With the azure waters of the French Riviera as a backdrop, Berluti unveiled its spring/summer 2022 collection in Cannes, marking a new era of clothing for the storied maison.
It’s been one year since Berluti’s creative director Kris Van Assche left, a move which chief executive Antoine Arnault described as part of a push to “let Berluti lead its own rhythm and give freedom to its presentation schedule".
And, that freedom is clear in both the way the collection was presented and the pieces themselves. Berluti has rewritten its ready-to-wear style, offering a more casual and playful feel, while still maintaining its signature touches of leather.
The label’s Scritto motif, traditionally hand calligraphed on shoes and leather goods, takes centre stage in the spring/summer collection, reimagined as an exaggerated abstract print, emblazoned across breezy shirt and short co-ords, windbreakers and shirt jackets in complementing hues of sienna and aubergine.
Shapes are fluid and supple, emphasising a more relaxed approach to spring/summer dressing. Suits take the form of lightweight shirt jackets paired with relaxed fit trousers, creating a throw-on look that still feels expertly tailored.
Naturally, leather features heavily throughout the collection, from laminated parkas to lightweight jackets and shearling trekkers, adding a tougher edge to offset the silks and cottons of lighter pieces.
This season’s accessories also offer a new take on the symbolic models of the house. The updated Un Jour and Toujours leather bags now come in patina with a tie-dye effect in beetle green, sapphire blue and duna. The brand's famed pattern canvas is transposed onto a herringbone weave, enhanced by Venetian leather finishes at the base and corners.
The emblematic leather of the maison has been reinvented for a more casual look and feel, appearing tanned and grainy, with a supple finish. Four styles — the Late Hour briefcase, Late Hour shopper, Late Hour backpack and Late Hour pouch — make up the Jour Softy line.
And, of course, no Berluti collection would be complete without footwear, coming this season in the form of multi-strap leather dad sandals, casual trainers and leather shoes. The Alessandro and Andy styles have been redesigned in new patina, while the Playtime and Fast Track trainers are available in different leathers.
The collection also sees the introduction of a new style, Eden, an ultra-comfortable dress shoe in extra supple leather.
As part of Berluti’s push to “lead by its own rhythm”, its Cannes showcase, held during the 75th Cannes International Film Festival, is a departure from its traditional fashion week shows. And, the beachside location, held at the chic La Plage du Martinez, made the perfect backdrop for Berluti’s playful and unpredictable new direction.