Umi Kei at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab: Wagyu sandos, late-night ramen and a touch of theatre

Izakaya-style restaurant at the spectacular Dubai hotel lets the food do the talking

Umi Kei is an izakaya-style restaurant inside the lavish Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab. Photo: Jumeirah

Dubai’s long-standing obsession with Japanese dining finds its latest expression at Umi Kei, the izakaya-style restaurant inside the lavish Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab.

But getting there can be a bit tricky. The hotel, which opened in March, is a spectacle, all sweeping lines and scale, but reaching Umi Kei requires navigating a maze of winding hallways. I got lost more than once.

Umi Kei only appears at dinner time. By day, it is part of The Fore, the hotel's dining space, which converts into four distinct restaurants in the evening – Umi Kei, Madame Li, Mirabelle and The Bombay Club.

Once you arrive at the restaurant, the scene feels worth the trek. Japanese characters decorate the walls, wooden panels frame the room and the lighting drops low, giving the whole space an intimate, after-dark energy.

Umi Kei is part of The Fore restaurant during the day, transforming into an izakaya for dinner. Photo: Jumeirah

The name sets the tone – umi means “ocean” and kei translates to “blessings” – for a restaurant built around seafood, Japanese tradition and a sense of occasion.

The restaurant also nods to the Japanese philosophy of kintsugi, the practice of repairing pottery with gold. Some of the plates arrive with gold-lined cracks as part of their design, and even the chopstick holders look as if they’ve been fashioned from broken pots - small but deliberate cues that tie the idea back to the table.

The menu

Black cod is one of the highlights of the menu at Umi Kei. Photo: Jumeirah

Dinner began with edamame alio-olio, a playful riff on the classic bar snack. This version, apparently a family recipe from chef Yukou Nishimura, leans heavily on garlic – a choice I will never fault. Just be careful as it is quite oily, making the experience messier than it needs to be.

The kitchen was on firmer footing with the second starter I tried, the chutoro carpaccio: delicate slices of tuna dressed in a sesame sauce that outshone the fish, and crowned with caviar whose brine delivered a sharp, satisfying jolt. I typically prefer carpaccio with a more acidic edge, but here the layering of flavours made total sense.

Fisherman's Lunch at Umi Kei. Photo: Jumeirah

Then came the wagyu beef cutlet sando, easily the dish of the night. Tender beef, a crisp coating and a house-made sauce that tied everything together. It’s a heavy starter – really a sharing dish – but I happily ate most of it myself.

An assortment of sushi and nigiri followed, more a showcase of quality fish than of culinary invention. Nothing screamed for attention, but the freshness spoke for itself, reinforced by the seafood display at the sushi bar. The selection will no doubt delight an ardent sushi purist, which I’m not.

There was more theatre with the Fisherman’s Lunch – scallops cooked tableside, topped with uni and wrapped in torched nori. The performance was engaging, and while the flavours were more restrained than the show suggested, the dish still carried a certain charm – pleasant, if not revelatory.

More convincing was the lightly grilled tachiuo or largehead hairtail fish, a main that spoke in the language of Japanese restraint: tender flesh, minimal seasoning and a confidence in letting the fish carry the dish on its own.

Shaved ice with toppings at Umi Kei. Photo: Jumeirah

Another tableside performance: a mound of snow is carved using a rustic ice shaver and dressed with syrups and toppings. I chose matcha and red bean, a classic pairing. Light and refreshing, it’s an ending that clears the palate, although you might crave something more substantial afterwards.

Save or splurge

The most affordable way to approach the menu would be to start with the edamame alio-olio (Dh35), move on to the chutoro carpaccio (Dh195) and finish with the classic chicken ramen (Dh105). At Dh330, it’s not inexpensive, but it offers a fair snapshot of the kitchen’s range without going overboard.

But if you don't mind indulging, you can choose the sashimi chiku omakase platter (Dh260), add the wagyu beef cutlet sando (Dh180) and the showpiece robata-cooked A5 wagyu (Dh495). Together they total Dh935, a sum that underscores the restaurant’s positioning as a high-end experience rather than an everyday outing.

The verdict

Umi Kei isn’t aiming to be the flashiest Japanese restaurant in Dubai. Instead, it’s focused, well-executed and occasionally indulgent. A few dishes were more style than substance, but the highs, especially the wagyu sando and the black cod, were good enough to make the visit worthwhile.

This is a restaurant for celebrations with a sense of ceremony, or for a date night where the setting matters as much as the menu. With its late-night ramen service, it also speaks to a younger audience looking for luxury with a twist.

Contact information

Umi Kei, at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab in Umm Suqeim, Dubai, is open daily for dinner from 6.30pm to 11.30pm, with a Late Night Ramen Club available from 10pm to 11.30pm. Reservations can be made by calling 800 323 232.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant