Parents in Dubai are demanding transparency in the school uniform industry, as families raise concerns over paying premium prices for synthetic garments that some claim contain harmful chemicals.
Matthew Benjamin, founder of sustainable uniform supplier Kapes, recently launched a website called Uniform Truth, alongside a petition that highlights the community’s desires for industry regulation.
The website allows parents to compare what they paid for uniforms against manufacturing costs, revealing markups Mr Benjamin said reach 10 times the production price.
“A polo shirt that costs Dh12 to manufacture is being sold to parents for Dh120,” he said. “Schools then have a revenue share with the supplier. They’re often exclusive contracts, so the supplier has no incentive to price fairly – and the school is getting a cut of it.” This can sometimes reach up to a 40 per cent revenue share, he said, and it is common practice in the industry.
The campaign has struck a chord with parents across Dubai who say they’re paying between Dh1,600 to Dh2,000 a year to clothe their children for school, with little choice over where to shop due to the exclusive supplier contracts.
‘No logical correlation between price and quality’
Mona Jaber, owner of kids' concept store Maison Tini, who has two school-age children, said the disconnect between price and quality is vast. “We paid Dh2,000 for their uniforms and each kid got only two to three sets of the regular uniform and PE kits. That’s a total of eight to nine sets,” she told The National, adding that these are the kind of prices you would pay for premium, organic, sustainable-certified materials, but instead they’re getting nylon and polyester.
“There is no logical correlation between price and quality,” she said. “Our kids spend all day in this uniform and a lot of them come home itching or complaining.
“Our kids deserve better. We want to offer our kids the best in everything. We eat organic, we buy 100 per cent cotton, we enrol them in progressive schools that charge a premium. We’ve paid for better quality, we need to receive it.”
A matter of health and environment
Mr Benjamin, who has worked in fashion and textiles since 2010, argues the standard uniforms on the market are “by nature bad for kids’ skin and the environment”. The entrepreneur pivoted from bespoke menswear to school uniforms during the pandemic after he recognised what he called a “massive challenge” in the industry.
“It’s like the fast fashion industry – people making these items aren’t paid or treated well, and conventional cotton or polyester is damaging to the environment and kids’ health.” Mr Benjamin also sent several uniforms to be chemically tested in 2020 and these came back positive for azo dyes, chemicals banned internationally due to links to cancer.
Regulations for basic testing requirements have since been introduced, but Mr Benjamin argues there is still not enough transparency in the industry and suppliers are able to “skirt around” the rules.
Several parents The National spoke to shared Mr Benjamin’s health concerns. One Dubai mother, who asked to be identified only as Nat, said her sons’ uniforms cost about Dh1,600 this year. “Children’s health should come first. If they’re expected to spend the entire day in a uniform, then it should be made from 100 per cent natural fabrics. These materials should be breathable and prevent skin irritation,” she said.
“For the price we’re paying, uniforms should be at a minimum 100 per cent cotton or linen, but what they’re selling us is these synthetic fibres like polyester blends that trap heat and sweat, which is not only uncomfortable but can also contribute to rashes and skin conditions, especially for younger children.”
The quality debate
At Swiss International Scientific School Dubai, parents have launched their own petition calling for cotton and natural fibre options, with GOTS or OEKO-TEX certification, which is a gold standard in the industry. The school currently uses predominantly polyester and nylon uniforms.
Ruth Burke, principal of SISD, said the school is responsive to parent concerns. “As a result of one of our regular meetings with parents, we introduced a cotton top last year following parent feedback,” she said, adding that the school will “continue working with parents to ensure our uniform provider offers uniforms in a range of textiles to suit students’ preferences”.
She emphasised that “our suppliers ensure regulatory textiles certification, giving parents assurance of quality”.
Not all parents are concerned with quality, however. Laura B, a mother of two boys aged seven and nine who recently moved to Dubai from Singapore, said while prices are undoubtedly high, she is happy with the materials used. “In Singapore, kids’ uniforms were cotton, and they looked worn out after a few months of using and washing them,” she said. “Also, the kids complained they were hot, so sports material better suits the hot climate. I don’t know if these were specifically organic or sustainable, but you need to buy them more often than [the outfits we have now], which last longer.”
Mr Benjamin recently sent more uniforms to be tested and is currently awaiting those results. He has also launched a health and sustainability scorecard on his website to help schools evaluate their uniform suppliers, although he said he believes many administrators are reluctant to investigate.
“I think most schools are unaware of the health implications that their uniforms could have, whereas some may not want to open Pandora’s box," he said.
The National reached out to several schools and one of the city's biggest uniform suppliers, but none were willing to comment directly on the high costs and materials used.
Schools respond to affordability issues
Affordability remains a key issue. Some schools have attempted to address this through second-hand uniform initiatives. At GEMS World Academy Dubai, a preloved uniform shop opened this year, offering donated items at reduced prices with proceeds supporting parent association activities.
Luke Suniga, head of sustainability at GEMS Founders School Dubai South, said their Sustain A Uniform programme has allowed families to buy second-hand items for just Dh5 to Dh15. “The response was outstanding as hundreds of uniform items found new homes, significantly reducing textile waste and lowering costs for parents.”
The funds raised from the initiative supported the introduction of hydroponic systems that enabled students to grow fresh produce at the school, which they sold this term, he added.
“Proceeds from the uniform sales are also being invested into developing our new Student Garden, which will become a hands-on learning space where students will grow plants, care for them and deepen their understanding of the circular economy and food sustainability,” said Mr Suniga.
