Al Maqidh: how Emiratis used to travel to cooler climes during summer

Residents of the UAE used to escape the desert heat by using camel convoys to retreat to palm-frond summer residences in the mountains and oases

Summer staycations in the UAE used to look quite different from how they are now. Photo: National Archives Documents

Hot sticky days are almost here again, with temperatures rising as we roll full-speed ahead into the UAE summer. And as many of us prepare to travel, swapping Dubai’s ocean breeze and Abu Dhabi’s sunsets for cooler climes, we turn our focus to the more humble summers of years gone by when jumping on a flight wasn’t quite so easy.

Before the UAE unified as a country, most summer travel plans revolved around swapping hot and humid coastline climes for nearby mountain or desert terrain.

Known as Al Maqidh — a word that comes from the Arabic for the hottest part of summer — the journeys were once an important ritual for Emirati families, who would await them eagerly each year.

Leaving the country’s coastal regions, people would flock to the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah, or to the oases of Al Ain, where cooler weather, fresh harvested fruit and spring water was readily available.

“We used to spend the summer season in Al Hamra, a coastal area in the emirate of Abu Dhabi, and travelled on camel to Liwa area during the autumn,” said Saeed Ahmad Rashid Matar Al Mansouri from Al Dhafra in a document published by the UAE's National Archives.

These summer trips would typically average about three months, and back then there wasn’t a choice of five-star hotels to stay in. Instead, people would bed down in huts made of palm fronds.

“They would stay in what we call 'bait al arish' — or the palm tree house,” Yousef Al Mannaee from Dubai's Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Centre for Cultural Understanding tells The National.

"It’s a house made out of palm trees. They would build it when they got there and every family would know which place was theirs in that area."

One thing that perhaps has not changed too much when it comes to summer travel is that these annual journeys were largely left up to the woman of the family to organise.

“Before men sailed for pearling, they would give down payments to women in the family to help prepare for the summer journey and pay camel owners who would carry them to Oman or Liwa,” said Obaid Rashid Ahmed bin Sandal Al Ali in the book Their Memory our History, published by the National Archives.

Camel convoys were used to transport people from the coastal regions of the country to cooler sites inland. Photo: DCT Abu Dhabi

Traditionally, these camel owners would set out in groups of three to four at the start of the summer season and journey to coastal cities where they would transport residents to oases and other cooler regions of the country, according to Wam. These camel owners were usually Bedouins known for their loyalty, expertise and resourcefulness on the desert roads.

But by the early 1960s, cars were more common.

“People used what was sort of like an old Uber system, with one person in the neighbourhood owning a car, a four-wheel [drive], and taking other families to where they needed to go for the summer,” Mr Al Mannaee says.

"Others would still use their camels as their main transport to get there.

"The unification of the UAE led to the founders of the country implementing a lot of initiatives to [improve] the lifestyle of people so they didn't have to go to Al Maqidh any more."

Coupled with more widespread air-conditioning, this meant that these journeys to escape the heat soon ceased, but the summer sojourns still hold fond memories for many.

“My mother used to spend the summer season near the mountains in Ras Al Khaimah and when she used to go there with her family they would have a lot of fun,” Mr Al Mannaee says.

"They went to an area where there were a lot of palm trees and there would be some small pools, so that they could swim over there too. The children really used to look forward to it. They had a lot of dates and fruit, and the weather was a little bit better there than in other places."

How Dubai Creek has (and hasn't) changed in 55 years — in pictures

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  The creek in Dubai circa 1937. Getty Images

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  Boats on the Creek in Dubai, with the Customs House in the background, 1967. Getty Images

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  A view across Dubai Creek in 1967. Getty Images

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  Dubai Creek in 1964. Photo: Alamy

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  Ships in 1967 unloading goods on the creek for the Customs Department in Dubai. Getty Images

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  Dubai Creek, April 1968, taken from a Beaver flying to Sir Bani Yas Island. Photo: Nevile Ryton

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  Dubai Creek in 1976. Photo: Wam / AFP

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  The Carlton Hotel on the banks of the Creek in Dubai, circa 1978. The property was later rebuilt as the Carlton Tower Hotel. Getty Images

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  The mouth of the Creek, circa 1978. Getty Images

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  Dubai Creek in October, 1977. Getty Images

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  The building on the right is the National Bank of Dubai.

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  The National Bank of Dubai building on the edge of Dubai Creek. Photo: Al Ittihad

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  Dhows on the Creek in the 1970s. Photo: Al Ittihad

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  Racing driver Juan Manuel Fangio in Dubai on December 11, 1981. Getty Images

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  An aerial view of the opening of the Dubai Creek Golf and Marina Yacht Club golf course on January 1, 1993 in Dubai. Getty Images

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  The Creek in 1993. Alamy

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  The Creek in 1996. Getty Images

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  View of Bur Dubai and the Creek in 2015. Pawan Singh / The National

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  Water taxis, known as abras, on Dubai Creek in 2019 take people from Bur Dubai to Deira and back again at sunset. Chris Whiteoak / The National

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  Al Seef waterfront dining destination opens on Dubai Creek in 2017.

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  Dubai Creek from the Deira side of the city in 2015. Antonie Robertson / The National

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  Traditional ferry boats, known as abras, cross the Creek that separates Bur Dubai from Deira on January 6, 2022. AFP

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  A dhow crosses the Creek near the spice souq in 2022. Reem Mohammed / The National

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  Dubai Creek in May 2022. Chris Whiteoak / The National