If sprucing up your wardrobe is high on your 2021 agenda, there are some seriously talented up-and-coming regional designers that need to be on your radar.
Whether you look to fluid tailoring, joy-infused prints or sports chic, the Middle East's latest crop of design stars cover all bases.
Here, we list 10 of the most exciting fashion talents coming out of the GCC.
Darin Hachem
Lebanese-Mexican designer Darin Hachem's fascinating label excels at fluid, androgynous asymmetry. Always pushing the boundaries of womanhood, for its spring / summer 2020 collection, the label looked to Lebanese artist Saloua Raouda Choucair for inspiration, while for its autumn / winter 2020-21 drop, it draws on the work of British sculpture artist Barbara Hepworth.
Romani
Dubai label Romani is the brainchild of Jordanian Haya Jarrar. A long-standing fascination with the Romani culture and its borderless independence spurred Jarrar to adopt the name for her label, which she describes as "different and rebellious". The collection is filled with a true sense of joie de vivre – think sculpted bolero jackets, coats tipped with feathers and gowns with ruched, puffed sleeves. A regional favourite, Romani has been snapped up by the likes of Amina Muaddi, Dima Al Sheikhly and Karen Wazen.
Nol Collective
Named after the Arabic word for "loom", the nol Collective began life as a community initiative in Ramallah, Palestine, to help bring people together. Fast forward a few years, and it has expanded into a political, feminist fashion collective that champions Palestinian culture, ethical fashion and social justice. Most famous for its "Not Your Habibti" T-shirt, it carries a small but noteworthy collection of slogan tops and bags, written mostly in Arabic, but with a few English translations.
Reemami
Launched in 2009 by Palestinian designer Reem Al Banna, this UAE-founded label continues to be one of the most interesting in the region. At the heart of Reemami's designs are Al Banna's original illustrations, ranging from a night sky glimpsed through mountains to kaleidoscopic florals. The modern garments that follow – often made using reimagined deadstock – are so joyous and upbeat, it is little wonder that Queen Rania of Jordan is a regular customer.
Yousef Akbar
Founded in 2017 by Saudi Arabian designer Yousef Akbar, this young label is already fully committed to sustainability, through working with local companies, eschewing the use of leather and fur, and working towards bio-degradable materials and textiles. The label counterbalances gleaming sequins and feminine drapery – beautifully cut to skim the body – with unexpected details such as metal bolts, studs and wooded clasps.
Nafsika Skourti
This unapologetically sensual label is the brainchild of Jordanian sisters Nafsika and Stephanie Skourti. In contrast to the country's traditionally modest dress code, the label offers designs such as corset tops with mesh panels and slashed trousers. But this is not at the expense of its heritage, with Arab words inscribed across many of its designs, such as a pair of trousers emblazoned with the word "homeland". London's Victoria and Albert Museum has already snapped up the "Jerusalem" jacket from the label's autumn / winter 2018 collection, which is covered in images of Petra, Palestine's Dome of the Rock, and the Parthenon in Greece. The jacket is part of the museum's permanent collection.
Born in Exile
Founded in 2018, this label draws from founder Ibrahim Shebani's Libyan heritage, merging historical elements with modernwear. For autumn / winter 2020, it lifted the intricate embroidery of horse trappings, worn for traditional Libyan horse racing, and emblazoned them on the back of its leather jackets. This label is all about mixing the feminine with the tough, hand-painting flowers on to padded leather trousers and adding lace cuffs to heeled ankle boots.
Abadia
Abadia, founded by Saudi Arabian designer Shahd Al Shehail and her aunt, Naeema, takes its name from two Arabic words, "abadi" (timelessness) and "badiah" (desert), to outline its commitment to supporting culture, craftsmanship and ethically made products. Offering pared-back, well-cut tailoring that leans towards modestwear, this is a go-to for those craving simplicity in their wardrobe.
Mariam Al Sibai
While homed in New York, this label was founded by Syrian-British talent Mariam Al Sibai, to offer ethical outwear. In addition to fluid, comfortable coats and roomy cropped jackets, it also offers a line of bodies that, in response to Covid-19, have been reworked to feature a built-in mask, activated by rolling the polo neck over the face. With outerwear available in a wide array of colours, including blanket coats in primrose yellow, quilted coats in khaki green, and cropped jackets in hot pink and orange, it is easy to see why the likes of Gigi Hadid are drawn to the brand.
Boyfriend
Founded in 2017 by Lebanese stylist Amine Jreissati, Boyfriend the Brand was building a stellar reputation for its genderless collections when the blast tore through Beirut in August 2020, destroying, among many other things, Jreissati's home and new showroom.
Unfazed, he responded by setting up the label online, with the latest collection made using entirely Lebanese factories to support an industry left in disarray.
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