How can burnt food be so good? And how can an onion be such a versatile and electrifying ingredient?
Head chef Timofey Sulima’s masterful overheating technique transforms basic ingredients into unique dishes at a stylish new Scandinavian-European restaurant in the heart of Dubai’s financial district.
Where to sit and what to expect
Flor Dubai – it is actually spelt with the Scandinavian letter ø – is an intimate 50-seat space on the ground floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, DIFC. White walls and flooring, soft lighting, candles and carefully curated artwork create an atmosphere of calm refinement and minimalist elegance.
There is a private dining area upstairs with capacity for six. But my dining partner and I opt for the leafy outdoor terrace, where dusk is giving way to the bright city lights at night.
Outside and in, Flor’s aesthetic mirrors its culinary philosophy of simplicity. There are no gimmicks here, just thoughtful design that lets the food – and chef – take centre stage.
Meet the chef
Growing up on a Ukrainian farm inspired Sulima's love of fresh, seasonal ingredients. At 27, he has already made waves in the culinary world. His Michelin Bib Gourmand award at Flor Moscow when he was 24 signalled a prodigious talent. He is now sharing his bold creations at Flor’s first branch outside Russia.
Owner Konstantin Borisov, whose catering career has taken him from dishwasher to restaurateur, saw Sulima flourish in the Russian capital and is confident he will continue this trajectory in the Emirates.
Controlled burning, we discover, is one of Sulima's signature techniques. Onions, butter, beetroot, even brownies: he chars deliberately but carefully, coaxing out flavours and textures that elevate each dish. What would be a kitchen mishap for most is, in his hands, sear genius.
The menu
Flor’s menu is a refreshing departure from overcomplicated fine dining. Sulima focuses on high-quality, everyday ingredients, transforming them with methods that include fearless overuse of the flame.
Our meal begins with Scandinavian-style black stout bread with honey butter (Dh25). The butter is split in two, one half burnt then whipped with the remaining half and a drop of honey. The result? An airy, creamy spread that is impossible to resist.
Starters should not be skipped. The Hokkaido scallop with green verbena sauce (Dh89), garnished with apple ribbon, is a delicate yet bold dish, the shellfish playing off the herby tang of the sensational sauce.
Roast beef with chef’s special sauce (Dh89) is another example of Sulima’s skill. The steak, which we ask for medium, is perfectly cooked and rests on a warm Russian sauna stone, its juices sizzling gently. The thinly sliced meat is paired with a creamy sauce infused with burnt onion ash, adding an umami depth that lingers on the palate.
For mains, the cabbage steak with pepe verde sauce (Dh75) demonstrates that even modest ingredients can shine. It is a crisp vegetarian showstopper.
The ravioli with duck confit (Dh80) is intended to be a refined twist on a classic, but falls a little short. While the pasta is tender and the Parmesan sauce rich, the dish lacks the depth of flavour required to make it really stand out on a busy table.
Dessert is a sweet and smoky surprise. Coffee cheesecake (Dh65) is a textural marvel, with a crisp base, airy topping and roasted brownie crumbs for a bittersweet finish.
Berry beetroot (Dh55) is also an unlikely star. Caramelised beetroot with raspberries and coconut yoghurt mousse, it is light with a balance of earthiness and sweetness
Save or splurge
Flor is mid-range, but the craftsmanship, service and ambience justify the cost.
The filet mignon (Dh230), a symphony of flavours and textures, is the dish to choose for indulgence. The tender steak combines perfectly with the onion sauce, and the celery puree, velvety and complex, elevates the dish from excellent to unforgettable.
For a taste of Sulima’s magic without breaking the bank, the impeccable stout bread and honey butter (Dh25) paired with cabbage steak (Dh75) and berry beetroot (Dh55) is a dependable combination.
Verdict
Flor Dubai is a statement addition to the city’s culinary scene. Sulima’s fearless use of heat – not something anyone should try at home – transforms familiar ingredients into something special, while the serene setting ensures a refined dining experience.
There is something here for everyone. And Flor suggests that, perhaps, the best dishes come from fearlessly playing with fire.
Contact information
Flor Dubai, at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, DIFC, is open daily from noon to 1am. Brunch is offered every Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4pm. Reservations can be made by calling 97158 617 8801.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
