Boulevard Riyadh has become a family hub during Ramadan. Saeed Saeed / The National
Boulevard Riyadh has become a family hub during Ramadan. Saeed Saeed / The National
Boulevard Riyadh has become a family hub during Ramadan. Saeed Saeed / The National
Boulevard Riyadh has become a family hub during Ramadan. Saeed Saeed / The National

A soulful Ramadan evening in Riyadh: from iftar tents to a walk in the park


Saeed Saeed
  • English
  • Arabic

The Riyadh Season festival may be over, but celebrations still abound in the Saudi Arabian capital.

With the pandemic forcing families and colleagues to experience Ramadan largely indoors for the past two years, the recent easing of health and movement restrictions across the kingdom has restored the pulsating social atmosphere associated with the holy month.

Spending a weekend in the city, I realise Riyadh has bounced back to its pre-Covid-19 rhythm without missing a beat. Mosques and iftar tents are open again to the masses, the malls and parks are full, while the evening traffic on King Abdullah Road is as heavy as ever.

One of the many bottlenecks in the city’s main arterial road flares up around sunset each night of Ramadan, as cars from both directions approach the business and leisure hub, the Kingdom Centre.

At more than 302 metres, not only is it one of the tallest skyscrapers in the world, but the building is home to what has become a lavish Ramadan institution.

Ramadan Tent at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh. Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh
Ramadan Tent at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh. Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh

Located within Kingdom Ballroom, the Ramadan tent at Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh is one of the hottest tickets in the city when it comes to family and corporate bookings. It is another sold-out affair when I arrive on Friday, with all 1,700 tickets snapped up days in advance, according to the hotel concierge.

It is not hard to understand why. To say the tent is luxurious is an understatement.

A seemingly endless number of gilded chandeliers shine down on an opulent setting where diners sit on ornately decorated chairs and couches, many of which come with their own flat screen television sets screening the latest Ramadan dramas.

In the middle of the hall are countless food stations serving everything from Saudi staples such as kabsa (aromatic rice with roast chicken) and saleeg (a rice cooked in a cream and milky broth and topped with chunks of tender beef), to a wide array of Italian pastas, Indian curries and Moroccan stews.

Each table comes with a number of Arabic dips and starter dishes, as well as a pot full of piping hot Saudi gahwa.

Overseeing the 170 staff working the room and cooking stations is the director of banquets Mouhsine Elkoutari.

While the tent is the place to be seen, the Moroccan says the air of exclusivity is undercut by a sense of genuine joy.

“It very much feels like a reunion and from what I have been seeing here every day is that people just want to connect with each other again,” he says. "Our tent is the most famous in Riyadh and people look forward to coming here. But this time I feel that what we are doing is not being the star of the show. We are providing that atmosphere for people to sit down together, break bread, talk and look at each other’s faces.

"It sounds simple to say this but considering what happened over the last few years, this is really important.”

Walking it off

With no suhoor service to follow, we are ushered out of the tent before 9pm and I join the sea of traffic on King Abdullah Road for a 16 kilometre-ride that takes nearly 50 minutes.

It is instructive, however, as driver Akhtar Hussain, a 20-year Riyadh resident from Bangladesh, explains the ebb and flow of the traffic.

“Basically in Ramadan, there are two difficult times on the road. The hour before breaking the fast and from 9pm until 3am. This is when people are on the move,” he says. “So right now people are going out to see friends or do some shopping.”

With Eid approaching at the end of the week, Hussain says a lot of the older shopping centres such as Taibah Markets and Al Oweis Mall, both located off the main road, are getting heavy traffic due to their ample supply of the latest kanduras and abayas.

After all that lavish eating, I am looking for a place to burn off those calories.

I disembark outside one of the many gates of Boulevard Riyadh, a 900,000-square-metre leisure district forming the centrepiece of Riyadh Season, a five-month city-wide entertainment and cultural festival that ended in March.

Where Boulevard Riyadh hosted everything from pop concerts and award shows to E-gaming competitions, during Ramadan, it functions as an open-air park with thousands walking across its nine distinctly designed zones — from shopping and music to sports — and sampling its countless restaurants and cafes.

Wasif and Dianne Khan at Boulevard Riyadh. Saeed Saeed / The National
Wasif and Dianne Khan at Boulevard Riyadh. Saeed Saeed / The National

I spot Pakistani businessman Wasif Khan and his Indonesian wife Dianne at the Takenda Zone, a futuristic space drenched in blue neon lights, featuring arcades and street art. At its centre is a large rotating globe beaming various graphics.

With free entry to Riyadh Boulevard throughout Ramadan — largely owing to the lack of concerts and events taking place within the site during the time — the site takes on a family-friendly vibe.

“This is the first time we came here because I am not so interested in the concerts,” Dianne says. “We were recommended to come here as it is a good place to exercise. With Ramadan falling before the real summer begins, you are seeing a lot of people taking the opportunity to be outside and walking.”

A meaningful exchange

After notching up 7km and working up a decent sweat, I needed an icy gulp of cold brew coffee. I hail a taxi and make the 30-minute trip to what I was told is the most happening coffee spot in the city.

The popularity of Arabica Riyadh Roastery, in the upscale Hittin District, was evident from the dozens and dozens of people queuing up outside its doors.

While the Japanese coffee brand has 11 locations across the UAE and is available across the GCC, the Riyadh outlet is easily the region's flagship. Spread across two levels and featuring a sleek minimal white design, it resembles a futuristic coffee shop made by tech company Apple.

Majed Abdullah and Mishal Riad at Arabica Riyadh Roastery. Saeed Saeed / The National
Majed Abdullah and Mishal Riad at Arabica Riyadh Roastery. Saeed Saeed / The National

With a 40-minute waiting time, I spend the early hours of the night chatting with some young Saudis about their Ramadan experience.

“Riyadh really is becoming the centre for Saudi youth culture,” says Majed Abdullah, a university student from Dammam, a coastal city in the kingdom’s Eastern Province. “And during Ramadan it is all about catching up and trying new places, like the latest coffee shops, and just talking and laughing.”

Fellow student Mishal Riad, who lives in Riyadh, says there is another reason why cafes are popular during Ramadan.

“Checking out the latest restaurants is not something we do in Ramadan as it's mostly about inviting people to each other’s homes rather than going out. It’s about making that extra effort because going out to eat is easy,” he says.

“But once we do that and share a meal together, we then go out to the coffee shop and just talk all night. It feels for me like it is sincere doing that way. Ramadan is great in that it teaches us a lot about what really matters.”

Scroll through the gallery to see what it feels like to visit Global Village late at night:

  • Global Village in Dubai will remain open throughout Ramadan. All photos: Chris Whiteoak / The National
    Global Village in Dubai will remain open throughout Ramadan. All photos: Chris Whiteoak / The National
  • The family-friendly attraction hosts Ramadan Nights, an iftar and suhoor experience at the Majlis of the World.
    The family-friendly attraction hosts Ramadan Nights, an iftar and suhoor experience at the Majlis of the World.
  • A toddler enjoys herself at the annual event, which is marking its silver jubilee edition.
    A toddler enjoys herself at the annual event, which is marking its silver jubilee edition.
  • Ramadan decorations have enhanced the grandeur of Global Village.
    Ramadan decorations have enhanced the grandeur of Global Village.
  • Moutyaa Al Chayah, a cook from Baalbek, Lebanon, bakes manakeesh.
    Moutyaa Al Chayah, a cook from Baalbek, Lebanon, bakes manakeesh.
  • Global Village also offers delicious food options.
    Global Village also offers delicious food options.
  • Friends gather for iftar.
    Friends gather for iftar.
  • Luqaimat is also a favourite among those breaking the fast.
    Luqaimat is also a favourite among those breaking the fast.
  • Queue builds up in front of a Turkish ice cream outlet.
    Queue builds up in front of a Turkish ice cream outlet.
  • It's prayer time at Global Village.
    It's prayer time at Global Village.
  • The traditional cannon fire marking the end of the day's fast is quite a spectacle.
    The traditional cannon fire marking the end of the day's fast is quite a spectacle.
  • Food is cooked on the floating market.
    Food is cooked on the floating market.
  • A musician plays oud at the Majlis of the World.
    A musician plays oud at the Majlis of the World.
  • Global Village hosts more than 3,500 shopping outlets.
    Global Village hosts more than 3,500 shopping outlets.
  • An impromptu iftar gathering at Global Village.
    An impromptu iftar gathering at Global Village.
  • The Majlis of the World has been put up exclusively for Ramadan.
    The Majlis of the World has been put up exclusively for Ramadan.
  • The majlis hosts traditional entertainment such as live music.
    The majlis hosts traditional entertainment such as live music.
  • Ramadan decorations at the Syria pavilion.
    Ramadan decorations at the Syria pavilion.
  • Opening hours have been changed to accommodate guests over iftar and suhoor.
    Opening hours have been changed to accommodate guests over iftar and suhoor.

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

Fixtures

Friday Leganes v Alaves, 10.15pm; Valencia v Las Palmas, 12.15am

Saturday Celta Vigo v Real Sociedad, 8.15pm; Girona v Atletico Madrid, 10.15pm; Sevilla v Espanyol, 12.15am

Sunday Athletic Bilbao v Getafe, 8.15am; Barcelona v Real Betis, 10.15pm; Deportivo v Real Madrid, 12.15am

Monday Levante v Villarreal, 10.15pm; Malaga v Eibar, midnight

Charlotte Gainsbourg

Rest

(Because Music)

JOKE'S%20ON%20YOU
%3Cp%3EGoogle%20wasn't%20new%20to%20busting%20out%20April%20Fool's%20jokes%3A%20before%20the%20Gmail%20%22prank%22%2C%20it%20tricked%20users%20with%20%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fmentalplex%2F%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Emind-reading%20MentalPlex%20responses%3C%2Fa%3E%20and%20said%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fpigeonrank%2F%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3E%20well-fed%20pigeons%20were%20running%20its%20search%20engine%20operations%3C%2Fa%3E%20.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EIn%20subsequent%20years%2C%20they%20announced%20home%20internet%20services%20through%20your%20toilet%20with%20its%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Ftisp%2Finstall.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Epatented%20GFlush%20system%3C%2Fa%3E%22%2C%20made%20us%20believe%20the%20Moon's%20surface%20was%20made%20of%20cheese%20and%20unveiled%20a%20dating%20service%20in%20which%20they%20called%20founders%20Sergey%20Brin%20and%20Larry%20Page%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Farchive.google%2Fromance%2Fpress.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3EStanford%20PhD%20wannabes%3C%2Fa%3E%20%22.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EBut%20Gmail%20was%20all%20too%20real%2C%20purportedly%20inspired%20by%20one%20%E2%80%93%20a%20single%20%E2%80%93%20Google%20user%20complaining%20about%20the%20%22poor%20quality%20of%20existing%20email%20services%22%20and%20born%20%22%3Ca%20href%3D%22https%3A%2F%2Fgooglepress.blogspot.com%2F2004%2F04%2Fgoogle-gets-message-launches-gmail.html%22%20target%3D%22_blank%22%3Emillions%20of%20M%26amp%3BMs%20later%3C%2Fa%3E%22.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
HWJN
%3Cp%3EDirector%3A%20Yasir%20Alyasiri%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3EStarring%3A%20Baraa%20Alem%2C%20Nour%20Alkhadra%2C%20Alanoud%20Saud%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3ERating%3A%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Key facilities
  • Olympic-size swimming pool with a split bulkhead for multi-use configurations, including water polo and 50m/25m training lanes
  • Premier League-standard football pitch
  • 400m Olympic running track
  • NBA-spec basketball court with auditorium
  • 600-seat auditorium
  • Spaces for historical and cultural exploration
  • An elevated football field that doubles as a helipad
  • Specialist robotics and science laboratories
  • AR and VR-enabled learning centres
  • Disruption Lab and Research Centre for developing entrepreneurial skills
Company%20profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EName%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20WallyGPT%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E2014%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounders%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESaeid%20and%20Sami%20Hejazi%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ESector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFinTech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20raised%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E%247.1%20million%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ENumber%20of%20staff%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%2020%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EInvestment%20stage%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPre-seed%20round%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Stree

Producer: Maddock Films, Jio Movies
Director: Amar Kaushik
Cast: Rajkummar Rao, Shraddha Kapoor, Pankaj Tripathi, Aparshakti Khurana, Abhishek Banerjee
Rating: 3.5

 

 

ENGLAND SQUAD

Goalkeepers Henderson, Johnstone, Pickford, Ramsdale

Defenders Alexander-Arnold, Chilwell, Coady, Godfrey, James, Maguire, Mings, Shaw, Stones, Trippier, Walker, White

Midfielders Bellingham, Henderson, Lingard, Mount, Phillips, Rice, Ward-Prowse

Forwards Calvert-Lewin, Foden, Grealish, Greenwood, Kane, Rashford, Saka, Sancho, Sterling, Watkins 

First Person
Richard Flanagan
Chatto & Windus 

While you're here
The%20Specs
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E3.6-litre%20twin%20turbocharged%20V6%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETransmission%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E10-speed%20automatic%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20472hp%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20603Nm%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3Efrom%20Dh290%2C000%20(%2478%2C9500)%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20now%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
PETER%20PAN%20%26%20WENDY
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDavid%20Lowery%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStars%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Alexander%20Molony%2C%20Ever%20Anderson%2C%20Joshua%20Pickering%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Abu Dhabi Equestrian Club race card

5pm: Abu Dhabi Fillies Classic (PA) Prestige; Dh110,000; 1,400m
5.30pm: Abu Dhabi Colts Classic (PA) Prestige; Dh110,000; 1,400m
6pm: Maiden (PA); Dh80,000; 1,600m
6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Championship (PA) Listed; Dh180,000; 1,600m
7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup (PA) Handicap; Dh70,000; 2,200m
7.30pm: Handicap (PA); Dh100,000; 2,400m

Countries recognising Palestine

France, UK, Canada, Australia, Portugal, Belgium, Malta, Luxembourg, San Marino and Andorra

 

In-demand jobs and monthly salaries
  • Technology expert in robotics and automation: Dh20,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Energy engineer: Dh25,000 to Dh30,000 
  • Production engineer: Dh30,000 to Dh40,000 
  • Data-driven supply chain management professional: Dh30,000 to Dh50,000 
  • HR leader: Dh40,000 to Dh60,000 
  • Engineering leader: Dh30,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Project manager: Dh55,000 to Dh65,000 
  • Senior reservoir engineer: Dh40,000 to Dh55,000 
  • Senior drilling engineer: Dh38,000 to Dh46,000 
  • Senior process engineer: Dh28,000 to Dh38,000 
  • Senior maintenance engineer: Dh22,000 to Dh34,000 
  • Field engineer: Dh6,500 to Dh7,500
  • Field supervisor: Dh9,000 to Dh12,000
  • Field operator: Dh5,000 to Dh7,000
Company%C2%A0profile
%3Cp%3ECompany%3A%20Zywa%3Cbr%3EStarted%3A%202021%3Cbr%3EFounders%3A%20Nuha%20Hashem%20and%20Alok%20Kumar%3Cbr%3EBased%3A%20UAE%3Cbr%3EIndustry%3A%20FinTech%3Cbr%3EFunding%20size%3A%20%243m%3Cbr%3ECompany%20valuation%3A%20%2430m%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The biog

Favourite films: Casablanca and Lawrence of Arabia

Favourite books: Start with Why by Simon Sinek and Good to be Great by Jim Collins

Favourite dish: Grilled fish

Inspiration: Sheikh Zayed's visionary leadership taught me to embrace new challenges.

WORLD CUP SEMI-FINALS

England v New Zealand

(Saturday, 12pm UAE)

Wales v South Africa

(Sunday, 12pm, UAE)

 

The five pillars of Islam

1. Fasting 

2. Prayer 

3. Hajj 

4. Shahada 

5. Zakat 

Honeymoonish
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDirector%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Elie%20El%20Samaan%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarring%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ENour%20Al%20Ghandour%2C%20Mahmoud%20Boushahri%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%203%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
CHELSEA SQUAD

Arrizabalaga, Bettinelli, Rudiger, Christensen, Silva, Chalobah, Sarr, Azpilicueta, James, Kenedy, Alonso, Jorginho, Kante, Kovacic, Saul, Barkley, Ziyech, Pulisic, Mount, Hudson-Odoi, Werner, Havertz, Lukaku. 

Four tips to secure IoT networks

Mohammed Abukhater, vice president at FireEye in the Middle East, said:

- Keep device software up-to-date. Most come with basic operating system, so users should ensure that they always have the latest version

- Besides a strong password, use two-step authentication. There should be a second log-in step like adding a code sent to your mobile number

- Usually smart devices come with many unnecessary features. Users should lock those features that are not required or used frequently

- Always create a different guest network for visitors

Results

5pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (Turf) 2,200m, Winner: Zalman, Pat Cosgrave (jockey), Helal Al Alawi (trainer)

5.30pm: Maiden (PA) Dh80,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Hisham Al Khalediah II, Fernando Jara, Mohamed Daggash.

6pm: Handicap (PA) Dh85,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Qader, Adrie de Vries, Jean de Roualle

6.30pm: Abu Dhabi Championship Listed (PA) Dh180,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Mujeeb, Fabrice Veron, Eric Lemartinel

7pm: Wathba Stallions Cup Handicap (PA) Dh70,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: AF Majalis, Tadhg O’Shea, Ernst Oertel

7.30pm: Handicap (TB) Dh90,000 (T) 1,600m, Winner: Shanaghai City, Fabrice Veron, Rashed Bouresly

8pm: Handicap (TB) Dh100,000 (T) 1,400m, Winner: Nayslayer, Bernardo Pinheiro, Jaber Ramadhan

World%20Food%20Day%20
%3Cp%3ECelebrated%20on%20October%2016%2C%20to%20coincide%20with%20the%20founding%20date%20of%20the%20United%20Nations%20Food%20and%20Agriculture%20Organisation%2C%20World%20Food%20Day%20aims%20to%20tackle%20issues%20such%20as%20hunger%2C%20food%20security%2C%20food%20waste%20and%20the%20environmental%20impact%20of%20food%20production.%20%0D%3C%2Fp%3E%0A

The Way It Was: My Life with Frank Sinatra by Eliot Weisman and Jennifer Valoppi
Hachette Books

Updated: April 26, 2022, 11:25 AM