Driving 260 kilometres, at night-time, after a long work week, with running commentary from a loquacious six-year-old in the backseat is not exactly my ideal way to kick-start a relaxing staycation.
But as Aldhafra Resort (the erstwhile Tilal Liwa hotel), at the edge of Rub’ al-Khali, finally looms into sight, I remind myself that we have the next 40-odd hours to unwind. And we do just that in the rustic setting of Abu Dhabi’s magnificent Liwa Desert, bolstered by mod-con luxuries evident at each turn.
The property was recently initiated into the IHG Vignette Collection, a label that aims to operate “one-of-a-kind hotels that inspire authentic encounters”.
The welcome
The authenticity is most obvious in the hotel’s blend of warm Arabian hospitality and Islamic geometry motifs. An expansive reception area is studded with mashrabiya latticework, fanoos-style lighting and large decorative urns.
We are led along a corridor studded with Kashan carpet tapestries and cutesy camel portraiture to an antechamber that resembles a majlis and serves as a discrete check-in counter. Given the late hour, the formalities take no more than 10 minutes, nearly half of which are spent signing up for the various activities on offer from the next morning.
A quick but delicious dinner is wolfed down before Al Badiya restaurant shuts shop at 10pm, and we follow a warren of alleyways, past a giant outdoor chessboard, to our room on the ground level.
The room
The king suite is a generously appointed space at 65 square metres, with dual balconies that both grant direct access to the swimming pool.
The Arabesque touches of the lobby are also evident here, with wooden wall hangings, fanoos ceiling lamps and cushions patterned with Al Sadu embroidery. The controls for the lighting, curtains and air conditioning are refreshingly straightforward, and the room is dotted with plenty of storage cabinets, mirrors and a swanky coffee machine.
A large sofa bed that can easily sleep two, on a mattress as plush as the one in the bedroom – a far cry from the typical uncomfortably segmented half-beds – is a game-changer for my family of three. That, and en-suite bathrooms in both the master and living rooms.
Toiletries come courtesy of LaGaia Unedited, an Australian brand known for its pH-balanced skincare and potent botanical combinations, such as grapefruit-orange, lavender-ginger, and cedarwood.
Breakfast scene
A glocal influence is also evident at Al Badiya’s breakfast buffet, where eggplant mutabal, dates in sesame paste, zaatar-cheese manakeesh and six types of honey sit alongside Asian fried rice, Indian channa masala, American hash browns and European waffles.
You can order eggs your way, or pick and mix ingredients at a DIY station that is stocked with muesli, bran bars, cornflakes, coco pops, sunflower seeds, raisins, walnuts and roasted almonds, plus creamy milk and various flavours of yoghurt.
A standard selection of fruits, breads and cheeses aside, I appreciate that the veggie counter has a mix of both fresh as well as caramelised carrots, smoked cauliflower and herb-roasted bell pepper and baby marrow.
For something sweet, I bypass the waffles and pancakes in favour of a flavourful coconut chia pudding, another healthy and tasty highlight.
The food
Offering a la carte and buffet options for lunch and dinner, Al Badiya serves a melting pot of cuisines. Of the appetisers we sample, highlights include: a creamy wild mushroom and truffle oil broth; Akkawi cheese sambousek; and an innovative take on garlic-butter prawns, served here with smoked paprika and kimchi sauce.
Mains are a good mix of Indian, Arabic, Asian, and Continental cuisines, with standout dishes such as red gram dal tadka, umami-rich stir-fried noodles and fragrant Thai green curry.
The child is handed her own menu, and is impressed enough with the beef sliders and marshmallow chocolate brownie to work her way through them for all main meals.
Hotel facilities
The entirety of the 105-room property – from the entrance to the infinity pool and the desert beyond – can be taken in at a single glance, which lends it a cosy, accessible vibe.
For all of that, though, there are numerous nooks teeming with activities.
Families with children are well served. There are shaded outdoor and air-conditioned indoor play areas, offering opportunities for jumping, sliding, drawing and climbing.
A dedicated majlis offers a trio of interactive undertakings: henna application after a conscientious patch-test; clay pottery on a child-friendly wheel; and sand art that can be tailored to include names, plus motifs such as camels, birds and the setting desert sun, making for a personalised souvenir.
The palm-tree-lined pool looks directly on to the dunes of the Empty Quarter. It’s fitted out with underwater benches and an archway that provides shade for swimmers looking to avoid an intense summer tan.
In the desert, you can try your skills at archery and sandboarding, or take a brief camel ride. The hotel grounds are dotted with outdoor ping pong, billiards and foosball tables. A 24/7 sauna and fitness centre is on site, while a spa is also in the works and expected to open at the end of this year.
Grown-ups can grab a shisha on Al Badiya terrace, or a drink at the rugged-chic Layali Bar that’s done up in opulent but comforting mahogany-hued leather.
Highs and lows
Being more of a night owl than an early bird – at least when on holiday – I wish the swimming pool were open for a couple of hours beyond 7pm.
Ambling through the star-studded desert at our doorstep did, however, make up for it after-hours.
Insider tip
A pool-facing room on the ground floor is apt for early risers and water babies, but one farther away is best if you prefer a bit of quiet in the morning.
The verdict
If you fancy a road trip, rolled into a subsidised summer staycation, in a heritage property, nestled at the edge of a cinematic desert, look no further.
Bottom line
Aldhafra Resort, Vignette Collection by IHG, has two packages ongoing until September. The Dinner on Us promotion entitles those who have booked bed and breakfast to get a complimentary meal for each night of their stay. The GCC Residents Offer entails a 30 per cent discount on the best available rate and Dh150 cashback to spend during your stay. Tariffs begin from Dh600 over the summer, while peak season rates go up to Dh3,000 per night.
The resort, at Madinat Zayed in Liwa, is a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi and three hours from Dubai. Check-in is from 3pm, check-out is at noon.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects standards during this time. Services may change in future
