Perhaps I’ve become accustomed to getting my avocado fix at cheap and cheerful cantinas, but shelling out close to Dh100 ($27) for a bowl of guacamole feels a little much, especially in the current climate. And yet, that is the going rate in several of Dubai’s fine dining Latin American restaurants – of which Amaru is a stellar, if steep, addition.
Fortunately, the spot just outside the main entrance of Souk Madinat Jumeirah – in the space previously occupied by J54 Studio – has put together two eight-course Chef’s Journey menus that translate into savings of about Dh400 compared with the price point of the a la carte dishes.
These can be enjoyed in a space that exudes a heritage-chic aesthetic, inspired by the Mayan, Aztec and Incan civilisations.
Here’s how my culinary and cultural journey unfolded.
First impressions
Named after the double-headed serpent-dragon said to move between worlds, Amaru is replete with motifs from the three Latin American dynasties. Think symbols etched on to the colonnade encircling the dining room; cosmic light projections that call to mind the worlds the restaurant’s namesake was said to glide between; and a larger-than-life ceremonial mask that would be almost intimidating were it not for its exaggerated moving eyes, giving the space a hip, energetic vibe.
The restaurant itself is set up in concentric circles, starting with a hexagonal bar and working its way outward to high tables and plush booths. The circle is an important archetype in many cultures, representing both community and the cosmos. A symbol of eternal continuity in Latin America, it reflects a reverence for nature, time and life itself.
Philosophical leanings aside, the curved layout lends the 220-capacity restaurant an intimate feel, complemented by foot-tapping instrumental Cuban music.
The menu
My dining partner and I sample the vegetarian and regular Chef’s Journey menus, each offering eight dishes, of which the guacamole starter and yucas side dish are common. Lime and spices are an inherent part of Latin American cooking, and both shine through in the creamy guacamole that is served with totopos rather than tortilla chips, with embossed Herdmar cutlery and Bonna Premium Porcelain plates.
It's an early sign of the restaurant’s fine dining promise, realised through the premium ingredients – think Kamchatka king crab, 9+ Wagyu tenderloin and tuna belly with edible gold – sourced and prepped by Peruvian master chef Carlo Valentino.
Even the Amaru and truffle-corn salads are indulgent enough to stand on their own for those who want to eat light. The first is a delectable mix of baby spinach, persimmon, avocado, Manchego cheese, kiwi and roasted asparagus, while the second melds the goodness of fresh truffle with goat’s cheese, roasted sesame paste and a trio of white, yellow and cancha corn nuts.
Beef and mushroom empanadas, and chicken and mushroom arepas follow. While the fillings are tangy and moreish, both casings are a bit too dense and doughy for me. Standouts among the appetisers are the mushroom anticuchos from the vegetarian menu and the Pacific Gold ceviche from the regular.
The street food skewers are elevated by the velvety texture of the shiitake, with chipotle and aji Amarillo – two of chef Valentino’s favourite spices – and tempered with mozzarella and chives. It’s akin to melt-in-the-mouth meat.
On the other end of the flavour spectrum, the ceviche comes with a luscious citrusy base of rocoto tiger’s milk – for more heat, a spicy sauce is served on the side in a delicate silver pipette – and a generous portion of sweet wild sea bass, plus a crunch of calamari.
Five appetisers in, we’re full to bursting and so are only to sample a few bites each of the two mains and dessert. This is definitely a menu that deserves to be savoured over a couple hours. The aforementioned cassava yucas is given the trendy charcoal treatment here – but is strictly an acquired taste.
The restaurant’s signature meat dish, the 36-hour Venezuelan asado negro is a dish of many flavour profiles: tender short ribs, creamy butternut puree, semisweet jaggery glaze, earthy coriander powder dip and spiced lime segments. It’s masterful, with just the right amount of melt, flake and glaze in each bite.
Equally well-executed is the Josper-cooked compressed eggplant a la brasa, served layered with white miso, tomato tartare, black garlic and a smoked emulsion that result in a crisp exterior and fondant-like filling.
While the chef’s famed pinata dessert is not part of the set menu, a nibble at the crunchy churros and saccharine sweet dulce de leche fondante is an excellent end to an exquisite – and relatively economical – spread.
Standout dish
If you’re opting to go a la carte, the Pacific Gold ceviche (Dh179) and short ribs (Dh175) are a highlight for meat-eaters, while vegetarians will be well served with the Amaru salad (Dh95), shiitake anticuchos (Dh75) and eggplant main (Dh85)
A chat with the chef
Chef Valentino is from Lima and has worked not only all over the Americas, but also in Europe, Africa, Asia and the Middle East over the past two decades. It’s what keeps him ticking, he says. “Every kitchen has its own way of working, its own traditions and challenges. Cooking in multiple continents, using unique ingredients and techniques, and immersing myself in different culinary cultures is what keeps this profession so exciting.”
Having built the kitchen at Amaru from the ground up, chef Valentino says Latin American cuisine is defined by its diversity, colour and vibrancy. Unsurprisingly, he lists chillies (“aji Amarillo, rocoto, chipotle and charapita, which bring depth and character”) as one of his favourite ingredients to work with, alongside ancient grains including quinoa, amaranth and buckwheat.
Seafood is another chef favourite, and Valentino recommends the king crab causa (Dh175) “inspired by the landscapes of the Peruvian mountains” from Amaru’s cold section. From the hot section, the chef lists the octopus (Dh200) as a personal favourite, served with parsnip foam, tenkasu and Jerusalem artichoke puree.
Other chef-recommended dishes include: asparagus shizo (Dh75) for vegetarians, featuring chargrilled green and white asparagus, served with pickled radish, asparagus puree and sweet potato gel; the 9+ Wagyu anticuchos (Dh195), a tribute to Latin American street food, for meat lovers; and for dessert, the pinata (Dh110), “inspired by the festive tradition of celebration and sharing. Hidden inside is a chicha morada sphere created using liquid nitrogen techniques, filled with creamy chirimoya ice cream.”
The verdict
Amaru can easily become my go-to joint, be it on weekly date nights, a casual visit with friends or for special occasions. It’s just so cool.
What might give me pause is its a la carte prices. Amaru is easily up there among the UAE’s most expensive Latin American restaurants. Fortunately, the two set menus offer fantastic value for money, plus premium ingredients, sophisticated plating and masterful cooking.
Consider: the eight-course vegetarian menu, priced at Dh250 per person, offers dishes that total Dh625 from the regular menu. Likewise, the non-vegetarian set menu is for Dh290, made up of dishes that would otherwise set you back Dh850.
Contact information
Amaru at Souk Madinat Jumeirah serves dinner from 6pm until 11pm, with the bar open until 3am. Reservations can be made by contacting 050 263 7060.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
