Level Shoes in The Dubai Mall is furthering its fashion chops with the release of a collection for Birkenstock designed by students from Central Saint Martins. The designs will be available exclusively at a pop-up in Level Shoes until April 12.
Four years in the making, the project is the culmination of a partnership between the German shoe brand that can trace its origins to 1774, and the famous fashion institute that can boast the likes of Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Kim Jones, John Galliano and Giambattista Valli as alumni.
It all started in 2018, when Birkenstock invited students from Central Saint Martins' fashion history and theory course into the company archives for research, for a project that tasked the young creatives with merging Birkenstock DNA with their contemporary take on design.
Reviewed by a judging panel including Birkenstock chief executive Oliver Reichert, MA fashion course director Fabio Piras and fashion critic Sarah Mower, as well as previous CSM students Roksanda Ilincic and Mary Katrantzou, 10 finalists were shortlisted and given a bursary to develop their shoe.
A year later, four designs were selected to go forward to the production stage. With the finished products now on sale, each design has the name of the person behind it embossed into the footbed.
Reichert says of this bold approach that the company is pleased to support rising talents, whose innovative ideas pushed Birkenstock in new directions. "Experiencing the challenge to realise the product innovation delivered by these students is a good challenge. We are proud to have a proven impact on these early careers and are counting this as one of our most relevant projects," he said.
Here are the four designs you can browse or buy in Dubai.
The Moto
The Moto sandal by Alex Wolfe leans on Birkenstock’s deep orthopaedic knowledge, now blended with motocross-style protective gear. The leg covering, albeit made with Birkenstock's skin-friendly material Birko-Flor, marks a new shape for the shoemaker. The design is tall, but flexible and, crucially, it is also removable, leaving a more familiar shape.
Of his daring design, Wolfe explains that emerging designers often offer a unique perspective. "We are at a stage where creativity is at its most authentic," he says, "designing from a place of optimism, and bringing new energy and ideas.”
The Moto is available in black and red, blue and white, or futuristic matte black.
The Cosy
Sink your feet into the Cosy, which comes courtesy of Dingyun Zhang. For it, the student designer reworked the Arizona sandal with inspiration taken from the padded comfort of a puffer jacket. In this iteration, the familiar double strap of Birkenstock is plumped up in neoprene or leather, and fastened with Velcro across the top of the foot. Offered in dual tones of white on black or black on white, this looks as comfortable as the name implies.
The Terra
Saskia Lenaerts, meanwhile, has reimagined the Birkenstock Milano into a design called Terra, which has been given a backstrap. Lenaerts has also added a human element to the shoe by picking out the design with contrasting stitching, based on the shape of a footprint left in the sand.
Lenaerts says she is grateful for the chance to tie-up with Birkenstock. "For us, as young designers, it is an extremely rewarding experience to be valued and listen to by established brands. It offers us the opportunity to learn first-hand from industry connoisseurs.
"We were given a shot at following through with a product from start to end, a product that will physically be produced and sold. To experience the entire industrialisation and marketing process is something unique at this early stage in our careers. Being able to evidence that I collaborated with Birkenstock validates my talent and expertise for future career endeavours."
The Bukarest
The final design is by Alecsander Rothschild, and is called the Bukarest. Rendered in neoprene, the top of the foot is covered with a layer that joins to an ankle strap, so from the side, the whole thing starts to resemble a gladiator sandal. Soft and airy, fastened with pliable Velcro, and offered in white, black and silver and white, this is a design that's at once space age yet old school.
Explaining his creation, Rothschild reiterates his peer Wolfe's thoughts that being a student still at college lends freedom to the pieces. “Students are usually more focused on the design, rather than the sales side, which I think gives a more vibrant product at the end. I think the collaboration with Birkenstock really shows that.”
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
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1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
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5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
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6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
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7. Limited time periods for audits
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8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
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Company Profile
Company name: Yeepeey
Started: Soft launch in November, 2020
Founders: Sagar Chandiramani, Jatin Sharma and Monish Chandiramani
Based: Dubai
Industry: E-grocery
Initial investment: $150,000
Future plan: Raise $1.5m and enter Saudi Arabia next year
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