Named after the freshwater fish that swims against the current, Salmon Guru is at once loud, proud and super-popular with people in their late 30s and 40s – who were around to witness the evolution of “the Dubai brunch”.
A far cry from the original, leisurely late-breakfast concept that originated in the UK, for Saturday night revellers to have a bit of a lie-in on the Sunday morning, brunch in the Emirates is something of a party in itself – serving everything from lavish menus to live entertainment.
Brunch is no longer just a fusion meal; it’s a culture. And as with many aspects of life here, that culture is laced with opulence, indulgence and generous hospitality. Accordingly, the Dubai outpost of Salmon Guru, a Madrid-born restobar, has come up with Brunch Like No Other, a new, two-part Saturday package that takes you from afternoon beats and bites to thumping after-party.
With three friends in tow, this is how my afternoon unfolded.
The vibe
I am sat at a table flanked by a snake charmer painted on to a sleet grey pillar on one side, and a neon-lit geisha portrait on a redbrick wall on the other, with Chinese lanterns hanging from the ceiling for good measure.
The seating options in the rest of the restaurant are varied and no less wild – a lenticular table surface comes a with dino-dragon hybrid rising from the foliage, while chairs in acid blue are embroidered with a hibiscus-garlanded tiger. The jungle-floral theme continues on to colourful throw cushions and even extends to the ceiling of the enclosed, air-conditioned terrace, studded with dragon-spouting upside-down umbrellas.
A kaleidoscope of butterflies decorates one wall, while the rectangular arch dividing the dining room and bar areas from the terrace is done up in a rash of neon shades. And yet the space is not an eyesore; if anything, it’s unapologetically kitsch and all the more cool for it.
Music is a big part of the draw here, with a different DJ pair taking over every weekend. On our visit, we enjoy the electronic, techno and melodic house sets spun by Mobat and Off Kourse. Others in the line-up include Linda Sawaya, Mendes, KLO and Greg Agopian.
The menu
Eschewing the expansive buffet spreads put on by most family-friendly brunches, Salmon Guru keeps its food offering classy and contained. The seven-dish menu is unlimited, though, so we are still full to bursting by the time the after-party rolls around, and don’t rue the absence of dessert quite as much.
The dips accompanying most of the dishes are the game-changer. The potato and plantain chips, for example, come with house-made guacamole and a goat’s cheese cream we request more because it goes so well with every forthcoming dish – I even painstakingly spear each oak-smoked edamame pod to dip.
The Atlantic wild sea bass crudo follows, dunked in citrusy leche de tigre, the flaky fish balanced by the crunch of toasted cancha corn. Oven-baked chicken wingettes come smothered in Japanese Banchan’s barbecue sauce (I still top them with a dollop of the goat’s cheese, of course).
The highlight of the meaty mains is the empanadilla, crispy pockets filled with lamb and sobrasada pie – and a garlic-dill aioli. The ground meat is perfectly spiced, the casing not too doughy, and the dip par excellence.
Given the limited food menu, the restaurant is unlikely to offer substitute dishes unless requested for well in advance, as was the case for our non-beef-eating friend who had to skip the last two dishes.
The fire-braised pulled beef short ribs are served in a softly steamed bao, with sides of coriander mayo and pickled onion; while the coal-grilled beef kofta is a bit more tough to chew, but still tasty thanks to add-ons of garlic butter, spiced tomato jam and calamansi tzatziki, garnished with dukkah.
Price point and contact information
Brunch Like No Other takes place every Saturday from 1.30pm. The brunch is until 5.30pm, and offers a variety of packages ranging from Dh275 ($75) for standing tables to Dh675 for the seated bubbly package. The after-party, until 8pm, starts from Dh275.
Salmon Guru is at The Opus by Omniyat in Business Bay, Dubai, and reservations can be made by contacting 052 814 9537. Valet parking is available at the hotel reception.
