Zegna, the Italian master of quiet luxury, has just staged its first fashion show outside Italy.
On Wednesday, it transformed Dubai Opera into an oasis of fashion, with nods to both Italy and the UAE. Guests were greeted by birdsong recorded in Oasi Zegna, the land planted as a forest by the founder, as they took in the set of dunes, native ghaf and palm trees, and a sand-strewn floor.
Across 54 looks, the spring/summer 2026 show delivered a masterclass in the impeccable, laid-back dressing Zegna is known for, formed from elegant cuts and astonishing materials.
About 600 guests, many of whom were flown in for the event, witnessed the unfolding of a typically discreet palette that shifted from cream and bone, through olive and fern green to autumnal dark red and mulberry, played out across quietly remarkable pieces.
Art of understatement
As with everything Zegna does, this collection is about layered nuance. Unlined jackets were casually worn over collared shirts of perforated suede, laser-cut in dogtooth patterning. Tabard tops were spun from linen and paper, and cotton ticking became summery suit jackets and matching shorts. Crumpled linen was cut into boxy jackets, and woven into airy polo tops, while loose shirt jackets and even scarves arrived in Zegna's new “washable leather”. In a nod to the host city, 25 of these runway looks were made especially for the Dubai show.
The subtle brilliance of Zegna is best seen up close, when the true beauty of its pieces becomes apparent. Knitted suede tops, roomy crocheted tops that hang just-so, jacquard jackets that resemble tweed, and actual tweed spun into a light summer coat – this is a house that has mastered the art of understatement.
The show featured a diverse cast of models – from teenagers to septuagenarians – some barefoot, all restrained and elegant. Although predominantly featuring male models, there were a few women on the runway, clad in the same menswear as an illustration of its wearability. British musician James Blake also made an appearance, performing and taking the final bow with creative director Alessandro Sartori.
As owner of its own factories (to oversee a process it calls “sheep to shop”), Zegna can push boundaries of what is materially possible. Sartori explained before the show: “Through this experimentation, we are finding a lot of new ideas.”
In turn, these become new propositions for today's client. “There is a huge space between classic and avant-garde menswear that we can explore,” Sartori said.
The looks paraded in the opera house suggest this is not a middle ground, but instead a new frontier: making daily uniforms for the ultra-refined, using hyper-modern materials and devoid of logos, for an if-you-know-you-know cachet.
Stepping into Villa Zegna
Zegna's polished ethos extends well beyond the runway. Part of the opera house has been converted into Villa Zegna, a private invitation-only club open for five days.
Named after the original family house in Northern Italy, Villa Zegna allows clients to sample the new limited-edition Il Conte fragrance (created as a run of just 300 and housed in Murano glass bottles), and gain exclusive access to the Dubai capsule collection. Separate from the fashion show pieces, these additional 70 or so items cater to the lives of the ultra-rich – think croc skin jackets tumbled to the suppleness of suede, and hoodies in creamy cashmere. In a moment of Narnia-like charm, this arena can only be reached by passing through a rail of suits, which represents the wardrobe of founder Ermenegildo Zegna.
To ensure its guests glean the most from their visit, the fashion house has enlisted Dubai Tourism to guide them around the city Zegna describes as being a “celebration of vision”.
Such is the level of precision at Zegna that every detail – from triple-stitched moccasins to leather-covered buttons – is catered for. Accordingly, choosing Dubai for its first venture beyond its homeland does not feel coincidental. Carefully considered, the city has been selected for the values it shares with the storied Italian house. As one reaches for the sky, the other deals in the height of quality and sophistication. Both are fascinated by the intersection of the innovative and the remarkable. And if this evening was anything to go by, it is a quest without end.
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The National Archives, Abu Dhabi
Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.
Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en
Islamophobia definition
A widely accepted definition was made by the All Party Parliamentary Group on British Muslims in 2019: “Islamophobia is rooted in racism and is a type of racism that targets expressions of Muslimness or perceived Muslimness.” It further defines it as “inciting hatred or violence against Muslims”.
TEACHERS' PAY - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Pay varies significantly depending on the school, its rating and the curriculum. Here's a rough guide as of January 2021:
- top end schools tend to pay Dh16,000-17,000 a month - plus a monthly housing allowance of up to Dh6,000. These tend to be British curriculum schools rated 'outstanding' or 'very good', followed by American schools
- average salary across curriculums and skill levels is about Dh10,000, recruiters say
- it is becoming more common for schools to provide accommodation, sometimes in an apartment block with other teachers, rather than hand teachers a cash housing allowance
- some strong performing schools have cut back on salaries since the pandemic began, sometimes offering Dh16,000 including the housing allowance, which reflects the slump in rental costs, and sheer demand for jobs
- maths and science teachers are most in demand and some schools will pay up to Dh3,000 more than other teachers in recognition of their technical skills
- at the other end of the market, teachers in some Indian schools, where fees are lower and competition among applicants is intense, can be paid as low as Dh3,000 per month
- in Indian schools, it has also become common for teachers to share residential accommodation, living in a block with colleagues
The specs: 2019 Haval H6
Price, base: Dh69,900
Engine: 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder
Transmission: Seven-speed automatic
Power: 197hp @ 5,500rpm
Torque: 315Nm @ 2,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined: 7.0L / 100km
Living in...
This article is part of a guide on where to live in the UAE. Our reporters will profile some of the country’s most desirable districts, provide an estimate of rental prices and introduce you to some of the residents who call each area home.
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7.40pm: Maiden Dh165,000 (D) 1,600m. Winner: Mulfit, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson.
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What the law says
Micro-retirement is not a recognised concept or employment status under Federal Decree Law No. 33 of 2021 on the Regulation of Labour Relations (as amended) (UAE Labour Law). As such, it reflects a voluntary work-life balance practice, rather than a recognised legal employment category, according to Dilini Loku, senior associate for law firm Gateley Middle East.
“Some companies may offer formal sabbatical policies or career break programmes; however, beyond such arrangements, there is no automatic right or statutory entitlement to extended breaks,” she explains.
“Any leave taken beyond statutory entitlements, such as annual leave, is typically regarded as unpaid leave in accordance with Article 33 of the UAE Labour Law. While employees may legally take unpaid leave, such requests are subject to the employer’s discretion and require approval.”
If an employee resigns to pursue micro-retirement, the employment contract is terminated, and the employer is under no legal obligation to rehire the employee in the future unless specific contractual agreements are in place (such as return-to-work arrangements), which are generally uncommon, Ms Loku adds.
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
