Sadiq Al Hassoun flips wistfully through photographs, mostly black and white, taken by foreign visitors that show his hometown of Basra, in southern Iraq, during its glory days.
Some images show busy scenes where Shanasheel houses – traditional homes with intricately carved wooden windows and balconies – overlook the Ashar Canal that meanders through the city, helping it to earn the nickname “Venice of the East”.
“It was a paradise,” Mr Al Hassoun, 65, tells The National, recalling how people used to swim in the canal used by small boats and larger merchant ships. The image of people descending the stairs to get water for drinking and washing is still etched in his memory.
“All that went, starting from the late 1960s, due to neglect and decades of war that not only led to the loss of lives but also the heritage of the whole city,” he adds, a sense of regret and pain in his voice.
Founded in 636AD, Basra, about 530km south of Baghdad, was a major centre of trade, culture and Islamic scholarship. It endured heavy fighting during the Iran-Iraq War from 1980 to 1988, a bloody uprising against former dictator Saddam Hussein in 1991 and clashes between government forces and local militias in 2008.
More recently, the city witnessed violent demonstrations as part of the pro-democracy movement that began in October 2019, as well as protests against a lack of public services. Although Basra province is rich in oil, for years its main city looked to be forgotten by history and battered by repeated conflicts.
But because of Iraq's improving security situation and political stability in recent years, Basra has undergone a facelift through various projects funded by local authorities and investors. The city hosted the 2023 Arabian Gulf Cup football tournament, as well as several matches for the Iraqi national team.
Among the projects to boost Basra was an initiative led by Unesco, with funding from the EU, to revive what remains of the Shanasheel houses and the Ashar Canal, which have been hit hard by urban development and the water scarcity that plagues Iraq.
Through the efforts of the UN cultural agency, the EU and Iraq's Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Antiquities, 11 Shanasheel-style heritage houses have been restored, along with a section of the canal and eight bridges.
'Return to our roots'
The Shanasheel houses, with their distinctive protruding wooden balconies, some dating back to the Ottoman era, were on the verge of collapse. Three are palatial homes used by official organisations – the Culture Palace, the Writers’ Association and the Association of Plastic Artists in Basra.
These homes were owned by dignitaries including Abdul Latif Al Mandil, Iraq's first minister of trade, and the family of Khazaal Al Kaabi, ruler of Arabistan, in what is now Iran. Others belonged to Jewish and Christian families.
“This area is rich with stories of its former inhabitants, stories of figures who influenced and shaped the modern history of Basra,” said Tamara Al Attiya, a professor at Basra University and founder of the Qantara Cultural Foundation.
Established in 2023, the foundation is dedicated to promoting culture and art in Basra and to fostering creativity and community engagement through artistic initiatives and programmes. It is based in one of the houses in the Old City.
Ms Al Attiya feels globalisation has contributed to a loss of cultural identity. “That's why today there's a need for us to feel our identity, our uniqueness and the things that differentiate us from others, and to return us to our roots and authenticity,” she said.
The Shanasheel houses are the “last remaining heritage testament”, she says. “We've lost a lot them and we must not lose more due to their significance,” she adds.
New lease of life
The restoration project is slowly reviving Basra's past glory and providing a beacon of hope for its residents, including Mr Al Hassoun. “It feels like a part of me returning to life,” he says.
Since 2012, he has taken up the struggle of preserving and showcasing his hometown’s heritage. That was the year local authorities gave him a space in the Culture Palace to display antiques he had collected since 1980s.
Three years later, he bought a house in the heart of the Old City where, with funding from the UN, he established Al Hassoun Museum, which includes a restaurant serving traditional fare. Built in the 1930s by a Christian dignitary, the stunning two-storey building is crafted in the Eastern House style. At its heart is a courtyard surrounded by a tapestry of rooms and wooden pillars. A staircase ascends to the upper floor, which mirrors the beauty of the ground floor.
The museum is treasure trove of antiques, lovingly curated and displayed in gleaming cases or arranged on walls and floors. Every object whispers tales of its storied past, spanning at least two centuries.
Ottoman-era documents, yellowed with age, reveal a chapter of the city's rich history, recording property transactions, marriages, insurance contracts and mortgages. Lanterns that once lit the streets and homes stand alongside charcoal-heated irons, as well as antique televisions, radios and exquisite pieces of furniture from a bygone era.
The relics include old wooden cameras, children's toys, Ottoman and French rifles and train lanterns. There is also a steamer dangling from the ceiling above intricately carved bridal trousseau chests that tell tales of love, family and tradition.
“Any foreigner who comes to Basra visits Al Hassoun Museum because it has become an icon,” says Mr Al Hassoun, who has so far received visitors from 83 countries.
“It's a wonderful thing for me. I've achieved something and fulfilled a dream,” he adds, sitting in a room featuring a collection of framed documents.
When members of the Iraqi diaspora step into the museum, they “can't hold back their tears, as it transports them back to the beautiful past they lived in”, he says. Some ask about lost belongings or people they lost contact with.
“I feel like I’m a guardian to Basra’s heritage and I’m proud to protect it,” he says.
