The Maldives may have cornered the market for private-island getaways, but for travellers who prefer their turquoise seas paired with jungle-backed beaches, soaring granite boulders and a sense of wilderness, Seychelles is the main contender.
The island of Mahe rises dramatically from the ocean, its interior a tangle of spice gardens, misty peaks and rainforest, with beaches that vary from coves where you can snorkel off the sand to bays that stay calm year-round and jungle-framed crescents that feel like hidden sanctuaries.
It’s in one of these coves, Petite Anse on the island’s south-west coast, that Four Seasons Resort Seychelles has quietly held its ground for 16 years. The five-star property has just emerged from a round of updates, refreshing its beachfront suites and unveiling an eight-bedroom villa aimed at multi-generational families and groups of friends.
The National checks in to see whether the service and setting continue to deliver.
The welcome
The 30-minute transfer from Mahe airport is short but scenic, climbing into the hills past cinnamon groves heavy with spice, roadside stalls stacked with pawpaws, bananas and the occasional breadfruit, and glimpses of the Indian Ocean glinting between the trees.
The final descent into Petite Anse is the big reveal: the road dips steeply through thick vegetation before the bay spreads out below, a perfect crescent of white sand framed by granite boulders. From the beach, you’d never suspect that 67 villas are hidden in the canopy, threaded among the cinnamon and takamaka trees.
Staff greet you with warm Seychellois smiles, an icy towel and fresh tropical juice, before whisking you away by buggy. Check-in takes place in the privacy of your villa – no reception desks here – where staff give a quick orientation and introduce the Four Seasons Chat concierge system that becomes your on-call link for everything from buggy rides to sunset dinner reservations.
The room
Our hillside villa was as impressive inside as it was out, with design focusing on natural materials – polished teak floors, high timbered ceilings and louvre shutters that invite in the breeze. Wide sliding glass doors open directly on to a private plunge pool, with a deck that seems to float above the canopy. From here, the view sweeps across the bay: layers of jungle tumbling into turquoise water and, on clear days, the faint outline of distant islets on the horizon.
The bathroom is a highlight in itself. A deep stone soaking tub sits beside floor-to-ceiling windows, perfectly angled towards the ocean, while a generous rain shower extends outdoors so you can choose between open-air bathing or a cool, air-conditioned retreat.
The resort’s top accommodation takes things a step further. The Three-Bedroom Royal Suite was recently refreshed with a private gym and a much larger outdoor dining pavilion, while the Three-Bedroom Presidential Suite has been enlarged, gaining a fourth bedroom and multiple open-air pavilions, with direct beach access that is almost unheard of on Mahe.
This year, the resort debuted its showpiece: the Eight-Bedroom Residence Villa, spread across three tiers with two infinity pools, three kitchens and capacity for up to 20 guests. It feels less like a villa and more like a private compound within the resort, designed for large family gatherings or groups of friends who want privacy without sacrificing service.
The food
Open-air restaurant Kannel sits just steps from the beach, shaded by palms and catching the salt breeze. The menu runs from light salads and wood-fired pizzas to local Creole staples. The octopus curry with rice is a standout – rich, fragrant and easily one of the best I’ve had anywhere in the islands.
In the evenings, Koi is the most intimate of the resort’s venues, a tucked-away Japanese dining room open most nights. It has just a handful of counter seats and a concise menu: impeccably fresh sushi and sashimi, crisp tempura and must-order yellowtail carpaccio with yuzu. For couples, this is the restaurant to book.
Kannel Bar, beside the pool, is the place for a late-afternoon tacos or a sharing platter of prawns and lobster straight from the grill. It’s also where you’ll find most families, thanks to a relaxed menu and staff who are happy to adjust spice levels or split dishes for children. I found myself stopping here almost daily for a cold drink and quick plate after the beach.
Hotel facilities
Most days revolve around Petite Anse bay. Non-motorised water sports are included – snorkelling, paddleboarding, kayaking – and the in-house marine team organises guided swims and reef talks. We borrowed paddleboards most mornings, then lazed under umbrellas on the sand.
Snorkelling is especially rewarding here. The bay is ringed by the granite boulders that Seychelles is famous for, and beneath the surface, they create a natural playground of swim-throughs and sheltered pockets for wildlife. Coral gardens cling to the rocks, where you’ll spot bright parrotfish, angelfish and the occasional turtle grazing in the shallows.
Visibility is usually best in the morning, when the water is calm and the light catches the reef. For guests new to snorkelling, the marine team can guide you to the gentler spots near the beach, while more confident swimmers can explore the rocky outcrops at either end of the cove.
Spa and wellness
Le Syel Spa crowns the resort at its highest point, with eight treatment pavilions – the views alone are worth the steep trip up. I tried the Drift Away massage, which makes use of a heady blend of Mediterranean essential oils including frankincense, lavender and patchouli. The therapist was outstanding, and even offered tailored stretching tips afterwards.
Yoga sessions take place at sunrise and sunset, and visiting practitioners offer reiki, nutrition consultations and sound healing.
Family-friendly factor
Villas are large enough for families to spread out, and every restaurant has a children’s menu. The Kids For All Seasons club is one of the best in the region, with indoor play spaces and shaded outdoor areas.
Accessibility and sustainability
The resort sits on a steep hillside, so may not be best suited to wheelchair users, but a buggy service is available across the property.
Since 2015, the resort has worked with marine biologists on the Petite Anse Reef Restoration Project, which has transplanted more than 16,000 coral fragments and aims to restore 10,000 square metres of reef. Guests are invited to join coral-grafting workshops, and the project is backed by Green Globe and Seychelles Sustainable Tourism Label certifications.
The service
Service here is exactly what you’d expect from Four Seasons: polished, warm and quietly intuitive. Many of the staff are Seychellois and have been with the property since it opened 16 years ago, which shows. From the first evening, they remembered our names and preferences, and it stayed consistent throughout the stay. Buggies arrived within minutes of a chat request, whether we were heading down to the beach or up to the spa at the top of the hill.
Value for money
Rates start from €1,875 ($2,200) per night for an Ocean View Villa, including breakfast. Check-in time is 3pm, and checkout is 12pm.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future
