On a chilly afternoon in the heart of Paris there is a bustling shopping district where traffic inches along grand boulevards past high-end shops and luxury boutiques.
The reason for the delays is not a clamour for shopping, as business here is typically slow in early November.
The streets appear to be suffering from traffic displaced around a new rectangular block east of the Seine that is designed to slash the numbers of cars and vans passing through. The new six-month trial limits vehicle access to the French capital's central districts, including areas around the Louvre and historic Le Marais.
pedestrian
The “limited traffic zone” restriction is part of a municipal plan to “appease traffic” and reduce pollution levels by encouraging walking and cycling, say Paris City Hall officials. It includes numerous exceptions for residents, workers, public transport, taxis and visitors – including shoppers or cinemagoers.
But many say it is catastrophic. “We have 80 per cent less clients than yesterday,” said Louis, the manager of a restaurant near Opera Garnier. “We didn't understand why. We hadn't been informed. We initially thought it was because of anti-terror measures. Why are they doing this to us just before Christmas?”
Only days after its introduction on Monday, confusion reigns, with many Parisians seemingly unaware of the new rules, while others were prompt to criticise them, perhaps due to past grievances over similar bans.
While traffic was light near the Opera, congestion remained heavy in the Marais area, where narrow streets are typically packed with tourists, cars, bicycles and delivery vans.
Some said they felt safer, knowing fewer cars were allowed in the area. “It's affected us in a positive way,” said Mai Vy, a student who cycles every day.
Others said they would ignore the new rule, which may cost them a €135 ($146) fine after the test phase – beyond that, it will not be possible to drive through the area any more when, for example, going from the south to the north of Paris.
“If I were stopped, I'd pretend that I didn't know,” said Olivia, 18, an electric scooter owner. The French capital's police chief said the new rules will be enforced with a light touch.
The broader aim of reducing cars in the city is generally popular but Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo's methods have polarised opinions. She has been lauded by some for transforming the capital into a bicycle-friendly city, but criticised by others who say her policies burden businesses and car-dependent residents unfairly.
'Pointless' rules
“Paris would be even more beautiful with fewer cars,” said Louis. “But if you remove transport possibilities for Parisians, you have to give them something in exchange. Bicycles and scooters for rent aren't enough.”
Similar traffic restrictions have been introduced in previous years by Ms Hidalgo, including a complete closure of the popular Rue de Rivoli to cars in 2022. But the effect was heavier traffic in areas just outside restricted zones, said Neno, 57, a taxi driver. “As soon as you leave the area, you hit traffic jams,” he said. “It's pointless.”
Studies indicate that such repercussions are limited over time, according to City Hall officials. “In 20 years, we have reduced car traffic in Paris by half,” deputy mayor in charge of mobility David Belliard told BFMTV.
Logistics aside, Neno, who has 15 years' experience as a chauffeur, highlights a deeper feeling that authorities are infringing on personal freedom by limiting access to individual cars. “It's psychological – people want to be able to drive themselves around and be autonomous,” he said. “The car is a symbol of freedom.”
Frustration among some drivers has been heightened by recent legislation introduced to reduce the speed limit on the city's ring road to 50kph, from 70kph, a dramatic decrease from the 80kph allowed until 2014. These measures are justified for ecological and public health reasons, Ms Hidalgo's office argued, but critics still say the measures are punitive.
The issue has become a flashpoint between political factions. The right-wing president of the Ile de France region, Valerie Pecresse, has heaped criticism on Ms Hidalgo, a prominent left-wing socialist figure. Ms Pecresse has suggested alternatives such as anti-noise walls. Environmentalists say such measures do not tackle the root cause of noise and air pollution: cars.
Pushing anti-car legislation is a risky strategy for Ms Hidalgo, 65, whose mandate ends in two years. French media recently claimed that, after 12 years at the helm of Paris, she will not run again and is planning to head an environmental organisation in Brussels – a claim she has denied.
Meanwhile, even left-leaning residents are voicing discontent. Dr Grigoris Gerotziafas, a medical professional who commutes daily across the city on a motorbike, says he might back a conservative candidate if they vow to reverse Ms Hidalgo's traffic policies.
“It's become hellish,” he said. “They keep creating obstacles to make life difficult for people who use cars without providing a well-organised alternative. That's the problem.”
'Ridiculous' detours
Odile and Giuseppe, a retired couple in their seventies who live on the border of the traffic ban zone, felt similarly frustrated. They mostly walk or take the bus but they need their car for occasional large grocery trips.
“We're going to have to make a big detour now. It's ridiculous. It causes pollution, too,” said Odile, who voted for Ms Hidalgo's right-wing opponent at the last election despite being left-wing.
For now, the promised “appeasement” seems elusive, particularly after the recent killing of a cyclist by an SUV driver in a fit of road rage, an event that shocked the nation.
Bicycle advocates argue the government has done little to address road violence against cyclists, while many locals say they heighten tension by ignoring the rules of the road. “I'm really bothered by them,” said Giuseppe, speaking shortly after he and his wife nearly collided with an electric bike that ran a red light.
Even within the cycling community, there is acknowledgement that cyclists may need to be reined in. Sarah, 35, a library manager in the Opera neighbourhood and a long-time cyclist, believes police should crack down on reckless bikers.
“People must be educated. They are dangerous,” said Sarah. The recent restrictions will only heighten tension, she fears. “People are going to be extremely tense behind the wheel.”
