Egyptian entrepreneurs escape daily grind to brew success with cars converted to cafes


Kamal Tabikha
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  • Arabic

Those in search of a pick-me-up on the streets of Cairo need look no further than the roadside for a cup of coffee. Dotted throughout the city, entrepreneurs have turned their cars into portable coffee carts, serving hot drinks from the boot.

In the capital's 6 October district, sandwiched between gated communities and a large industrial zone, Youssef Shalaby, 16, serves thirsty customers.

The teenager, with his father, brother and uncle, converted an old microbus to make some extra cash as Covid-19 job losses began to bite.

“I spend most of my time on this coffee cart. My brother and I take turns manning it so it stays operational 24 hours a day. Unless I’m in school or asleep, I am working here,” Youssef tells The National.

The location means the group caters to a variety of clientele, from upper-class citizens from the gated communities to lorry drivers taking the motorway out of Greater Cairo and towards the Mediterranean coast.

A makeshift coffee shop made from a converted microbus on the streets of Cairo. Kamal Tabikha / The National
A makeshift coffee shop made from a converted microbus on the streets of Cairo. Kamal Tabikha / The National

Youssef began working for his father, who owns a couple of other coffee and cigarette kiosks located on two other main roads, when he was only 14 years old.

“Because of the locations of our kiosks, we rely on travelling motorists for our business, but when the lockdown turned Cairo into a ghost town, my father chose a motorway that was close to some residential areas.

"It was a smart move, because for a few months, this converted car was our family’s only income. It became very popular with young Egyptians looking to leave their home quarantines for a little while,” he said.

About 20 kilometres north-east of Youssef’s makeshift cafe, in the district of Mohandessin, Shahd and her best friend Mahmoud operate their own coffee car. But while Youssef's converted microbus is unassuming and practical, Shahd’s converted 1960s Volkswagen Beetle is more stylish and equipped with a more sophisticated coffee machine.

“I had been a barista at a number of cafes before I decided to strike out on my own and start this car. I did not find service jobs easy and the fact that I am a woman meant that I was subjected to a lot of harassment,” says Shahd, 35.

Youssef, 16, makes coffee at his father's portable cafe. The makeshift coffee shop is built into a converted microbus. Kamal Tabikha / The National
Youssef, 16, makes coffee at his father's portable cafe. The makeshift coffee shop is built into a converted microbus. Kamal Tabikha / The National

Shahd’s mental state was deeply affected by the difficulties she faced in her past jobs. She refuses to have her car photographed, explaining that her work experience has taught her that it is safer to keep one’s head down and not draw too much attention.

She says that after a troublesome marriage with a controlling man ended in a long-winded divorce earlier this year, she was finally able to launch her own business.

“I wanted to work on my own terms, and because I have been working as a waitress or a barista since my early 20s, I decided to just do what I know and open this coffee car,” she says.

Although she now makes more money than ever before and enjoys the luxury of deciding her own working hours, she says that in the busy Cairo streets, harassment is still a regular source of distress for her.

Lily, 5, waits in the front seat of a Jeep that has been converted into a mobile coffee shop while her mother finishes her shift. Kamal Tabikha / The National
Lily, 5, waits in the front seat of a Jeep that has been converted into a mobile coffee shop while her mother finishes her shift. Kamal Tabikha / The National

“Shahd came to me to help her with her project. We have been neighbours and best friends for over 10 years,” says Mahmoud, who mans the car with Shahd during her night shifts.

While his main role in the business is to provide Shahd with protection and a helping hand while she works, another perhaps more important responsibility of his is going to the local police station to plead with the officers to return Shahd’s coffee machine, which is regularly confiscated because she does not have the permits needed to operate.

“Permits are very hard to come by for this kind of business. We are not well-connected people, so although we have applied several times, we have been repeatedly rejected,” Mahmoud says.

Youssef’s family, on the other hand, who have been in the kiosk business for more than a decade, have become well connected enough to avoid having their equipment confiscated.

A coffee vendor makes coffee for a customer on a Cairo street. Kamal Tabikha / The National
A coffee vendor makes coffee for a customer on a Cairo street. Kamal Tabikha / The National

Although the majority of Cairo’s converted coffee cars are unlicensed, Rahma, 27, works on one that managed to receive permits because it is owned by an entrepreneur from an affluent family.

“I answered an ad earlier this year on Facebook. Someone was looking for a barista to work on a converted coffee car. After looking for work for a few months and not finding anything suitable, I decided to accept the position because it allowed me to bring my daughter to work,” said Rahma, whose five-year-old daughter, Lily, is lounging in the front seat of a 1997 Jeep Cherokee. The car is parked at a nearby garage every evening.

The car’s owner, who has a newer model for his personal use, comes down every morning to drive it to its spot for the day, and returns in the evening to take it back to the garage.

Also recently divorced, Rahma had worked as a checkout teller at a Cairo pharmacy for 10 years before she was fired in 2020 after the pandemic forced the owners to downsize.

“I couldn’t find a job that would allow me to bring Lily to work with me every day. I am not on great terms with my family or my husband’s family, it’s just me and her. I thought about day-care centres, but they’re expensive and most of them close before my shift is over on most days,” says Rahma. She hopes this will get easier when Lily starts kindergarten next year.

Prices at each coffee car vary, depending on the type of drink being served. Youssef keeps things simple, offering three kinds of drinks – Turkish coffee, plain or with milk, and tea – that he sells for EGP 5 ($0.32) each. Shahd, with her barista background, offers plain coffee and tea for EGP 7 ($0.45) each, in addition to cappuccinos and lattes which cost EGP 15 ($1). As for Rahma, she offers espresso, Turkish coffee and tea for EGP 10 ($0.64) and cappuccinos and lattes for EGP 20 ($1.27).

if you go

The flights

Flydubai flies to Podgorica or nearby Tivat via Sarajevo from Dh2,155 return including taxes. Turkish Airlines flies from Abu Dhabi and Dubai to Podgorica via Istanbul; alternatively, fly with Flydubai from Dubai to Belgrade and take a short flight with Montenegro Air to Podgorica. Etihad flies from Abu Dhabi to Podgorica via Belgrade. Flights cost from about Dh3,000 return including taxes. There are buses from Podgorica to Plav. 

The tour

While you can apply for a permit for the route yourself, it’s best to travel with an agency that will arrange it for you. These include Zbulo in Albania (www.zbulo.org) or Zalaz in Montenegro (www.zalaz.me).

 

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs

Engine: 1.6-litre 4-cyl turbo

Power: 217hp at 5,750rpm

Torque: 300Nm at 1,900rpm

Transmission: eight-speed auto

Price: from Dh130,000

On sale: now

Water waste

In the UAE’s arid climate, small shrubs, bushes and flower beds usually require about six litres of water per square metre, daily. That increases to 12 litres per square metre a day for small trees, and 300 litres for palm trees.

Horticulturists suggest the best time for watering is before 8am or after 6pm, when water won't be dried up by the sun.

A global report published by the Water Resources Institute in August, ranked the UAE 10th out of 164 nations where water supplies are most stretched.

The Emirates is the world’s third largest per capita water consumer after the US and Canada.

What vitamins do we know are beneficial for living in the UAE

Vitamin D: Highly relevant in the UAE due to limited sun exposure; supports bone health, immunity and mood.Vitamin B12: Important for nerve health and energy production, especially for vegetarians, vegans and individuals with absorption issues.Iron: Useful only when deficiency or anaemia is confirmed; helps reduce fatigue and support immunity.Omega-3 (EPA/DHA): Supports heart health and reduces inflammation, especially for those who consume little fish.

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs

Engine: 2.0-litre 4cyl turbo

Power: 261hp at 5,500rpm

Torque: 405Nm at 1,750-3,500rpm

Transmission: 9-speed auto

Fuel consumption: 6.9L/100km

On sale: Now

Price: From Dh117,059

Five expert hiking tips
    Always check the weather forecast before setting off Make sure you have plenty of water Set off early to avoid sudden weather changes in the afternoon Wear appropriate clothing and footwear Take your litter home with you
MWTC info

Tickets to the MWTC range from Dh100 and can be purchased from www.ticketmaster.ae or by calling 800 86 823 from within the UAE or 971 4 366 2289 from outside the country and all Virgin Megastores. Fans looking to attend all three days of the MWTC can avail of a special 20 percent discount on ticket prices.

THE BIO

Ms Al Ameri likes the variety of her job, and the daily environmental challenges she is presented with.

Regular contact with wildlife is the most appealing part of her role at the Environment Agency Abu Dhabi.

She loves to explore new destinations and lives by her motto of being a voice in the world, and not an echo.

She is the youngest of three children, and has a brother and sister.

Her favourite book, Moby Dick by Herman Melville helped inspire her towards a career exploring  the natural world.

Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

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The Africa Institute 101

Housed on the same site as the original Africa Hall, which first hosted an Arab-African Symposium in 1976, the newly renovated building will be home to a think tank and postgraduate studies hub (it will offer master’s and PhD programmes). The centre will focus on both the historical and contemporary links between Africa and the Gulf, and will serve as a meeting place for conferences, symposia, lectures, film screenings, plays, musical performances and more. In fact, today it is hosting a symposium – 5-plus-1: Rethinking Abstraction that will look at the six decades of Frank Bowling’s career, as well as those of his contemporaries that invested social, cultural and personal meaning into abstraction. 

Bio

Age: 25

Town: Al Diqdaqah – Ras Al Khaimah

Education: Bachelors degree in mechanical engineering

Favourite colour: White

Favourite place in the UAE: Downtown Dubai

Favourite book: A Life in Administration by Ghazi Al Gosaibi.

First owned baking book: How to Be a Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson.

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Updated: October 17, 2021, 10:06 AM