Fashion is a barometer of our collective moods and 2024 has delivered plenty of jolting moments. From Artists4Ceasfire protests at the Oscars to doll-like models in porcelain make-up at the Maison Margiela show in January, the year has offered many occasions that hold up a mirror and let us take a long, hard look at ourselves and our priorities.
Each time, one message that came through – no matter what else is happening around us, there is a kind of joy in allowing yourself to enjoy the moment and sink into fashion's extravagance. Just look at Elie Saab, who was able to celebrate his illustrious career, while striking an empathic note about the situation back home in Lebanon. There is a lesson there for all of us – embrace the beauty we are surrounded by. Here are some of the moments that stayed with us from the year.
January: A first at Gucci and a haute couture moment
Sabato De Sarno delivered his first ready-to-wear men's collection for Gucci, while in haute couture, the astonishing beauty of the collections tipped into a cultural moment at Maison Margiela, where designer John Galliano and make-up artist Pat McGrath sent out models wrapped in corsets, layers of deshabille tulle and glassy, glossy skin. A vision of imperfect perfection, it was as if Galliano had remade men and women as dolls, and as they wove unsteadily through the venue, it was a glimpse into a beautiful, yet dystopian future.
February: Zendaya in a suit of armour
While no stranger to making bold fashion statements, Zendaya's stylist Law Roach raised the bar again for the premiere of Dune: Part Two in London, when he dressed the actress in a vintage metal suit of armour. Made by Thierry Mugler for his haute couture autumn/winter 1995 show, it was custom fitted to the model who wore it. However, just as Kim Kardashian managed to squeeze herself into Marilyn Monroe's Happy Birthday Mr President dress at the 2022 Met Gala, so Zendaya somehow poured herself into this metal armature. No doubt heavy, uncomfortable and impossible to move in, she made quite an impression on the red carpet.
March: The Oscars and bidding farewell to Iris Apfel
In March, we lost New Yorks's famous style figure Iris Apfel, while in a surprise move, ex-Gucci designer Alessandro Michele was named as the new creative director at Valentino, ousting Pierpaolo Piccioli, who had led the brand for a quarter century. Dries Van Noten stepped away from his eponymous brand and Beyonce leant into cowboy styling with the release of her Cowboy Carter album. At the Oscars, actor Ryan Gosling wore head-to-toe pink Gucci to perform a song from Barbie, while actress Ava DuVernay accessorised her Louis Vuitton gown with a badge protesting against the war in Gaza.
April: The Mango collaboration we didn't know we needed
High/low collaborations are almost the norm these days, yet there was something about Victoria Beckham teaming up with Mango that felt like a validation. Panned for her sartorial choices during her Spice Girls days, Beckham has fought long and hard to be taken seriously as a voice in fashion. When this collection hit stores, it drew legitimate criticism for tiny sizing, but the clothes were truly chic, cheap high street fabrics aside. As if finally proving her merit, Beckham delivered the collab we never knew we needed.
May: Kim Kardashian at the Met Gala
The annual Met Gala can be relied upon to supply over-the-top outfits, and it did not disappoint this year either. Gigi Hadid arrived in a black-and-white gown by Thom Browne that seemed to be made of an exploded man's jacket, while Cardi B wore a gigantic swirl of black net by Windowsen. Nicole Kidman looked like a fairy princess in black-and-white Balenciaga and Kim Kardashian brought the house down in a tightly corseted metal dress by Maison Margiela.
June: Naomi Campbell celebrated at the V&A
London's Victoria & Albert Museum opened its Naomi: In Fashion exhibition, in celebration of British model Naomi Campbell, who has become one of the most famous models in the world during her 25-year career. Campbell has become a regular visitor to the Middle East in recent years, walking the runway at Dubai Fashion Week in 2023 and attending a slew of events in Saudi Arabia.
July: Paris Olympics style and the Ambani wedding
The two-week sporting event may have started in the pouring rain, but that hardly dampened the mood. Team Mongolia was hailed for wearing striking hand-embroidered uniforms inspired by historic Mongolian clothing, created by sisters Michel and Amazonka Choigaalaa, under their brand Michel & Amazonka. While Turkish pistol shooter Yusuf Dikec channelled unfazed energy in everyday glasses and one hand in his jeans pocket. Snoop Dogg stole the world's heart by cheering on seemingly every event and dancing, in full dressage gear, with a paddock full of horses. Fittingly, Dior dressed Celine Dion for the opening ceremony in shimmering silver.
Also in July was the impossibly lavish six day wedding of Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant in India. Notable for its impressive guest list, which included the Kardashians and Mark Zuckerberg, as well as a performance by Justin Bieber, among other high profile names. The groom's mother, Nita Ambani, was seen decked out in jaw-dropping jewels, while the couple wore some truly extravagant looks through the week, including fully embroidered ensembles by Indian couturier Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla. For the final day, the bride wore a sari by Anamika Khanna with a filigree corset by Dolce & Gabbana.
August: Lady Gaga goes for drama in Venice
The Venice Film Festival drew a huge crowd to gawp at the stars, and of course Lady Gaga rose to the occasion. For the premiere for Joker: Folie a Deux the singer arrived wearing a dramatic Christian Dior Haute Couture ballgown, Tiffany & Co diamonds and a striking black lace Philip Treacy headpiece. From Treacy's 2001 collection, the head piece was also worn by the late stylist Isabella Blow, who is credited with discovering designer Alexander McQueen.
September: Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week and Oasis spark a run on parka jackets
Roberto Cavalli was the guest of honour at Dubai Fashion Week and drew the busy event to a rip-roaring close with its runway collection. In the United Kingdom, news that Oasis will reunite sparked a frenzy for tickets, parka jackets and bucket hats, while ex-McQueen designer Sarah Burton was named as the new head at Givenchy.
October: A cultural shift at Riyadh Fashion Week and star-studded runways in Europe
Saudi brand Hindamme hit the zeitgeist at Riyadh Fashion Week, when it sent a T-shirt emblazoned with the words "Saudi Arabia is the future" down its runway on the final day of Riyadh Fashion Week. Modelled by cousins Mishaal and Taleedah Tamer, who walked arm in arm, this felt like a significant moment in Saudi fashion history.
Also in October, Hedi Slimane left the French brand Celine after seven years, while over in Paris, Miu Miu had actor Willem Dafoe walk its spring/summer 2025 runway. Not to be outdone, Vetements called on Travis Scott to open its show, while Chanel had singer and actress Riley Keough (and granddaughter of Elvis Presley) perched in a cage, above its runway, singing Prince song When Doves Cry as the brand returned to the Grand Palais for the first time in four years. Coperni, meanwhile, closed out the week by staging its show at Disneyland Paris.
November: Elie Saab celebrates in Riyadh
Lebanese designer Elie Saab celebrated 45 years in fashion by throwing a lavish show and party in Saudi Arabia called 1001 Seasons of Elie Saab. Celebrities, performers and press from around the world were flown into Riyadh to witness a specially created collection. Attended by Celine Dion, Halle Berry, Jennifer Lopez, and Nancy Ajram, it was a glittering event and showed why Saab is so beloved by red carpet stars.
December: Matthieu Blazy joins Chanel
Ending months of speculation, in mid-December, Chanel finally announced Matthieu Blazy as its next creative director, taking over from Virginie Viard, who quit in June after five years. To fill the gap at Bottega Veneta left by Blazy's departure, Louise Trotter has been handed the reins. She had previously been at Carven. In another shock move, John Galliano announced he was leaving Maison Margiela after 10 years. After speculation that fashion was losing its thrill, as brands chased after a middle ground to maximise sales, recent movement has made things feel young, spirited and exciting again.
