• A fan of Brazil outside the Lusail Stadium in Lusail, before his team played Serbia. PA
    A fan of Brazil outside the Lusail Stadium in Lusail, before his team played Serbia. PA
  • A Japan fan in buoyant mood ahead of the World Cup Qatar 2022 Group E match at the Khalifa International Stadium, Doha. PA
    A Japan fan in buoyant mood ahead of the World Cup Qatar 2022 Group E match at the Khalifa International Stadium, Doha. PA
  • A Costa Rica fan in the stands before the Group E match against Spain at the Al Thumama Stadium in Doha. AP Photo
    A Costa Rica fan in the stands before the Group E match against Spain at the Al Thumama Stadium in Doha. AP Photo
  • Saudi Arabia fans celebrate after their team defeated Argentina 2-1 in a Group C match at Lusail Stadium, Lusail. PA
    Saudi Arabia fans celebrate after their team defeated Argentina 2-1 in a Group C match at Lusail Stadium, Lusail. PA
  • A young Qatar fan ahead of the host nation's World Cup opening match against Ecuador at Al Bayt Stadium in Al Khor. EPA
    A young Qatar fan ahead of the host nation's World Cup opening match against Ecuador at Al Bayt Stadium in Al Khor. EPA
  • Senegal fans provide choreographed support during their team's Group A match against the Netherlands at Al Thumama Stadium in Doha. EPA
    Senegal fans provide choreographed support during their team's Group A match against the Netherlands at Al Thumama Stadium in Doha. EPA
  • A South Korea fan ahead of her country's Group H game against Uruguay at the Education City Stadium in Al Rayyan, north-west of Doha. AFP
    A South Korea fan ahead of her country's Group H game against Uruguay at the Education City Stadium in Al Rayyan, north-west of Doha. AFP
  • A masked US in the stands before the Group B football match between US and Wales at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium in Umm Al Afaei, west of Doha. AFP
    A masked US in the stands before the Group B football match between US and Wales at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium in Umm Al Afaei, west of Doha. AFP
  • An Argentina fan wearing a Diego Maradona mask ahead of the Group C match between the two-time World Cup winners and Saudi Arabia at Lusail Stadium, Lusail. PA
    An Argentina fan wearing a Diego Maradona mask ahead of the Group C match between the two-time World Cup winners and Saudi Arabia at Lusail Stadium, Lusail. PA
  • Ghana fans enjoy the pre-match atmosphere ahead of their team's Group H clash with Portugal at Stadium 974, in Ras Bu Abboud, east of central Doha Getty Images
    Ghana fans enjoy the pre-match atmosphere ahead of their team's Group H clash with Portugal at Stadium 974, in Ras Bu Abboud, east of central Doha Getty Images
  • Canadian fans in exuberant mood before their team take on Belgium in a Group F match at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium. Getty Images
    Canadian fans in exuberant mood before their team take on Belgium in a Group F match at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium. Getty Images
  • A Mexico fan flies the flag at the Corniche in Doha. Reuters
    A Mexico fan flies the flag at the Corniche in Doha. Reuters
  • A Brazil fan with a replica of the World Cup trophy. Reuters
    A Brazil fan with a replica of the World Cup trophy. Reuters
  • Costa Rica fans before the match against Spain. Reuters
    Costa Rica fans before the match against Spain. Reuters
  • Brazil fans — including a lookalike of Brazilian legend Ronaldo — pose with a replica of the World Cup trophy at Flag Plaza in Doha. AFP
    Brazil fans — including a lookalike of Brazilian legend Ronaldo — pose with a replica of the World Cup trophy at Flag Plaza in Doha. AFP
  • A South Korea fan waits for the start of the Group H match against Uruguay. AP Photo
    A South Korea fan waits for the start of the Group H match against Uruguay. AP Photo
  • Mexico fans get some musical accompaniment for their Group C match against Poland at Stadium 947, Ras Bu Abboud, east of central Doha. EPA
    Mexico fans get some musical accompaniment for their Group C match against Poland at Stadium 947, Ras Bu Abboud, east of central Doha. EPA
  • A fan sports some prickly headgear ahead of the Group G clash between Switzerland and Cameroon, at Al Janoub Stadium in Al Wakrah. AP Photo
    A fan sports some prickly headgear ahead of the Group G clash between Switzerland and Cameroon, at Al Janoub Stadium in Al Wakrah. AP Photo
  • A Cameroon fan ahead of the Group G game against Switzerland. EPA
    A Cameroon fan ahead of the Group G game against Switzerland. EPA

Exhausting and exhilarating: Passion of fans made my first World Cup unforgettable


Sarah Forster
  • English
  • Arabic

An unprecedented winter World Cup gracing the Middle East for the first time was always going to be a leap into uncharted territory.

Well before a football was even kicked in Doha, there were concerns that this might not even feel like a World Cup at all.

Of course there would be state-of-the-art stadiums, a plethora of superstar players and no shortage of on-pitch drama.

But what about the fans? Would the intrepid travellers who provide the vibrant colour and atmosphere of any international tournament turn up in large numbers and make this a sporting spectacle to remember?

My experience on the ground was that fans were genuinely having a good time and excited to be at a tournament brought to a new part of the world.

Politics aside, whenever I got chatting to anyone in a team shirt, the overall sentiment was the same.

“Yeah it’s all right, actually, had no problems so far.”

Perhaps people were expecting the police presence to be much higher than it was, providing an air of tension and intimidation, but there really was nothing like that.

Of course there was security going into stadiums and fan zones, and maybe it could have been handled a little smoother, but I couldn’t see it being a flawless system in many countries.

While sitting in the fan village I got talking to a few people staying in the portacabins, and again it was the organisation that caused some frustration, not the local laws or customs.

Sure, many will have been unhappy with the dry nature of the camp, but it was no great surprise.

This may be a first World Cup in the Middle East, but fans were not too fussed about the geography. They were here for the football.

Fans bring Doha to life

Showpiece events such as the World Cup or the Olympics see people of all backgrounds and nationalities brought together by a love of sport.

It was no different in Qatar — and there was no shortage of quirky characters on display.

Outside Lusail Stadium, one woman from Argentina, draped in her national flag and clutching a replica trophy, told me how she had travelled alone to the tournament, and that her family had been saving up for five years to allow her to make the trip.

  • Senegal supporters cheer during the Qatar 2022 World Cup Group A football match against the Netherlands at the Al Thumama Stadium near Doha. AFP
    Senegal supporters cheer during the Qatar 2022 World Cup Group A football match against the Netherlands at the Al Thumama Stadium near Doha. AFP
  • This Iranian fan can't watch as England hammered his country's team 6-2. Bloomberg
    This Iranian fan can't watch as England hammered his country's team 6-2. Bloomberg
  • Iran supporters make a point before the match with England at Khalifa International Stadium in Doha. EPA
    Iran supporters make a point before the match with England at Khalifa International Stadium in Doha. EPA
  • England fans en route to the game against Iran. EPA
    England fans en route to the game against Iran. EPA
  • England fans ... or is it Harry Kane and Jordan Pickford? Getty Images
    England fans ... or is it Harry Kane and Jordan Pickford? Getty Images
  • Party time for Qatar supporters before the opening World Cup match against Ecuador at Al Bayt Stadium in Al Khor, north of Doha. The high spirits fizzled out as Qatar lost 2-0. AFP
    Party time for Qatar supporters before the opening World Cup match against Ecuador at Al Bayt Stadium in Al Khor, north of Doha. The high spirits fizzled out as Qatar lost 2-0. AFP
  • These Ecuador fans are dreaming big. AFP
    These Ecuador fans are dreaming big. AFP
  • USA supporters wave the stars and stripes before playing Wales, at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium in Umm Al Afaei, a match that was drawn 1-1. AP
    USA supporters wave the stars and stripes before playing Wales, at the Ahmad bin Ali Stadium in Umm Al Afaei, a match that was drawn 1-1. AP
  • Wales fans show their support during the match against the USA at Ahmad bin Ali Stadium. Getty Images
    Wales fans show their support during the match against the USA at Ahmad bin Ali Stadium. Getty Images
  • Even this Diego Maradona mask could have been left red-faced after Argentina succumbed 2-1 to Saudi Arabia in a shock result in Lusail. AFP
    Even this Diego Maradona mask could have been left red-faced after Argentina succumbed 2-1 to Saudi Arabia in a shock result in Lusail. AFP
  • Argentina's supporters cheer before the start of the Group C football match against Saudi Arabia. AFP
    Argentina's supporters cheer before the start of the Group C football match against Saudi Arabia. AFP
  • Saudi Arabia fans celebrate their team's victory over Argentina. AFP
    Saudi Arabia fans celebrate their team's victory over Argentina. AFP
  • Many Saudi Arabia fans couldn't believe their historic win over Argentina. AFP
    Many Saudi Arabia fans couldn't believe their historic win over Argentina. AFP
  • Masked Mexican supporters arrive for the World Cup match against Poland at Stadium 974. AFP
    Masked Mexican supporters arrive for the World Cup match against Poland at Stadium 974. AFP
  • A France supporter holds a mock rooster in the run-up to the match against Australia at Al Janoub Stadium. AFP
    A France supporter holds a mock rooster in the run-up to the match against Australia at Al Janoub Stadium. AFP
  • People dance at an official US football fan party at the Budweiser World Club in Doha. AP
    People dance at an official US football fan party at the Budweiser World Club in Doha. AP
  • A fan waves the Brazilian national flag in Doha, during the opening day of the Qatar 2022 World Cup. AFP
    A fan waves the Brazilian national flag in Doha, during the opening day of the Qatar 2022 World Cup. AFP
  • Fans watch the opening match on Doha Corniche. Getty Images
    Fans watch the opening match on Doha Corniche. Getty Images
  • Eyes fixed on the screen at Doha Corniche. Getty Images
    Eyes fixed on the screen at Doha Corniche. Getty Images
  • A young football fan on the Doha Corniche. Getty Images
    A young football fan on the Doha Corniche. Getty Images
  • An Argentina fan in triumphant pose before the opening match between Qatar and Ecuador. Getty Images
    An Argentina fan in triumphant pose before the opening match between Qatar and Ecuador. Getty Images
  • Fans watch at Doha Corniche. Getty Images
    Fans watch at Doha Corniche. Getty Images
  • Football fans meet La'eeb, the Qatar World Cup mascot, at the Lusail Boulevard fan area. La'eeb is an Arabic word for a hotshot footballer. Getty Images
    Football fans meet La'eeb, the Qatar World Cup mascot, at the Lusail Boulevard fan area. La'eeb is an Arabic word for a hotshot footballer. Getty Images
  • Football fans in Argentina colours at the Lusail Boulevard fan area. Getty
    Football fans in Argentina colours at the Lusail Boulevard fan area. Getty
  • Qatar fans make the Souq Waqif marketplace in Doha their own before the 2022 World Cup kicks off. AFP
    Qatar fans make the Souq Waqif marketplace in Doha their own before the 2022 World Cup kicks off. AFP
  • Crowd control by Qatari police officers at the Fifa fan zone in Doha. AP
    Crowd control by Qatari police officers at the Fifa fan zone in Doha. AP
  • Celebration party time at the Fifa World Cup 2022 Qatar fan festival in Al Bidda Park, Doha. Getty
    Celebration party time at the Fifa World Cup 2022 Qatar fan festival in Al Bidda Park, Doha. Getty
  • Fans at the opening of the Fifa fan festival. Reuters
    Fans at the opening of the Fifa fan festival. Reuters
  • A young Brazil fan at the Souq Waqif marketplace in Doha. AFP
    A young Brazil fan at the Souq Waqif marketplace in Doha. AFP
  • Saudi Arabia fans arrive in Qatar for the Fifa World Cup. Reuters
    Saudi Arabia fans arrive in Qatar for the Fifa World Cup. Reuters
  • Good to be here: a Mexico fan arrives in Qatar. Reuters
    Good to be here: a Mexico fan arrives in Qatar. Reuters
  • Fan wears an image of Argentina's Lionel Messi close to his heart. Reuters
    Fan wears an image of Argentina's Lionel Messi close to his heart. Reuters
  • A low-key Mexico fan brings a replica World Cup to Qatar. Reuters
    A low-key Mexico fan brings a replica World Cup to Qatar. Reuters
  • Brazil fans gather outside the Westin Doha Hotel & Spa in Doha to welcome their team to Qatar. AFP
    Brazil fans gather outside the Westin Doha Hotel & Spa in Doha to welcome their team to Qatar. AFP
  • Many people attend the Fifa fan festival opening day at Al Bidda Park in Doha. AFP
    Many people attend the Fifa fan festival opening day at Al Bidda Park in Doha. AFP
  • Many people attend the Fifa fan festival opening day at Al Bidda Park in Doha. AFP
    Many people attend the Fifa fan festival opening day at Al Bidda Park in Doha. AFP
  • A young fan at Souq Waqif ahead of the World Cup in Doha, Qatar. Reuters
    A young fan at Souq Waqif ahead of the World Cup in Doha, Qatar. Reuters

At a fan village, a red-haired man in a Boston cap named Pablo, who was born in Mexico and spoke fluent Spanish, told me about how he couldn’t afford to save much but what he did had gone towards funding this trip.

On the subject of Spanish speakers, there were thousands of them, many without good English. If I were to have personally given organisers any advice, it would have been to cater to the fans of six teams all of which speak Spanish as a first language. It was a comment made to me by more than one South American fan in the few days I was there.

Elsewhere on a bus some Welsh fans from Wrexham shrugged their shoulders when asked if they’d had any problems so far, and a couple of Canadians waiting outside a fan festival suggested more water vendors would probably have been a good idea.

But the odd moan and groan was not a sign of deeper disgruntlement.

On song on the metro

The activity on the metro at night was something Doha will likely never see again. Fans banging drums and chanting national songs on the trains, audible from the platform for a few seconds when the doors opened, seemed to lift the spirits of everyone.

Only on that first sleepy Sunday when I boarded a train with rowdy Ecuadorians did an attendant ask if I wanted to move to another carriage. From the second day onwards it wouldn’t have made a difference.

Even the men working on the platform managing crowd flow were amazed at what they were seeing. One decked out in a high-vis vest told me the scenes were “incredible” as he directed passengers towards the right exit.

Outside shopping malls and on streets, international fans came together to sing and dance.

My favourite moment was a casual passing fist bump between a Japan and a Germany fan, both decked out in team colours, in a busy nearby mall after Japan's shock win. This was the beautiful game shown in its best light.

A low point was definitely sitting on the metro during a game thanks to the lack of seating outside the stadium or in the metro station.

The whole experience was infectious and, although I had never been to a World Cup before, I enjoyed every exhausting moment of my visit.

The bio

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Updated: November 30, 2022, 3:00 AM