Liwa Village, an Abu Dhabi festival with family at its heart

Located in Al Dhafra, the annual event has grown in stature, attracting visitors from across the country and beyond

Liwa Village at Al Dhafra Region, Abu Dhabi. All photos Victor Besa / The National

The festival has a circus performance by Beirut's Cirque du Liban

The Winasa Zone is home to a heritage village

Plenty of games to play at the festival

Rides include a Ferris wheel and bumper cars

Each zone is an offshute of the village's central square

Entry way to Wanasa Zone

The petting zoo at Liwa Village

Liwa Village has a large Ferris wheel at its center

Hollywood Circus vy Cirque du Liban at Liwa Village

Baked mussels is on offer at Liwa Village

Bike riding showcases can also be seen at Liwa Village

You can also buy the latest ouds from Liwa Village

When it comes to making henna, the magic lies in the mix. This is what Umm Aisha tells the small crowd, hunched on their knees to be at eye level with the Emirati stylist in one of the many heritage quarters at Abu Dhabi's Liwa Village.

“It's not just about finding quality henna powder,” she explains. “You also need to mix it with essential oils and maybe a dash of water to get the right consistency. Too little, and it just looks pale. Too much, and it looks thick and muddy on your hands.”

Demonstrating her technique with precision, she adds: “Then it’s all about keeping a steady hand and making your lines with a flowing movement.”

We are in the Wanasa Zone, one of six areas within Liwa Village, an annual family festival organised by Department of Culture and Tourism Abu Dhabi and held in the capital's Al Dhafra region. Located two hours from the city centre and running until January 4, the event continues to grow in size while retaining its community spirit.

The Petting Zoo at Liwa Village. Victor Besa / The National

Meaning conversation, the Wanasa section is a thriving communal hub with a majlis, cafe stalls and a petting zoo with various animals including rabbits.

Each zone is distinctive, defined by either emotions or activities, even if they are not directly interlinked. Meydan, for example, is where the shrieks of children ensnared in an escape room mingle with the quiet appreciation of art installations and canvasses depicting desert landscapes in the nearby Art Vibes Hall, created by local artists.

Meanwhile, Tarab Liwa, home to a stage for concerts and dance showcases, sits near the hustle and bustle of the souk, where you can find everything from traditional handicrafts to the latest oud brands. All zones branch out from the central area, which features children’s rides, including bumper cars and a glowing Ferris wheel.

It is here where I see Anwar Abdallah with his two children. A proud “Liwani,” meaning he resides in the nearbye region, he captures the ethos of the festival.

“It’s getting bigger and bigger but’s it doesn’t feel overwhelming, you know what I mean?” he says. “This is an event that you feel is tailor-made for our community here and that means it's friendly, has lots of places to gather and has the family at its heart. We love it for the atmosphere and we are grateful that we do have something like this.”

Hollywood Circus by Cique du Liban at Liwa Village. Victor Besa / The National

Also on offer is a nightly performance by Beirut’s famed Cirque Du Liban. Held in a purpose-built tent, the 60-minute show, split across two intervals, is traditional in the best sense. There’s no high-tech stage wizardry, just simple, death-defying aerial stunts and timeless slapstick comedy performed by a lively gaggle of clowns.

Next on the circuit is a pop-up vintage car exhibition by the Emirates National Auto Museum, which also has a permanent location in Al Dhafra. Here, is a collection of classic off-road vehicles, including a 1970 Series One Range Rover, alongside vintage Ferraris and Mercedes convertibles. Some of the displays take on extra resonance, accompanied by historical photos of the UAE’s Founding Father, Sheikh Zayed, standing beside them and overlooking the desert.

All that strolling between zones should take a good three hours, which will help build a healthy appetite. Liwa Village is dotted with cash-free food trucks serving everything from premium burgers to noodles and tacos. Those looking for more traditional fare should seek out the many stalls offering karak tea and luqaimat.

The entry way to Liwa Village. Victor Besa / The National

There I spot Saud Al Bad, a first-time visitor to Liwa Village from Al Ain. “The reputation of the festival is spreading, and what made us come is not the big events, but that it still feels intimate,” he says. “In the UAE, we are blessed with so many amazing events, but sometimes they can become too big just for the sake of it and that makes people turn away. Here, it feels like a community event, and the parking is easy – well, we are in the desert after all, so that shouldn’t be a problem.”

Liwa Village is set to leave an even bigger impression. For the first time, it will be one of the hubs for Abu Dhabi's New Year's Eve celebrations, featuring a concert by Kuwait’s oud virtuoso Abadi Al Johar and Iraqi singer Rahma Riad.

The accompanying fireworks display promises to deliver thrills even greater than those of the village’s escape room, while perhaps offering a fitting challenge to Umm Aisha’s steady hand.

Liwa Village is running until January 4. Entry tickets are Dh10 and the venue is open from 4pm until midnight from Sunday to Thursday and 3pm until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays