How did Almaz by Momo come to the UAE?
It all started about 10 years ago with me making a pop-up stall at Selfridges in London. It made some buzz because it was an Arabic restaurant right in the middle of this department store. It was very strange for people, but popular, and I was approached to see if I was interested in opening a store in Dubai. A few months later, I travelled to the UAE to check out the Sharjah Biennial and spent a few days extra to visit Dubai. To be honest with you, I couldn’t find any Arabic place that was elegant for the locals. It was bars and cafes mostly catering to Europeans and expats. So after seeing that gap, I decided to open up the restaurant in Mall of the Emirates, which was about to be built. It became really successful and when an opportunity arose to come to Abu Dhabi, I said, yes, why not?
Almaz by Momo in Abu Dhabi is also different for you in that it’s the first time you have opened a new branch of an existing restaurant. What made you decide to do that?
Although it is the same name, the Almaz in Abu Dhabi is a different concept. The place here at The Galleria has more space and there is a terrace. It is a modern Arabian cafe in my eyes. It’s elegant and contemporary. If you look at the place, there is nothing that stands out as being totally Arabic, but the feel is Arabic, if you know what I mean. I wanted a place that lives with its time.
Your restaurants here and abroad are always known for their joyful spirit and confidence, both from the staff and the food on offer. Is that important to you?
Look, I don’t want to bend. I think this comes from my Algerian background. When I opened my first restaurant in Paris, Au Bascou, I wanted it to be confident and celebrate Arab culture. I was sick of seeing other Arab restaurants where I felt they were subjugating the people. I didn’t want that. We are the same as everyone else. We can contribute. We can make something that we are proud of and if Europeans and expats come, well that’s good, but this is for us, first.
Do you apply this mix of tradition and modernity in the menu?
Indeed, our menu is a mix of mainly Moroccan, Lebanese and modern dishes. We have our soups of the day, which are not always Arabic. We also have an organic lentil salad – also a mix of different cultures. We have a hammour carpaccio, a traditional dish that is presented in a modern way. We also have fattoush, but it is not as bitter as some Lebanese restaurants make it. We try to modernise the dishes. How come the French, Americans and Australians can do that with Arabic dishes and it’s labelled as “cool” and when we do, we are faced with people saying “This is not Moroccan, or Lebanese”? I reply: “Why can’t we be modern? Why should we be always trapped in tradition?”
What is your view on the restaurant scene here?
I don’t look at other restaurants and I don’t judge. As a restaurateur, the competition does not interest me. What does interest me is people – meeting interesting customers in my place and hearing their stories and experiences. That excites and inspires me.
• Almaz by Momo is in The Galleria, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi. For reservations, call 02 676 7702
