To craft a pair of Mashrabiya diamond cufflinks by Mario Uboldi, with almost 300 stones of approximately 3 carats set in 18k white gold with rose gold backing takes time, skill and patience. A personalised engraving can be added to this limited edition line. To own them costs Dh39,000.
Mashrabiya describes the lattice work seen in front of street-sided windows of houses in the region. The Arabic influence in design, however, goes further than a nod to times past. It brings modern Arabia, and more specifically Dubai, to your wardrobe.
The man that designed these cuff links is a Swiss architect named André Meyerhans. You may not know the name but you will know at least one of his architectural projects – he designed the new Al Garhoud Bridge over Dubai Creek and two and half years ago was approached to design jewellery that resulted in the collection for Mario Uboldi.
The material for the cuff links, the gold and diamonds, are both sourced and crafted sustainably as well as ethically.
The cuff links are referred to as jewellery art and the line evokes Piet Mondrian famous for his orthogonal grids of black lines on white grounds with primary colours yellow, red and blue. The cuff links are therefore a fusion of architecture, art and luxury materials in an esoteric mix.
“The architectural design approach is instilled in the jewellery which results in sculptural creations with reduced and clear lines,” says André Meyerhans, Mashrabiya jewellery designer. “I often develop design ideas on a very abstract and intangible level. As long the thought is left in this state, it can develop in any direction. It is only once I materialise the idea that it is defined for the rest of the world as architecture, art or jewellery.”
Mario Uboldi Jewellery Art is available at Rivoli Arcade in Dubai’s Conrad Hotel, Park Hyatt, Grosvenor House and Address Downtown in Dubai as well in Ritz Carlton and St. Regis in Abu Dhabi.
Q&A
Architect André Meyerhans reveals more about his branch out into jewellery design.
Is designing a bridge and designing jewellery similar?
I have designed New Garhoud Bridge. And indeed, it is hard to explain similarities between designing this award-winning, infrastructural project and filigree jewellery. The architectural design approach is instilled also in the jewellery, which results in sculptural creations with reduced and clear lines. The key difference is that architecture is an operation-driven design, while jewellery is freed of purpose and often reduced to its material properties. Obviously, architecture is by far more complex in the planning as well as in the execution phase.
Why design cufflinks?
A gentleman’s jewellery is limited to three items – a watch, a pen and cufflinks. As such, cufflinks are one of the items where a statement can be made. Often, too little attention is paid to them.
What makes the perfect cufflink?
Four characteristics basically distinguish a cufflink:
1 Post: the post comprises either of a knob or a swivel mechanism. The knob allows a clearer design while the swivel post is initially easier to use.
2 Material: good material neither leaves stains on the cuff, nor changes colour. Gold for example never leaves marks, whereas steel might. Natural gemstones don’t change colour, artificial stones and plastics often deteriorate in the sun.
3 Craftsmanship: commercial cufflinks are machine made and elements are often glued.
4 Design: as with a tie, geometric designs are the way to go.
ascott@thenational.ae
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