One does not simply go on holiday to New Zealand. It’s about as remote as it gets.
A direct flight on Emirates airline from Dubai to Auckland is over 17 hours. It’s the longest non-stop flight offered by the carrier, and at its launch in 2016, was the longest route in the world.
I was eight when The Fellowship of the Ring, Peter Jackson’s film adaptation of the first of JRR Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings trilogy, was released. It left an eternal mark.
It wasn’t just the storytelling that had me mesmerised. It was the setting – the mountains, the landscapes, the rivers and vast forests. When I realised it was filmed in New Zealand, I had to go. I didn’t know when, I didn’t know how, but I knew I had to.
Earlier this year, I finally did.
The North Island tour
The journey from Dubai to Auckland is brutal. New Zealand’s time zone is eight hours ahead, meaning I leave DXB at 11am only to land on the other side of the planet shortly after noon the next day. It’s disorientating.
My travel companion and I arrive more jet-lagged than either of us can ever remember being. But, hey, we’re here, and that’s what matters.
It’s a relatively low-key affair on day one. We try a brief fact-finding mission in the city’s central business district and head for dinner at Trivet, in the JW Marriott, and are rewarded with amazing oysters and seafood.
We roll out of bed far too early on day two and head down to Auckland Harbour to catch a ferry to Waiheke Island, a top recommendation.
It's spectacular in every sense. The boat trip is about 30 minutes and offers lovely views, and Waiheke itself is basically an island of wealth and vineyards.
We enjoy it in glorious sunshine, and I realise the true meaning behind New Zealand’s famously high UV index here. The risk of sunburn is real, but as long as you’re careful, it’s like seeing the world in HD.
The road trip truly gets going on the morning of day three, as we pick up a car at a rental depot outside Auckland Airport at 10am.
The drive itself adds to the experience as seeing the open road takes us into Tolkien’s world for the first time. We turn corners and both gasp in amazement at the views confronting us. Perhaps predictably, we also see many a rugby pitch.
The roads are big and well-maintained, while the driving culture is safe and unaggressive. Having a car also affords the freedom and flexibility to stop and explore on impulse.
The city of Hamilton is our first stop, followed by lunch at the picturesque town of Cambridge. Then it’s time for the tourist location I’ve dreamt about for as long as I can remember: Hobbiton.
Even the 60-minute drive from Cambridge channels Tolkien’s pages, with the hills and greenery reminiscent of the routes taken by Bilbo, Frodo and co.
We get there and it’s magical. We walk through the Shire, which is far more than a film set; it’s still a working farm with more than 4,000 sheep on site … just with hobbit houses cut out into the landscape.
Our knowledgeable tour guide is even related to one of the Maori actors from the films, and we finish with a pie in the Green Dragon pub made famous by the stories.
It’s surreal to actually be here, and I’ll take the memories with me forever.
With the sun setting, we start on the hour-and-a-half journey to Rotorua, where we’re stopping for the night.
The city is home to Pohutu Geyser, which erupts several times a day and is incredible to witness up close. On day four, we tour the Maori village there, residents of which still bathe in the geothermal waters as their ancestors did centuries ago.
We also try hangi, a traditional cooking method in which food is steamed in an underground pit that harnesses the geothermal heat to act as a natural microwave oven. It’s a dish of steamed beef and vegetables, so not the most glamorous lunch of all time, but a memorable experience.
Stomachs full, we jump in the car and drive to the incredibly beautiful Lake Taupo, which is just over an hour away.
It’s a haven for watersport enthusiasts and the waterfront is lined with restaurants and bars. Clear skies mean we can even see the next big landmark from the Tolkien universe: Mount Ngauruhoe, the peak used in The Lord of the Rings as the site of Mount Doom.
Day five takes us to another hobbit-themed landmark: Huka Falls. We can hear the roaring water before we see it, and when we do, it’s a beautiful crystal blue that’s breathtaking to behold.
It’s the site chosen by Jackson to film an escape scene featuring Bilbo Baggins and his dwarf companions in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug.
From there, we start the two-hour drive to New Zealand’s east coast. Travelling through the Hawke’s Bay region, we pass valleys, vineyards, waterfalls and lush greenery as far as the eye can see. The region's coastal city Napier was flattened by an earthquake in 1931, and during the rebuilding, town planners took the opportunity to redesign the city with an Art Deco look.
Today, it’s a distinct and ornate location with varied architecture and different colours that make it feel like you’re walking through a Monopoly board. Add to that the gorgeous views across the Pacific and it becomes quite the spectacle.
Our four-hour journey from Napier to Wellington on day six is the longest drive of the holiday. Before leaving, we head to Cape Kidnappers and take in magnificent views over the Pacific.
The site is steeped in history, and named after the story from Captain James Cook’s crew that a group of Maori attempted to kidnap one of the British naval hero’s companions there in 1769.
Next it’s the long drive south to the capital. This trip has another Lord of the Rings stop-off point: Kaitoke Regional Park, the filming location for Rivendell in Jackson’s adaptation.
Intent on exploring Wellington by foot for a day and a half, we drop off the car knowing we won’t be driving again until reaching South Island.
The Wellington waterfront overlooks Cook Strait while Mount Victoria looms large over the urban landscape. There’s also the Basin Reserve cricket ground in a prime location near the airport, a nod to the country's sporting culture.
We spend the day wandering the city streets, trying to take it all in, and break it up with a trip to Te Papa Museum, with the exhibits on Maori history proving particularly compelling.
In the evening we venture to Leeds Street, known as a hub for foodies and art enthusiasts, and meet an old friend from school for dinner.
Wellington is cool and fun, and it feels like it has a younger crowd than much of New Zealand. It reminds me of Manchester, for a European comparison. It’s a city that’s edgy with character, charm, history and attitude. Our day here is the perfect conclusion to the North Island tour.
The South Island tour
On day eight, we catch the ferry from Wellington to Picton, the beautiful port town on the north coast of South Island.
The four-hour ferry seems a far more appealing option than a short flight because the journey itself is stunning.
The opening scene to Jackson’s King Kong was filmed in Cook Strait, and the approach into Picton gives a real sense that you’re arriving at a world that until recently had escaped humanity’s influence.
From Picton, we make our way towards Nelson in what becomes a glorious two-hour drive where we’re flanked by a national park before arrival for a quiet dinner.
Already it’s clear that South Island is beautiful and magical, making it an obvious choice for the filming of so many scenes from the Tolkien universe.
After an early start on day nine, we pick up our second hire car at Nelson Airport before making our way to the lakes. While they aren’t specifically a feature in The Lord of the Rings, their aesthetic is very much in keeping with that world.
Lake Rotoiti is the highlight, particularly with the towering presence of Mount Robert on the skyline. Here, we’re greeted by a bed of New Zealand longfin eels gathering near a jetty in St Arnaud. They’re native to this area, protected, and often live to reach over 100 years. It’s quite endearing watching them swarm and feast.
Next, it’s a three-hour drive towards Pancake Rocks. We’re treated with views across the Tasman Sea that wouldn’t be out of place in Jurassic Park.
The rocks themselves are a coastal formation on the island’s west coast, with blowholes that showcase the ocean's incredible power. We stop for well over an hour to explore and take it all in.
Our bed for the night is in Greymouth, a 40-minute drive away. The largest town on the west coast, it’s a good location with plenty of accommodation and dining options.
Day 10 takes us to the Franz Josef Glacier, stopping at Hokitika Gorge en route. We’re met by grey clouds but it’s still magnificent with views of Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak, looming large. From there, it’s two hours towards the glacial village of Franz Josef where we stop for the night.
On day 11, we embark on a four-hour drive towards Wanaka, a town overlooking the lake that shares its name. We take the route via the Haast Pass within Mount Aspiring National Park to cross the Southern Alps.
We’re treated to stunning mountain views, beautiful rainforests, and waterfalls galore, and stop on multiple occasions for endless photo opportunities. The Blue Pools, in particular, offer pure Tolkien vibes.
Wanaka itself is a small resort town popular in both summer and winter, with myriad outdoor adventure activities available. The views over Lake Wanaka are gorgeous, and no visit is complete without a look at the Wanaka Tree before heading into town for a bite to eat.
Our last big stop, on day 12, is Queenstown. It’s about an hour’s drive from Wanaka, but before we settle in the town itself, we head to nearby Glenorchy for our final tribute to The Lord of the Rings.
It’s here you can find the Isengard Lookout, a key location in Tolkien’s fictional world. While the tower in the story is not here of course, the familiar scenery and surroundings evoke a strong sense of nostalgia.
Back in Queenstown, we head out to enjoy the fantastic nightlife, with its myriad bars and restaurants. Thrill-seekers will also be spoilt for choice here. It is, after all, where bungee jumping first became famous.
They say 13 is an unlucky number and, for us, that proves to be true because it’s the day we say goodbye to this majestic country.
But considering it lived up to my lifelong dreams after hogging the top spot on my travel bucket list for so long, I leave satisfied and vindicated. That is not to say I wouldn't love to go back, and recommend it to all and sundry in the meanwhile.
Price point
- Return economy flights on Emirates from Dubai to Auckland are in the region of Dh7,000.
- We rented two cars, one in North Island for five days, the other in South Island for four. With insurance included, the cost was just under Dh2,000, plus about Dh800 for petrol.
- We spent Dh3,000 on food and drink each, and Dh6,000 on accommodation.
- A comfortable mid-range 12-day trip costs between Dh16,000 and Dh24,000, while a luxury trip could start at Dh30,000 and go up to Dh60,000.
