If the three Ls of location apply to food as well as homes, then Mount St is the place to eat out in central London.
The invitation to this restaurant, which offers fine dining with a classic British twist, reminded me that "as we know Mayfair is a popular spot for Middle Eastern tourists in the summer months". Not just the summer, but the low hum of quiet conversation from promenading visitors in their comfort wear pervades these streets almost year round.
At Mount St, it is not just the well-heeled from the region. There is a Premier League club owner, not from the Middle East, at one table, plus bodyguards in tow, on the night I visit.
Mount St sits above the long-standing Audley public house, but is accessed through a private entrance. Each floor is dedicated hospitality space, including private rooms decked out in tartan.
The executive chef is Jamie Shears, who was busy in service most of the evening during our visit. He has produced an ambitious menu, including the signature lobster dish for two.
First impressions
If Mount St was missing anything it was a red velvet chaise longue. It is that kind of space. Like an opulent salon, the atmosphere was very welcoming and the staff really went out of their way to ensure we had a pleasant experience. It helped that pieces by Lucian Freud, Henri Matisse, Andy Warhol and Frank Bowling lined the walls. The mosaic floor and array of windows at the same time lend the room a bright and airy feel during the day.
Now in its third year, having opened in autumn 2022, Mount St Restaurant has become a firm favourite of many in a neighbourhood that includes legendary hotels, including Claridge's and the Connaught.
Chef's delight
The food was impressive and I thought the menu was well structured. Looking around, the lobster pie for two was the main order for many fellow diners. For something lighter at our table there was the confit smoked trout, jersey royal potatoes and watercress, topped with an egg. For meat-eaters, there was an excellent aged beef with seasonal greens.
Seasonality is important to the Mount St offering. Shears explained the wider approach as expressed in two eye-catching dishes, the mock turtle croquette on the starters and the agnolotti of baked potato and black truffle on the mains.
"Both dishes balance tradition with innovation, offering food that is both rooted in history and exciting for today’s diners," he told The National. "I like to take familiar flavours and present them in a different or unexpected way, while ensuring that every dish feels thoughtful, considered and full of character.
"The mock turtle croquette takes inspiration from a classic dish, but delivers it in a way that’s unusual, refined and packed with flavour, while the agnolotti is indulgent and comforting, and is a vegetarian dish that doesn’t compromise on richness or flavour.
"I’m ambitious with my approach to cooking and I’m always looking to create a new take or put an unexpected spin on well-known dishes, meaning people keep coming back to try more."
The knowledgeable and solicitous staff were keen that I try the hazelnut parfait and it did not disappoint. Indeed, it was superbly balanced.
The ambition
The buzz around the building is the product of upwards of 30 events a week, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner settings at the restaurant. Shears says it has been a career-topping challenge to get the food operation humming in the Mayfair landmark. Before signing up with Mount St, he was at the Wolfgang Puck restaurant on nearby Park Lane.
"Mount St Restaurant is about creating a space where exceptional food feels exciting in a welcoming setting," he says. "I want guests to experience dishes that are rooted in London’s culinary history but presented in a way that feels fresh, relevant and effortlessly enjoyable.
"I was executive chef at 45 Park Lane, which was thriving, and I was very comfortable in my role there. When I took on the challenge here, I had no idea how big we were going to become."
How much it costs
The grilled Cornish mackerel, blood orange ponzu, monk’s beard and caviar costs £28 ($37), while the lobster pie for two, with greens, is £110. A warm bitter chocolate mousse, cocoa nib and coffee ice cream is priced at £16.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
