Inside Ryba, the Emirati restaurant now part of Michelin Guide Abu Dhabi

Led by chef Faisal Al Harmoodi, the Zayed Port eatery brings seafood, stews and spices found in local households to the international stage

Faisal Al Harmoodi is the first Emirati chef to receive the Michelin Bib Gourmand award for his restaurant, Ryba. Chris Whiteoak / The National

As an Emirati, I have grown up on seafood, which always held a special place on the dining table at my family home. From freshly caught hammour to delicately spiced jasheed, each dish tells a story of our connection to the sea. It’s fitting, then, that chef Faisal Al Harmoodi chose the name Ryba for his Abu Dhabi restaurant, which opened its doors in October 2023.

“Ryba means fish in Russian and is a word that reflects the international touch I wanted to bring,” the chef tells me. Located near the fish market in Zayed Port, Ryba is Al Harmoodi's tribute to Emirati ingredients with a global twist.

The story behind Ryba

The chef's pride in his heritage is evident not only in the menu, but also by way of his appearance. While he dons a traditional chef’s uniform, he pairs this with an Emirati ghutra, a subtle but powerful nod to his roots. “This is about showcasing Emirati hospitality and proving that our chefs can compete on an international stage,” he says.

Indeed, the restaurant was recognised by the foremost authority on all things food, the Michelin Guide, when it included Ryba in its Bib Gourmand category at a recent ceremony in Abu Dhabi as well as naming it the Opening of the Year.

Ryba’s interior mirrors its maritime theme, from sand-inspired floors to wavelike plates. Even the chandeliers pay homage to gargoor, or traditional fish traps. But for Al Harmoodi, it’s about more than aesthetics.

Ryba is located at Zayed Port in Abu Dhabi. Chris Whiteoak / The National

Chef Al Harmoodi's culinary journey began at the age of 11. While being dictated recipes by his mother, who was unwell and relied on a wheelchair for mobility, young Faisal eventually took on the role of cooking for his family. “That’s where my love for cooking started,” he says.

After completing degrees in mechanical and logistics engineering, Al Harmoodi decided to further his passion for food. He trained at a culinary school in Dubai and gained experience at Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, working alongside renowned international chefs. Today, with two cafes – Lets and Oosh – and a fine dining restaurant under his belt, Al Harmoodi is on a mission to elevate Emirati cuisine to global prominence.

Dishes to try

Heirloom baby beets with local chammy cheese and Emirati honey. Chris Whiteoak / The National

The menu at Ryba is a testament to Al Harmoodi’s dedication to shining a spotlight on Emirati flavours even while appealing to an international palate. The baby beetroot salad (Dh65), for instance, swaps the typical feta or cottage cheese with chammy, plus labneh “to give it an Emirati twist”, says the chef. “Chammy is a traditional soft cheese with a rich, slightly tangy flavour that pairs beautifully with the earthy beets. We also incorporated Emirati honey, sourced locally from a farm in Al Ain, which adds a delicate sweetness and depth to the dish.”

From the first bite itself, the earthy sweetness of the beets is beautifully offset by the tangy labneh and chammy, complemented by the subtle sweetness of honey and satisfying crunch of black sesame.

Next, I sample the Ryba soup (Dh75). “This soup draws inspiration from Emirati saloona or stew, but incorporates Thai lemon grass for a refreshing twist,” the chef explains. “We replace traditional stock with a vegetable saloona base, enriched with Emirati spices and dried lime.”

Ryba seafood soup with Thai spices and Emirati saloona stock. Chris Whiteoak / The National

The seafood soup – with poached blue crab, mussels and calamari – is like a warm, flavourful hug in a bowl. A sense of familiarity hits me as I sip the broth; it makes me feel like I am 14 again, sitting in my grandmother's kitchen and savouring the hearty saloona she'd often make. It’s comfort food, reimagined.

Daqoos, a spicy tomato-based sauce found in every Emirati household that adds a burst of heat and flavour to traditional dishes, is part of Raby's jasheed bites (Dh55). “This dish was inspired by Italian arancini,” says Al Hamoodi. “I wanted to take saffron rice and fill it with the shark meat and Emirati staples such as daqoos and dried lime.” The tender and spiced shark meat filling aside, the crispy, golden bites also benefit from a creamy saffron mayo.

I can smell the baked oysters (Dh35) before they arrive at the table, owing to its rosemary aroma inspired by Emirati bukhoor. The smoky, herbaceous aroma fills the room, instantly drawing attention, while the oysters too are locally sourced, from Dibba Bay, then baked with bechamel sauce and topped with a chive crumble.

Baked oysters – Dibba Bay Oysters with bechamel sauce, topped with a chive crumble – by Emirati chef Faisal Al Harmoodi. Chris Whiteoak / The National

The oysters themselves are rich in flavour and incredibly smooth. The natural brininess of the meat is complemented by the creamy bechamel, while a chive crumble adds a delightful crunch all tied together by the smoky rosemary, making this a truly memorable appetiser.

The main event is an opulent lobster biryani, which is tasty but relatively pricey at Dh225. “All Emiratis love biryani – it’s a staple dish in every household,” says chef Al Harmoodi. “The dish is prepared in an Indian way, but we use spices also found in Emirati homes, such as turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and cloves.”

The sweetness of the lobster plays beautifully against the fragrant, spiced rice and roasted nuts, with a garlic-infused yoghurt sauce providing a refreshing contrast. Served in a lobster shell, this biryani is a luxurious take on a beloved classic, both in terms of flavour and presentation.

For something a little less expensive but no less extravagant, the Ryba sea bass (Dh150) is worth a try. It is a dish filled with spices blended fresh for the restaurant by the chef's aunt, then marinated with dill, ginger and tamarind, and cooked with fresh Emirati ghee from Al Ain.

Lobster biryani and Ryba seabass are pricy but tasty. Chris Whiteoak / The National

Grilled over coal, the fish develops a smoky char that enhances its natural flavours. The Emirati ghee adds a subtle nuttiness, while the blend of spices delivers a punch of flavour, making each bite absolutely delicious.

Ryba is located at 31 Al Marabi Street, Zayed Port, Al Mina, Abu Dhabi, and is open daily from noon to midnight. For bookings, call 02 584 5645