Our Arabic word of the week, kohl, refers to a fine, dark powder applied around the eyes – but its meaning stretches far beyond an eyeliner. It carries with it a long history of beauty, protection and cultural continuity across the Arab world.
Traditionally made from ground minerals such as galena, kohl has been used for thousands of years. Its origins are often traced to Ancient Egypt, where it was worn by men, women and children. While it accentuated the eyes, it was also believed to shield them from the sun’s glare and desert dust, and to guard against infection.
Its use remains widespread across the Middle East, North Africa and parts of South Asia. In many countries, kohl is applied as a cosmetic and for its perceived medicinal properties. It is still applied to infants in some communities, believed to strengthen the eyes or protect against irritation, although modern medical advice on this practice varies.
Language reflects this dual purpose. The root of the word, kaaf – haa – lam, is associated with clarity and definition, a fitting link to how kohl sharpens the outline of the eye. In Arabic poetry, kohl-lined eyes are often used as a shorthand for beauty and intensity, suggesting both allure and presence.
This metaphorical weight is captured in a line by Ibn Darraj Al-Qastalli, a prominent poet of 10th and 11th centuries in Al-Andalus. In one of his poems, he says: “When the sky is lined with the kohl of darkness, the eyes are lined by long nights of sleeplessness.” The verse draws a parallel between a darkened sky and eyes marked not by adornment, but by fatigue, shifting kohl from decoration to a symbol of endurance and emotional depth.
Beyond aesthetics, kohl is embedded in social practice. It features in weddings and festive occasions, where its application forms part of a broader ritual of adornment that connects the present to inherited customs.
Today, kohl’s influence is visible in the global beauty industry, but its meaning remains anchored closer to home. Across the region, it continues to move between the practical and the symbolic, from daily ritual to poetic metaphor. Few objects trace such a clear line between heritage and habit, held in place by something as simple as the outline of the eye.
