My UK Life: the Omani jewellery designer who uses scent to invoke the Middle East

In a new series, The National speaks to Arabs living in the UK about their jobs, hopes and dreams. Hanan Sultan honed her craft in London and has been nicknamed 'the queen of rubies'

Jeweller Hanan Sultan says London is not just a home for her, but also a major source of inspiration. Photo: Hanan Sultan

Scent is very important to Hanan Sultan, a soft-spoken Omani who exudes the soft, woody fragrance of oud – subtle yet noticeable.

“It’s a very cultural, traditional thing people do,” she told The National. “We wear perfume and burn incense. The perfume will catch on to the incense smell, because it’s a bit damp. So when it dries it clings very well.”

It is perhaps no surprise, then, that when the jewellery designer was planning her final project at London’s famed Central Saint Martins college, she chose to use Omani frankincense, which releases its scent when heated by the body.

Hanan Sultan used Omani frankincense in jewellery for her final project at London’s Central Saint Martins college. Photo: Hanan Sultan

It was not, however, an easy process. She spent nine months experimenting with the resin, which, as far as she could tell, had never been used in jewellery before.

“I used moulds for the frankincense and manipulated them with my hand,” she said. “Over time, they would change shape. So then I thought I need to find a way to protect them. So that’s when I thought of the idea of using a traditional jewellery bezel and inlaying it.”

She has taken inspiration from her heritage for other pieces too, including a crown inspired by the kuma, the cap Omanis wear, which she made for another commission.

Hanan Sultan studied in London, where all her jewellery is still hallmarked. Photo: Hanan Sultan

She is currently building her own jewellery brand, which aims to offer luxurious and timeless pieces, while continuing to work on bespoke jewellery projects as a freelance jewellery designer and consultant.

Ms Sultan moved back to the Middle East after completing her course at Saint Martins and earning an MA in jewellery and metal at the Royal College of Art. She now lives in Dubai but visits Oman and London regularly.

She said all her jewellery is still hallmarked in the British capital, where most of her industry connections are based.

A Hojari frankincense necklace made with silk thread and 9ct gold. Photo: Hanan Sultan

“London isn't just a home for me where I love to spend time with my family and friends, it's also a major source of inspiration,” she said.

One of her favourite activities is roaming around Hatton Garden, London’s diamond district, where she sources all her stones. “My speciality stone, my favourite stones, are rubies,” she said.

“My friends call me the queen of rubies. Red is my favourite colour but they are also in my family heirlooms a lot, especially my grandmother’s jewellery, which has been passed down to my mum. And she has been given jewellery also, with rubies, from my grandmother.”

One of Ms Sultan's gold-plated silver hair clips adorned with lab-grown rubies. Photo: Hanan Sultan

Ms Sultan also likes working with lab-grown stones, which she began experimenting with at university. They are a particularly good option for young people who want to wear fine jewellery but cannot afford natural stones, she said.

She admits her pieces are on the more expensive side. “I like to stick to fine jewellery on the higher end, just because in my region people like to spend more. I think it’s safer for people to be wearing jewellery out there. And I think traditionally and culturally, women do wear more than 18-carat,” she said.

Hanan Sultan working at her jewellery bench. London. Photo: Hanan Sultan

She moved away from contemporary jewellery after graduating but does not rule out returning to it at some point.

“I always knew I wanted to do fine, high jewellery, although still sticking to bespoke, because I really like that. Maybe one day I will bring it back. Maybe I will do a small drop using frankincense or something.”