I recently checked into a retreat that came to me at a time when I needed a mental break. It was a space so tranquil that even the sound of my own voice sounded like noise. While it may have felt far from the madding crowd, it was just about a three-hour flight away from the UAE, with a 30-minute drive from the airport in Calicut, Kerala.
The retreat in question, Tulah, is a wellness space that blends traditional Ayurvedic therapies with modern medicine, offering healing by bringing together the best of both worlds.
Before I visit
A few days before I fly to Kerala, I have a video call with the in-house doctor at Tulah, to discuss my concerns, medication, sleeping patterns, mental and physical well-being, food habits and lifestyle.
Based on that information, it is concluded that I need weight management and detox, and the schedule for my visit is planned accordingly. I also fill out a questionnaire about my habits, which is discussed at check-out.
I am sent a concise list of things to bring: gymwear, swimwear and comfortable shoes. A link to the Tulah app follows, along with a WhatsApp group created with some of the hosts for easy communication ahead of my arrival.
The welcome and the room
I land in Calicut at about 3am, where Tulah staff are waiting to pick me up. A 30-minute car ride later, we reach the retreat, where I am offered a small snack and a much-needed glass of cold coconut water before being shown to my room.
It is roomy and serene, with wooden accents, soft beige-and-white furnishings, and plenty of natural light. A little bar houses teas organised by the time of day you should drink them, while cupboards contain the linen tunic and pants that guests can wear during their stay
While there are charging ports in the room, none are located by the plush, cosy bed, ensuring guests get a break from their devices in the minutes before sleeping and after waking up.
The bathroom has separate toilet and shower cubicles, dual sinks and toiletries in refillable containers.
The wellness experience
The first day primarily consists of consultations with the Ayurvedic and modern medicine doctors, as well as a nutritionist and a physiotherapist.
The Ayurvedic consultation is new to me. Through questions about the texture of my hair and skin, sleeping patterns, appetite, digestion, mood, emotions and decision-making, my prakriti – or unique mind-body constitution – is determined. The doctor explains my analysis and identifies an imbalance that needs to be tackled.
The medical doctor chats to me about my clinical history; the physiotherapist discusses my aches and pains; and the nutritionist notes my likes and dislikes and creates a meal plan for my stay.
The consultations are followed by several tests, including fasting blood tests, a body composition analysis, a cardiopulmonary exercise test, a bone mineral density scan and a CT calcium score.
My schedule, which I refer to on the app every day, features a mix of treatments for my physical and mental well-being, alongside sessions common to all guests.
The morning ritual is a great way to start the day, with chanting and breathing exercises followed by a morning movement flow. I also sign up for padel lessons – and attempting to play during the famous Kerala monsoons in pouring rain is an experience in itself.
The session I look forward to most each day is the hour-long sound journey at the custom-built Sonorium, which houses gongs and instruments that mimic the sounds of thunder, rain, waves and waterfalls. It's deeply meditative and relaxing, and lives up to its “sound healing” promise.
For physical wellness, one of the most challenging but fruitful sessions is clinical yoga. The in-house expert designs a series of asanas to help fix my posture and even though I have done yoga in the past, these are far more challenging and include props. The team also shows me how to do them at home, offering alternatives to the props used in the studio.
Personal training sessions draw on the results of my body composition tests. I appreciate how challenging they are, particularly the exercises designed to improve my body balance, which, in my case, is embarrassingly abysmal.
The Udwarthana Ayurvedic massage is another first for me – a deep-tissue massage done not with oil but with a blend of herbal powders. Abhyanga, a traditional Ayurvedic massage using warm oils, promotes good sleep and relaxation.
Shirodhara is another highlight – an Ayurvedic treatment involving a continuous flow of warm oil poured over the forehead that also helps relieve stress and calm the mind.
Between the massages, I stay disconnected from my phone for most of the day and instead enjoy the tranquil surroundings of Tulah, which only adds to my incredibly restorative five-day experience. And while I usually have trouble sleeping, that isn’t the case here at all.
On the last day, the doctors sit down with me to explain my test results and Tulah score, which also takes into account my pre-arrival questionnaire. They offer suggestions on how to remedy any issues, alongside practical tips for improving my lifestyle and increasing longevity.
The food
All meals are served at the Conservatory, a bright open space with glass panels from floor to ceiling and across the roof. No phones are allowed here – guests deposit their devices at the entrance so they can eat their meals mindfully.
The menu features a mix of Indian, Asian, Mediterranean and Arabic cuisines, and changes seasonally. Many of the fruits, herbs and vegetables are grown on the 15-hectare property in a space called the Healing Garden.
Before my visit, I had been preparing myself for a few days of bland food. I was pleasantly surprised to find every meal was packed with flavour, from ragi dosa with spicy sambhar for breakfast to Goan-style chicken cafreal with grilled vegetables for lunch and a millet falafel wrap or smoked chicken burger for dinner.
The meals come in controlled portions and are balanced, with the nutritionist offering two options at every meal, alongside a salad or soup.
There is also an a la carte menu featuring fresh juices, chia puddings, smoothies, soups, salads and seasonal entrees, as well as a snack bar stocked throughout the day with healthy bites such as turmeric-ginger cookies, millet mixtures, fruits and herbal teas.
The verdict
While this isn’t my first trip to a wellness retreat, it is certainly a unique one.
From trying several treatments for the first time to attending sessions that feel genuinely enriching and meditative, Tulah offers an all-round, body-and-mind experience that leaves me feeling rejuvenated, at peace and aware of how much I still need to do regarding my physical fitness.
Being away from my phone for most of the day feels odd, but it is also refreshing not to be constantly connected. I enjoy taking in the green surroundings or simply walking around the property in my spare time.
The follow-up
The journey continues after checking out. When they leave, guests can switch the app to the At Home setting, giving them access to reports from the tests conducted during their stay. There is also a guide with healthy recipes to help continue on the wellness path.
The bottom line
Wellness journeys start from $1,600, with no fixed or standard programme pricing, as each guest's journey is individually designed and priced. This four-night clinical journey is approximately $8,000 excluding taxes. Check-in is at 2pm and check-out is at noon. For more information, visit tulah.life.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the wellness centre and reflects its standards at this time. Services may change in future
