A glowing orange-red disco ball hangs from the ceiling at the centre of the bar, its iridescent surface catching the eye of everyone who steps into the warmly lit space. Vinyl records line the walls near the entrance, while the hum of conversation and the rhythmic clatter from the kitchen fill the room – a striking contrast to the quiet night air outside.
Yubi Handroll Bar – in the lively 25 Jump Street, a line-up of licensed restaurants and bars at One Central in Dubai – is the first of its kind in the UAE: a home-grown concept by award-winning chef Reif Othman. Yubi, meaning “fingers” in Japanese, captures the spirit of the restaurant, where hand-rolled sushi is designed to be eaten just that way.
While Othman isn’t usually stationed behind the bar making every handroll himself, I had the rare pleasure of joining his intimate chef’s table.
The menu
To start, I was served a plate of traditionally pickled cucumber in fish sauce with sesame (Dh35) and a delicious tangy pickled daikon radish cut in thin slices (Dh25). This ultra-fresh combination set the mood for the meal and left me wanting more.
As part of a set menu, the next item I tried was a bowl of scallops, or hotate (Dh70), with umeboshi butter, made with a sour and salty Japanese pickled fruit. The plate was decorated with chives, flower petals and red yuzu kosho, a Japanese paste made from fermented red chilli peppers and yuzu. The scallops were light and tender and paired well with the salty butter and spicy, zesty paste.
Next were two nigiri dishes with complementary flavours. The first was the amadai nigiri, a white-pink seared tile fish topped with a dollop of caviar and truffle. One of the most expensive and rare fish in Japan, the amadai had a mildly sweet flavour, which was an interesting combination with the sharpness of the truffle. The second, the sayori nigiri, is a delicate and also mildly sweet silver-skinned fish topped with uni – creamy, rich sea urchin – making it a hearty bite.
While gyozas are typically uncomplicated and comforting, the Wagyu gyoza (Dh92 for three pieces) is perhaps the most elevated I've tried – and easily my favourite. Laid on ponzu salty, citrusy butter, the steamed beef gyoza was topped with a rare Wagyu cut, crispy onion and a splash of basil sauce.
This wonderful concoction, Yubi's signature dish, bursts with flavour and depth – a hug in a bite.
Although difficult to top, the handroll segment that followed held just as much promise.
Carefully crafted by Othman and offered to me by hand, each handroll brought the intimacy of sharing food and eating without cutlery, creating that connection between your food, fingertips and mouth.
First was the sake handroll (Dh29), made with fresh salmon and spicy gochujang mayo, delicately wrapped in a nori sheet – a basic comfort dish done well.
Second was the akami tuna and foie gras handroll (Dh58), an unconventional yet delicious combination between the lean and flavourful torched red tuna meat and the creamy, buttery French delicacy, tied together with a spritz of citrus juice.
Each month Yubi has a new special handroll on the menu. I tried the Dehesa-cured Wagyu and toro handroll, a non-traditional combination of salmon and dried A5 Wagyu brought from Japan, which has gone through a rigorous curing process that lasted up to 24 months. This was a wildly interesting concept, and although I would usually opt for a simpler choice, I enjoyed it the nonetheless.
Then there was anago furai, Wagyu and bone marrow handroll. A deeply satisfying scene to watch, the bone marrow was torched for a crisp outer layer to be paired with a rare-fried freshwater anago eel, and a warm, fatty slice of Wagyu beef. It was just as satisfying and luxurious to eat.
To settle the stomach and calm the soul after a hearty selection of meats and fish, I drank a bowl of seafood soup. The umami broth was comforting and deeply tasty – the perfect palate cleanser. The price varies for the miso soups so it's best to ask a staff member on the day.
The final savoury dish offered a twist on traditional ramen, featuring Japanese Asari clams. As a fan of seafood pasta, I found the sauce to be the perfect balance of creamy and salty.
Dessert was a combination of the popular castella Japanese sponge cake and nostalgic creme caramel, all drenched in a miso-caramel syrup faintly tinged with orange essence. Soft, childlike and elevated, this Japanese cheesecake-inspired treat is a wonderful end to the meal.
Verdict
I've tried many variations of sushi over the years and I didn't anticipate enjoying these handrolls so much. Seeing how a roll has been handmade just for you brings a connection to the food. And I am all for Yubi's enthusiasm to experiment with flavours and combinations that bring comfort and exquisiteness to the dining experience.
The other dishes also provide the same satisfaction, especially their Wagyu gyoza.
If you are seeking somewhere that offers a cosy atmosphere and delicious bites, look no further.
Contact information
Yubi is open Monday to Sunday from 12pm to 1am, walk-ins only. More information is available on 050 1987511.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
