The Afghan-British designer Osman Yousefzada is no stranger to tackling difficult issues, as evidenced by the strong narratives that run through his collections.
For his latest autumn / winter 2021 offering, he touches on how some cultures are often passed by, forgotten or worse, still, not given authorship over their own traditions and practices.
Titled Here to Stay, the collection was delivered as a video that took viewers on a visual journey around the world. While the name could be taken as a reference to the changes brought about by the pandemic, it does, in fact, echo the racist turbulence his family faced in the UK.
“These words were a chant that my uncle and elder cousins used in the '80s to fight racism on the streets – against police brutality, against the pay gap and for equal access to education. The chant still feels relevant today," said Yousefzada.
Always eager to support those overlooked, Yousefzada draws in that sense of "other" to this collection. The first dazzling looks are cut from the intricate handmade velvet ikat of Uzbekistan that dance with light and gemstones of ruby, sapphire blue and gold. Cut into decadent coats, belted blazers or puff-sleeved tops held closed with satin ribbon, they beg to be shown off.
Next come pieces covered in the delicate mirror work of the Banjara people of India, now done black on black, as tops or peplum aprons worn over skirts. These are followed by satiny heavy jackets and dresses scattered with symbols of the evil eye, the Hand of Fatima and pomegranates.
Familiar in this region, the evil eye symbol is said to ward off ill intent, while the Hand of Fatima is a potent display of purity, offering protection, power and strength. Representing the Five Pillars of Islam of faith, prayer, pilgrimage, fasting and charity, it is also called Hamsa, meaning five.
The pomegranate, meanwhile, features across Ancient Greek, Persian, Jewish, Hindu and Buddhist cultures as a token of fertility, eternity and fruitfulness.
Now depicted in beautiful beaded handwork, the symbols speak of histories and stories that have existed for hundreds of years.
As with all of Yousefzada’s collections, the focus is on the artisanal quality, as well as telling a wider tale.
The specs
Engine: 1.4-litre 4-cylinder turbo
Power: 180hp at 5,500rpm
Torque: 250Nm at 3,00rpm
Transmission: 5-speed sequential auto
Price: From Dh139,995
On sale: now
The specs
Engine: 3.5-litre twin-turbo V6
Power: 380hp at 5,800rpm
Torque: 530Nm at 1,300-4,500rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Price: From Dh299,000 ($81,415)
On sale: Now
If you go
Flying
Despite the extreme distance, flying to Fairbanks is relatively simple, requiring just one transfer in Seattle, which can be reached directly from Dubai with Emirates for Dh6,800 return.
Touring
Gondwana Ecotours’ seven-day Polar Bear Adventure starts in Fairbanks in central Alaska before visiting Kaktovik and Utqiarvik on the North Slope. Polar bear viewing is highly likely in Kaktovik, with up to five two-hour boat tours included. Prices start from Dh11,500 per person, with all local flights, meals and accommodation included; gondwanaecotours.com
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Retirement funds heavily invested in equities at a risky time
Pension funds in growing economies in Asia, Latin America and the Middle East have a sharply higher percentage of assets parked in stocks, just at a time when trade tensions threaten to derail markets.
Retirement money managers in 14 geographies now allocate 40 per cent of their assets to equities, an 8 percentage-point climb over the past five years, according to a Mercer survey released last week that canvassed government, corporate and mandatory pension funds with almost $5 trillion in assets under management. That compares with about 25 per cent for pension funds in Europe.
The escalating trade spat between the US and China has heightened fears that stocks are ripe for a downturn. With tensions mounting and outcomes driven more by politics than economics, the S&P 500 Index will be on course for a “full-scale bear market” without Federal Reserve interest-rate cuts, Citigroup’s global macro strategy team said earlier this week.
The increased allocation to equities by growth-market pension funds has come at the expense of fixed-income investments, which declined 11 percentage points over the five years, according to the survey.
Hong Kong funds have the highest exposure to equities at 66 per cent, although that’s been relatively stable over the period. Japan’s equity allocation jumped 13 percentage points while South Korea’s increased 8 percentage points.
The money managers are also directing a higher portion of their funds to assets outside of their home countries. On average, foreign stocks now account for 49 per cent of respondents’ equity investments, 4 percentage points higher than five years ago, while foreign fixed-income exposure climbed 7 percentage points to 23 per cent. Funds in Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Taiwan are among those seeking greater diversification in stocks and fixed income.
• Bloomberg
Women’s World T20, Asia Qualifier
UAE results
Beat China by 16 runs
Lost to Thailand by 10 wickets
Beat Nepal by five runs
Beat Hong Kong by eight wickets
Beat Malaysia by 34 runs
Standings (P, W, l, NR, points)
1. Thailand 5 4 0 1 9
2. UAE 5 4 1 0 8
3. Nepal 5 2 1 2 6
4. Hong Kong 5 2 2 1 5
5. Malaysia 5 1 4 0 2
6. China 5 0 5 0 0
Final
Thailand v UAE, Monday, 7am
