• Ghoozi tacos are served at Fusions by Tala, which is based in the Gulf Hotel Bahrain. All photos: Fusions by Tala (unless otherwise specified)
    Ghoozi tacos are served at Fusions by Tala, which is based in the Gulf Hotel Bahrain. All photos: Fusions by Tala (unless otherwise specified)
  • Wagyu beef cheek.
    Wagyu beef cheek.
  • Softshell crab with mehyawa aioli.
    Softshell crab with mehyawa aioli.
  • Golden Goose, a Middle Eastern twist on chicken liver pate.
    Golden Goose, a Middle Eastern twist on chicken liver pate.
  • Leek ravioli.
    Leek ravioli.
  • Lavender sponge dessert.
    Lavender sponge dessert.
  • Chocolate fudge cake with pistachio ganache and whey caramel.
    Chocolate fudge cake with pistachio ganache and whey caramel.
  • A bouillabaisse curry with octopus, clams and seasonal seafood.
    A bouillabaisse curry with octopus, clams and seasonal seafood.
  • An Emirati sea bass tartare was part of chef Tala Bashmi’s one-off dinner menu at Boca, Dubai.
    An Emirati sea bass tartare was part of chef Tala Bashmi’s one-off dinner menu at Boca, Dubai.

Fusions by Tala review: Mena masterchef realises a vision uniquely her own


  • English
  • Arabic

Against all the odds for a restaurant that was relaunched before the onset of the global pandemic in early 2020, Fusions by Tala in Bahrain has been recognised on the inaugural Mena’s 50 Best Restaurants list, additionally earning chef patronne Tala Bashmi the title of Middle East & North Africa’s Best Female Chef 2022.

Located on the sixth floor of the five-star Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa, adjacent to a sprawling roof terrace lounge, Fusions by Tala synthesises fine dining and nostalgic Arabian home cooking, with Bashmi’s distinct fingerprints all over it.

What to expect and where to sit

The thoughtful hospitality begins before we reach the restaurant. I receive a call in the afternoon confirming my booking, as well as enquiring about any dietary restrictions and whether our party of two is celebrating a special occasion.

When we arrive at the marble-filled hotel, a lift whisks us upstairs where we are greeted with a huge smile from a friendly hostess who escorts us to the restaurant.

A crenellated wall of large picture windows maximises the number of tables with front-row views across busy roads and high-rise buildings with flashing multicoloured lights. By contrast, the atmosphere inside is cosy and calm, thanks to relaxing but upbeat music and subtle golden lighting. Smaller lights on each table allow for easy reading of the menus.

Fusions by Tala at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa. Photo: Gulf Hotel Bahrain
Fusions by Tala at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa. Photo: Gulf Hotel Bahrain

The interior has an industrial-chic feel, with exposed ducting and shades of textured grey punctuated by natural wood tables. There is also a sense of homeyness achieved through the restaurant’s Goldilocks proportions, comfy mismatched chairs, plants and soft sheer curtains.

Service is proactive and attentive without being overbearing. Nobody will approach the table to interrogate you while your mouth is full. My dining partner and I are very well looked after throughout the evening by Nigel and Jaypee, who are friendly and deeply knowledgeable about the menu.

The centrepiece of the room is the brightly lit, glass-walled kitchen where Bashmi and her team work diligently. For those who want to keep a close eye on the action, there is the option of bar seating.

The menu

The complimentary extras bookending the meal perfectly encapsulate what Fusions by Tala is all about: reimagining and elevating humble and familiar Middle Eastern traditions.

To start, freshly baked fennel seed bread with whipped date molasses butter and incredibly flavourful machboos crackers are presented in traditional Bahraini handwoven palm leaf vessels. To conclude, an ornate khatam treasure chest opens to reveal a bed of sesame seeds topped with dates stuffed with pistachio ice cream and salted caramel chocolates, an ode to the custom of finishing a meal with dates and Arabic coffee.

My dining partner and I opt for the Surprise Tasting Menu. In Arabic, “ala kaifik” means “up to you”, and the tasting menu is continually evolving at the chef's discretion.

The feast begins with a mini ghoozi taco, and our bouches are immediately amused. It’s hard to fathom how so much flavour can be packed into one tiny bite. The light and crispy onions are the stars here, but the aspect I most enjoy is being encouraged to eat with our hands, which feels authentically Bahraini yet a bit rebellious in the context of fine dining.

Ghoozi tacos. Photo: Fusions by Tala
Ghoozi tacos. Photo: Fusions by Tala

Next are two prawn dishes. The first is an aromatic ceviche dressed tableside in a foamy sauce. This hides the surprise element of finger lime, which bursts and zings like adult, organic popping candy. If this dish represents the high notes, the second is the bass line.

Bashmi has used her grandmother’s chebba recipe, stuffing each with a prawn concoction and bathed in a sweet and umami tomato and onion sauce that causes us to reach for our bread rolls to mop up.

The stand-out dish of soft-shell crab with mehyawa arrives next, followed by a spoon of grapefruit and jasmine granita. That refreshes the palate more than it cleanses, like a floral breeze.

We move on to tikka tataki, marinated in black lime and served with neat dollops of Bahraini chimichurri and black garlic. The rare prime US tenderloin could be sliced by a mere glance.

Another palate cleanser follows, this time a pair of sorbets. We are challenged to identify the flavours behind the vivid reds and greens, but fail. It is hibiscus tea with mint, which is a known elixir in its hot beverage form.

The main dish is Bashmi’s famous Wagyu beef cheek, braised for eight hours and topped with a shard of mind-boggling, glass-like okra, that cracks with a simple tap of your cutlery, which is served with a bowl of tomato broth rice on the side. Again, everything is perfectly seasoned and there is a wonderful interplay of textures in the mouth.

The most magical thing about what we do is we can change someone’s entire day and maybe even their whole week with just one meal
Chef Tala Bashmi

Believe it or not, my dining partner and I still have room for dessert. First we are invited to smash and mix a tower of deconstructed baklava with saffron ice cream, mango orange blossom and caramelised pistachio. My dining partner finds the saffron overpowering, and I wonder if the recipe is so far removed from standard baklava that it might dash expectations for some. Having said that, it is tasty, satisfying and not overly sweet.

The other dessert is an enigmatic purple ovoid, flaked with edible gold leaf, and sat atop a chewy and crunchy golden biscuit. Although it pains us to slice through such beauty, we are immediately refocused by the sight of pristine layers of lavender sponge, blueberry jelly, white chocolate mousse and lemon creme brulee. Tasted separately, the components are delicious and distinct, while together they are synergistic. This dessert leans to the esoteric side, but there are safer-looking options for those feeling less adventurous.

Overall, the menu reveals Bashmi’s prestigious training, her love for global street eats and nostalgic home cooking, and most of all, her passion for imbuing food with Middle Eastern flair.

Stand-out dish

Softshell crab with mehyawa aioli. Photo: Fusions by Tala
Softshell crab with mehyawa aioli. Photo: Fusions by Tala

Inspired by bamia, an okra and meat stew, the braised Wagyu feels like the purest Middle Eastern dish of the night and perhaps the most conceptual.

Another worthy contender is Bashmi's version of mehyawa. The Arabian fermented fish sauce, tangy with depth of flavour, is typically eaten in simple ways, with bread, eggs or cheese.

Bashmi has invented a recipe of softshell crab with cardamom pickled cabbage, harissa honey, micro herbs and finger lime, all brought together with a delectable mehyawa aioli. The dish exemplifies how Bashmi is inspired, but in no way constrained by, traditional Arabian fare.

We’re advised to get a bit of everything in each mouthful, yet every bite is different. This dish hits all the points of yumminess, presentation, texture and balance.

My dining partner — who confesses she’s never loved fish pastes and wouldn’t ever order softshell crab voluntarily — positively lights up and exclaims her mouth is dancing. It isn’t the only time this evening that Bashmi has converted her to things she formerly eschewed.

A chat with the chef

Chef Tala Bashmi was named Mena's Best Female Chef 2022 by the World's 50 Best group. Photo: Fusions by Tala
Chef Tala Bashmi was named Mena's Best Female Chef 2022 by the World's 50 Best group. Photo: Fusions by Tala

I feel myself begin to fangirl over Bashmi as she speaks, because in addition to looking calm and collected in the kitchen, she’s just plain cool, wearing a custom-made chef’s jacket with spike-studded shoulders and a black baseball cap.

Despite craving the opportunity to work under a mentor during her earlier years in the kitchen, Bashmi is now grateful that her style has evolved to be uniquely hers. She strives to show nifas, an Arabic concept of imbuing cooking with soul, intuition and emotional connection.

“The most magical thing about what we do is we can change someone’s entire day and maybe even their whole week with just one meal,” she says.

While influencing moods, Bashmi also promotes sustainability. “There are a lot of ingredients not included on my menus, for example foie gras and salmon, which don't come from sustainable sources and are harmful to the environment. As I learn more about the origins of ingredients and their sustainability, I adapt."

Bashmi's leek ravioli uses all parts of the vegetable in an attempt to promote root-to-stem cooking. Photo: Fusions by Tala
Bashmi's leek ravioli uses all parts of the vegetable in an attempt to promote root-to-stem cooking. Photo: Fusions by Tala

Bashmi grew up visiting markets with her father, and she maintains this direct connection to local suppliers. “My philosophy is to buy from farmers and fishermen who I know source their produce in sustainable ways, like without trawling, for instance. I often text the guys at Hidd fish market to see what they’ve caught and set aside certain things.”

Bashmi may be cool, but she says she isn’t trendy. “I’m not about trends for trends’ sake. First and foremost, it’s got to taste good. I do put in a lot of effort with presentation, but you’ve got to want to lick your plate clean. Food is about flavour, at the end of the day.”

Value for money and contact information

Fusions by Tala is a world-class eatery, but it is not overly fancy, as is reflected in its price point. Starters range from 4.5 Bahraini dinars to BHD7.5 (up to $20), sides from BHD3 to BHD4, mains from BHD6 to BHD13, and desserts from BHD5 to BHD6.5. The 350g steak of chargrilled marbled US prime rib-eye is the most expensive item on the menu, at BHD25.

The five-course tasting menu costs BHD35, while eight courses go for BHD52.

Reservations can be made by calling 00973 177 130 00, emailing fusions@gulfhotelbahrain.com or through the eat app.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

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MATCH INFO

Southampton 0
Manchester City 1
(Sterling 16')

Man of the match: Kevin de Bruyne (Manchester City)

Analysis

Members of Syria's Alawite minority community face threat in their heartland after one of the deadliest days in country’s recent history. Read more

In numbers: China in Dubai

The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000

Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000

Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000

Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000

Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

Five films to watch

Castle in the Sky (1986)

Grave of the Fireflies (1988)

Only Yesterday (1991)

Pom Poki (1994)

The Tale of Princess Kaguya (2013)

Who's who in Yemen conflict

Houthis: Iran-backed rebels who occupy Sanaa and run unrecognised government

Yemeni government: Exiled government in Aden led by eight-member Presidential Leadership Council

Southern Transitional Council: Faction in Yemeni government that seeks autonomy for the south

Habrish 'rebels': Tribal-backed forces feuding with STC over control of oil in government territory

Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

The biog

Marital status: Separated with two young daughters

Education: Master's degree from American Univeristy of Cairo

Favourite book: That Is How They Defeat Despair by Salwa Aladian

Favourite Motto: Their happiness is your happiness

Goal: For Nefsy to become his legacy long after he is gon

Secret Nation: The Hidden Armenians of Turkey
Avedis Hadjian, (IB Tauris)
 

Tonight's Chat on The National

Tonight's Chat is a series of online conversations on The National. The series features a diverse range of celebrities, politicians and business leaders from around the Arab world.

Tonight’s Chat host Ricardo Karam is a renowned author and broadcaster who has previously interviewed Bill Gates, Carlos Ghosn, Andre Agassi and the late Zaha Hadid, among others.

Intellectually curious and thought-provoking, Tonight’s Chat moves the conversation forward.

Facebook | Our website | Instagram

 

The biog

Name: Salvador Toriano Jr

Age: 59

From: Laguna, The Philippines

Favourite dish: Seabass or Fish and Chips

Hobbies: When he’s not in the restaurant, he still likes to cook, along with walking and meeting up with friends.

What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE

Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.

Company Fact Box

Company name/date started: Abwaab Technologies / September 2019

Founders: Hamdi Tabbaa, co-founder and CEO. Hussein Alsarabi, co-founder and CTO

Based: Amman, Jordan

Sector: Education Technology

Size (employees/revenue): Total team size: 65. Full-time employees: 25. Revenue undisclosed

Stage: early-stage startup 

Investors: Adam Tech Ventures, Endure Capital, Equitrust, the World Bank-backed Innovative Startups SMEs Fund, a London investment fund, a number of former and current executives from Uber and Netflix, among others.

The Byblos iftar in numbers

29 or 30 days – the number of iftar services held during the holy month

50 staff members required to prepare an iftar

200 to 350 the number of people served iftar nightly

160 litres of the traditional Ramadan drink, jalab, is served in total

500 litres of soup is served during the holy month

200 kilograms of meat is used for various dishes

350 kilograms of onion is used in dishes

5 minutes – the average time that staff have to eat
 

Kamindu Mendis bio

Full name: Pasqual Handi Kamindu Dilanka Mendis

Born: September 30, 1998

Age: 20 years and 26 days

Nationality: Sri Lankan

Major teams Sri Lanka's Under 19 team

Batting style: Left-hander

Bowling style: Right-arm off-spin and slow left-arm orthodox (that's right!)

German intelligence warnings
  • 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
  • 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
  • 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250 

Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution

Updated: June 14, 2022, 9:07 AM