Caviar Kaspia is a household name in Paris. The restaurant was launched by Russian Arcady Fixon in 1927, with a location right on the Seine, and became known for its chic French-Russian decor and delicacies. It acquired a cult following, with modern-day diners including Rihanna, Beyonce and Jay Z, and the Hadid sisters.
Almost a century later, the restaurant has chosen Dubai as the location for its first international outpost, which opened in Dubai International Financial Centre in October and welcomed Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed, Crown Prince of Dubai soon after.
What to expect and where to sit
The entrance of the two-storey space is decorated by a delicate awning that belies its grand history. But it’s all part of the process of creating an indoor space that whisks you away to the cosy bistros of France.
The dining room on the ground floor is an understated but chic space with turquoise tablecloths, intimate lighting and wall art in chunky frames. The restaurant also has an outdoor seating area, with carefully placed foliage hiding you from the outside world.
Upstairs – you can go via staircase or the restaurant’s private lift – is a lively terrace with dining tables as well as a lounge space for bites, plus a DJ and a bar. Tables here are more limited, though, so best specify your preference when making a reservation.
The menu
As its name implies, caviar is what this restaurant does best, and there are varieties for every palate (and pocket), as well as the option to add precious grams of the prized ingredient to some dishes.
However, even those who aren’t huge fans of raw fish eggs need not feel left out, because there are plenty of dishes that come without. Cases in point: none of the tuna tataki, traditional bortsch, chicken Kiev and signature Kaspia lobster feature caviar.
My dining partner and I started with the Olivier salad (Dh55), with turkey ham, potatoes, green peas and carrots with mayonnaise. We enjoyed the cool and creamy concoction so much that the king crab and crayfish salad (Dh140) with a zesty lemon dressing took a back seat.
The meal only got better. Caviar Kaspia is known for its smoked fish, but nothing could have prepared us for the deliciously tender and juicy Norwegian smoked salmon (Dh120). Served over a blini – a Russian pancake of sorts – and garnished with a dollop of sour cream, this tangy dish is what seafood dreams are made of. The portion is prepared tableside and allows the serving staff to show off their assembling chops. It is easily shared between two or even three people.
The real piece de resistance is the Kaspia potato, a dish so famous it has its own cult following. Served with fresh cream on the side, and loaded with caviar, no dish is quite as sought after or instantly recognisable at the restaurant. It comes at a price, though – depending on the amount and type of caviar chosen, it starts at Dh220 and can go all the way up to Dh2,610.
We also tried the pan-fried sea bass (Dh165) served over buckwheat with a side of baby spinach, which was fresh and flavourful.
Definitely leave room for dessert. Medovik or Russian honey cake (Dh80) may be all the rage lately, but Caviar Kaspia has perfected its indulgent version, with layers oozing with a cream that's delicate but not cloyingly sweet.
The showstopper on the dessert menu is the caviar de chocolate (Dh90). The dish doesn’t come with actual caviar – it has dark chocolate, cream, praline and hazelnut – but the clever presentation as a jar of caviar almost had us fooled.
Stand-out dish
The Kaspia potato. It looks ridiculously simple, but is prepared by scooping out the insides of the potato, mashing it with other ingredients (we definitely tasted dollops of cream), and placing it back in the skin before baking it and topping it with caviar.
To add to the hype, you’re handed tiny mother-of-pearl spoons because, we are told, “even the spoon can influence the taste of the caviar”. The effect? A creamy, indulgent dish that effortlessly complements the salty, buttery caviar, and fresh cream.
A chat with the chief executive
Ramon MacCrohon, chief executive of the Caviar Kaspia Group, says: “We have a team of caviar masters and have been working with most of our suppliers for decades, so trust is established. After the caviar is selected, a specific percentage of salt is added and the maturation period considered, so the texture and taste is at its best.”
The Dubai location was selected with care, too, he says. “It’s been the epicentre of food and entertainment for years, but the pandemic, and the way it was handled, has taken Dubai to another level.”
Value for money and contact information
As MacCrohon puts it: “Since it was founded, Caviar Kaspia has been synonymous with edible luxury” – so don’t go there expecting a budget meal, especially if you want to load up on caviar.
That being said, prices vary, with mains starting at a relatively affordable Dh125 for the golubtsy (minced beef and rice stuffed cabbage).
Caviar Kaspia is open daily from noon. For reservations, call 04 243 5633.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
