British Michelin-star chef Tom Aikens has branched out from fine dining into the casual market with Tom’s Kitchen Deli in Dubai – his first international deli outlet – but there is nothing lackadaisical about the way the burgers and burritos are produced in this kitchen.
“Have you put cheese in the burrito? No? That’s what I’m saying, wait for me. I’ll have to make it with you,” says Aikens as he instructs one of his cooks to redo a breakfast burrito during his recent visit to his new Dubai Parks and Resorts restaurant at Riverland.
Aikens is this week putting the final touches to the deli’s menu before he hands over the reins to chef Cuneyt Gokdemir.
"I don't treat food any differently. If I'm doing casual or fine dining, I still want it to be the best," says the 46-year-old, who has made several television appearances, including on Great British Menu. "It doesn't matter if it's a burger or a duck confit, at the end of the day it has to be a good-quality product."
When he was starting out, Aikens pushed hard to make a career of his interest in cooking after one of his teachers doubted he could make a name for himself. At the age of 16, Aikens enrolled at the Norwich City College Hotel School, and by 26 he was the youngest British chef to earn two Michelin stars.
It hasn’t been all smooth sailing, though. Tom’s Place, his restaurant in London’s Chelsea went bust in 2008, but now he is back with a whole new concept.
“I’ve proven myself enough in terms of what I’ve done, so that’s not it anymore,” he says. “I’m confident enough that the product is good, so it always comes down to delivery and service.”
Aikens is pleased to have the chance to offer an outlet catering to the casual-dining trend popular in the UAE.
“People in Dubai are definitely eating out more and willing to try new things,” he says.
“And the casual-dining market is leading the way. That’s because it is more accessible, affordable for people to be able to eat out three or four times. It ticks a lot more boxes with people.”
The TKD interior is playful, with a massive magenta installation hanging from the ceiling, and long, communal tables with short stools in the centre.
The place has a 1950s cafe feel, with wide tables and booths throughout.
Customers can order sandwiches, wraps, burgers, pizzas, doughnuts and crepes off the all-day menu.
The restaurant will also serve breakfast options, including freshly baked croissants, pancakes, French toast, breakfast burritos and fried eggs, while the grab-and-go section will be stocked with fresh juices, fruit and muesli pots.
Though the deli is marketed as a fast-food restaurant with a twist, Aikens hesitates to use that label and is quick to acknowledge he isn’t a fast-food fan, generally.
“But, there is a first for everything,” he adds. “It’s very different from what we’ve done before but it isn’t fast food. I look at it as more ‘fast-casual’, because of the quality the products are still very good. The food is fast in terms of the speed and process in our kitchen.”
The Tom’s Kitchen Burger with pickled cucumber, smoked cheddar, ketchup and mustard, and the cured beef and Parmesan pizza might look much the same as something from a gourmet fast-food outlet, but Aikens promises a bite in their interpretation that will please those familiar with his cooking.
“We make our own dough for the pizza. So part of it is a sourdough base for which we use natural yeast for better flavour. We make our own buns, relishes and chutneys from scratch for our burgers and hot dogs. All our doughnuts are freshly made every day. So we aren’t buying anything.”
Aikens also alludes to the possibility of Tom’s Kitchen – his stylish brasserie chain – being his next addition to Dubai’s culinary scene.
“We are looking at what’s happening with the industry here,” he says. “We are definitely planning on doing a Tom’s Kitchen at some point.”
• Tom’s Kitchen Deli is at Boardwalk in Riverland – Dubai Parks and Resorts and is Aikens’s second UAE venture following the launch of Pots, Pans & Boards last year. For details, visit www.tomskitchen.co.uk/dubai
aahmed@thenational.ae
