The welcome
The site of the hotel has a gilded history dating back to 1849, but, unfortunately, most of its period character has been lost, and today’s incarnation is a 10-storey modern block fronting onto a very busy main road. My first brush with the hotel comes 10 days before my stay, when I call to ask if it’s possible to leave a bag there until I arrive. I’m told yes, though when I turn up with a large orange holdall, the doorman seems less than delighted. It’s a different story when I actually do check in: I’m welcomed like it’s my home.
The neighbourhood
The hotel sits on a corner at 116 Piccadilly, opposite Green Park. The streets of Mayfair sit behind it, and there’s no doubt that this is still one of the most attractive, exclusive and expensive parts of the British capital. It’s very popular with Gulf visitors during summer, and much of the property in the area is now Arab-owned.
The scene
Half of the hotel’s guests are on business, and the other half leisure – and most of those are American, in London to visit friends and take in shows and events. Although the hotel is apparently full, it doesn’t feel full, and the restaurant and bar have an exclusive, almost decadent ambience, with some art deco styling and dim lighting in the evening. There’s a front outside terrace, but it lacks the sense of privacy of the indoor areas. In the bar I meet an Italian-American couple who are real-estate agents, from Orange County in California, who say they prefer this hotel to the Ritz, just down the road, where they felt the staff “talked down to them”.
The room
My room is on the second floor facing the main road. It is less private than I would like, as when a double-decker bus passes by, I can see the passengers upstairs from my window. Despite triple glazing I can hear some road noise, but more aggravating is the fact that I’m woken up at 3.30am by loudly bleeping trucks putting up flags for an event. I complain the next day as this detracts from the wonderfully comfortable bed and otherwise cosy experience. Those sensitive to noise may prefer a “courtyard” room at the back; there are 164 rooms including 18 apartments and 12 suites. The bath is short and I have to call maintenance to fix the air conditioning, which isn’t cold enough.
The service
Staff are all very obliging, and you get the sense that you’re being taken seriously rather than fobbed off.
The food
At dinner, we love the caramelised goat’s cheese with onion marmalade and mixed leaves (£10 [Dh52]); the seared scallops (£16; [Dh83]); and the fish and chips (£24; [Dh125]). The breakfast is a good continental buffet plus a hot selection, but I have to complain about my cappuccino to get one that is made properly.
Loved
The location (especially good if you’re travelling through Heathrow) and sense of homeliness combined with exclusivity.
Hated
Being placed on the second floor, facing the main road.
The verdict
A good and popular hotel in a prime location, with comfortable rooms and good service and food. The hotel is currently under renovation, which will be completed by the end of May.
The bottom line
Double rooms at The Athenaeum Hotel & Apartments, 116 Piccadilly, London (0044 2036 420 997), cost from £239 (Dh1,240) per night including taxes.
rbehan@thenational.ae
