Dubai is hardly short of Indian restaurants, but Jodhpur Bar and Kitchen enters the field with a more specific proposition and culinary kick.
The newcomer on the ground floor of Hyatt Place Dubai Jumeirah focuses on Rajasthan, the north-western Indian state known for its desert landscape, royal kitchens and richly spiced vegetarian and meat dishes. That clear sense of place gives Jodhpur (named after the state's opulent Blue City) its purpose and culinary kick.
First impressions
Imagine the dining room of the Titanic reimagined by Rajasthani royals, and you are close to the look of Jodhpur Bar and Kitchen. The restaurant favours deep ocean blues, arched forms, mahogany furniture, royal portraits, patterned cushions, and ornate objects that evoke Rajasthan’s palaces and forts.
Tables are arranged for couples and larger groups, with a row of bench seating adding a more casual option.
There is also a small stage with a piano and two stools, which staff say will be used for a future series of low-key Rajasthani folk music performances.
The menu
The menu is uncluttered and clearly arranged, moving from chaats and salads to appetisers, mains, rice dishes and desserts.
The opening drinks ground the meal in the region. Pineapple shikanji (Dh45) is a bright, savoury-edged mocktail made with pineapple juice, roasted cumin, chaat masala and soda. It was my first time having cumin and spice carried in a fizzy drink, and I liked it: refreshing, especially if you prefer something savoury rather than sweet.
For those looking for something lighter, khamma ghani (Dh45), built on hibiscus, apple juice and soda, is gentler and more floral, with the carbonation stopping it from tipping into syrup.
The chaats are a mixed bag. Makhaniya dahi vada (Dh35), lentil dumplings served in saffron yoghurt with house chutneys, should be a cooling, creamy dish. Instead, I found the dumplings too doughy, while the yoghurt lacked the seasoning needed to lift the dish.
Much better is the ghewar chaat (Dh40). It arrives as a crisp Rajasthani honeycomb shell holding whipped yoghurt, dahi vada crumble, chutneys and a tamarind-fruit mix. The shell has a pleasing crunch, almost like a savoury kunafa-style chaat.
Nagauri methi paneer tikka (Dh45) is a lighter, more interesting take on the familiar Indian dish of marinated fresh cheese cooked in the tandoor.
The cubes are marinated in yoghurt and fenugreek, then cooked in the tandoor until soft, with a little char at the edges. The fenugreek brings a gentle bitterness, while kachri chutney, made from a small wild melon used in Rajasthani cooking, gives the dish a sharp tang.
The vegetarian main, titled Jodhpur At Its Best (Dh58), serves as a brief introduction to Marwari home cooking. It brings together three very different dishes: papad ki sabzi, where pieces of crisp poppadum are softened in a yoghurt-based curry; sweet churma, a crumbly mix of wheat, ghee and sugar; and crispy bhindi, or fried okra.
The okra, cut into twirly strings, gives the plate crunch, while the churma brings a warm, ghee-rich sweetness. As a compact survey of Marwari cooking, it is a fine introduction for diners new to the cuisine.
The recommended main was Sindhi mutton (Dh62), a slow-cooked, spice-rich curry served with pieces of mutton on the bone. The sauce looked alarmingly red, but the first spoonful did not set off the chilli fury it seemed to promise. Instead, the long cooking had settled the spices into the gravy, giving it a pleasant aromatic heat, while the mutton came away from the bone easily.
Make sure to order it with the Jodhpuri kabuli (Dh49), which was a revelation for me. This is not a typical biryani, but something more rich and colourful, layered with vegetables, nuts and fruit. Pomegranate seeds and sliced grapes bring little bursts of sweetness against the curd-based gravy beneath.
Dessert was thandai rasmalai (Dh49). The chenna discs are soaked in spiced milk carrying the flavours of thandai: almond, fennel, cardamom, rose, saffron and a faint trace of black pepper. Although I was full, this was cool, soft and gently spiced, and closed the meal on a generous note.
The verdict
Jodhpur is worth visiting if you are curious about Indian food beyond the staples. The meal is generous in flavour, and the staff speak proudly about the heritage being evoked, helping the restaurant stand apart from Dubai’s more familiar Indian dining rooms.
Jodhpur Bar and Kitchen, at Hyatt Place Dubai Jumeirah on Al Mina Street, is open daily from 6pm to 1am. Reservations can be made by contacting 056 546 6600.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
