ones, while we enjoy the superb grills and homemade sauces crafted by the warm and welcoming Italian head chef.
All-day dining spot Nesma also whips up an excellent breakfast, with a semi-buffet concept. The staff, again, are wonderful with the kids and even give them mini chef hats to take home as souvenirs.
Rates start from $1,500 per night
Shebara
Family-friendly highlight: The communal family pool is conveniently close to the beach, and the out-of-this-world architecture makes for a memorable stay for little ones
Something to consider: Children two and under need parental supervision at the kids' club
Stainless steels glistens on the horizon as we approach Shebara in a boat direct from St Regis, which takes about 30 minutes. These futuristic, spaceship-style beachfront and overwater villas are like nothing we’ve seen – and the kids are excited as soon as they spot them (my five-year-old daughter hasn’t stopped talking about the “space rockets” since we left).
Shebara is undeniably unique – a bucket-list property for any luxury resort lover, with incredibly attentive staff – but what makes it really stand out is the fact it has something for everyone. For example, sophisticated beach club vibes reminiscent of Dubai or Ibiza can be found by the adults-only pool, where sea-facing Solera serves inventive mocktails amid elegant interiors.
Foodies will love the restaurants, particularly Japanese hot spot Iki.Roe, which serves delicious Nikkei cuisine expertly prepared in the open kitchen (there is also a children's menu with options such as chicken nuggets and grilled salmon, depending on how adventurous your little ones are with their palates).
For the little ones, the children's club is beautifully designed in natural materials, filled with wooden educational toys to fill their cups. It’s worth noting you can’t leave children two or under here alone, but for older kids there are activities throughout the day, a TV and PlayStation, and an outdoor splash pad and playground where they can also fly kites.
Nearby sits the family pool, with swish Oliver James floaties. Steps away is Wama for water sports – mums and dads can try seabobs, e-foiling, catamaran sailing and more, plus there’s kayaking for the whole family (weather-permitting). Meanwhile, Galaxea Diving Centre offers snorkelling and scuba diving.
Then there’s the gorgeous spa, with its treatment rooms, wet facilities, hammam and outdoor vitality room. The spa is a must for parents while the children are entertained elsewhere. I also recommend booking yourself in for the sunset yoga experience, which takes place in an outdoor pavilion by the sea.
Rates start from $2,400 per night
Desert Rock
Family-friendly highlight: The vast kids' club and mini electric vehicles
Something to consider: More elevated villas with lots of steps might not be suitable for toddlers
Tastes might be subjective, but, for me, I believe we saved the best until last, as Desert Rock wows on every level. This is the only inland property we visit on this occasion, although we’ve previously stayed at Six Senses Southern Dunes, another luxury haven with activities for the whole family.
No detail is too small for Desert Rock, where anyone, from the youngest family member to the oldest, is bound to be impressed not only by the dramatic setting – since it’s carved into unique rock formations – but also the service, which manages to be warm and friendly but superbly professional.
We stay in a two-bedroom villa at the highest point of the resort. The team furnishes it with everything we need as a family of four, from pool toys to giant Jenga and even baby equipment, including a bottle warmer, nappy bin and child-sized bathrobe. It would be easy to spend the entire time in the incredible accommodation, but there’s so much to experience on site, including adventurous activities such as abseiling, e-biking and ziplining. Some come at an additional cost, but there’s also a huge range of activities included in the room rate, from desert tennis to stargazing and Saudi cuisine cooking classes.
The children's club here is fantastic. Impressive enough for our two to barely acknowledge us leaving, when usually they’d cry as we go. The interiors are stunning and the range of games on offer is vast. Then there’s a shaded outdoor play area and little electronic vehicles for the older tykes to ride around in.
I escape to the spa while the kids are entertained, where I take part in a yoga class led by an expert instructor, who helps me do my first-ever headstand and makes it seem easy in the process. This is followed by a 60-minute Moonlight Meteorite massage.
Later, while the children are still busy in the children's club, my husband and I immerse ourselves in the musical side of Desert Rock inside the Listening Room, where we handpick some vintage records to listen to on the high-tech Bang & Olufsen speakers, while we recline in comfortable leather chairs.
Meanwhile, mealtimes are made simple thanks to attentive staff who distract our hungry monkeys with their favourite foods from the children's menus and we sample some seriously delicious food, including modern Indian dishes at Basalt and innovative Turkish fusion flavours at beautiful Nyra. Mocktails and juice on Mica’s rooftop while watching the sun set behind the mountains rounds off a superlative family adventure in the Red Sea.
Rates start from $1,866
