• A boarded-up Oxford Street branch of the department store Debenhams in April 2020. Getty Images
    A boarded-up Oxford Street branch of the department store Debenhams in April 2020. Getty Images
  • Customers rush into Debenhams department store as the doors open for its sale in 1978. Getty Images
    Customers rush into Debenhams department store as the doors open for its sale in 1978. Getty Images
  • Crowds on the pavement outside Debenhams department store wait for the sale to begin in 1978. Getty Images
    Crowds on the pavement outside Debenhams department store wait for the sale to begin in 1978. Getty Images
  • Santa Claus in his grotto at Debenhams department store with children gathered around in 1978. Getty Images
    Santa Claus in his grotto at Debenhams department store with children gathered around in 1978. Getty Images
  • Shoppers running through the door of a Debenhams department store at the beginning of the sales season in 1980. Getty Images
    Shoppers running through the door of a Debenhams department store at the beginning of the sales season in 1980. Getty Images
  • Brazilian footballer Pele greeting fans in the Oxford Street Debenhams store in 1981. Getty Images
    Brazilian footballer Pele greeting fans in the Oxford Street Debenhams store in 1981. Getty Images
  • Bucks Fizz singers Cheryl Baker and Shelley Preston, posing in the mouth of a Lego dinosaur, in Debenhams department store in Croydon in 1985. Getty Images
    Bucks Fizz singers Cheryl Baker and Shelley Preston, posing in the mouth of a Lego dinosaur, in Debenhams department store in Croydon in 1985. Getty Images
  • Pop group Westlife flick the switch at the annual ceremony turning on the Oxford Street Christmas Lights, at Debenhams Oxford Street in 2005. Getty Images
    Pop group Westlife flick the switch at the annual ceremony turning on the Oxford Street Christmas Lights, at Debenhams Oxford Street in 2005. Getty Images
  • Debenhams on London's Oxford Street in the run-up to Christmas 2007. Getty Images
    Debenhams on London's Oxford Street in the run-up to Christmas 2007. Getty Images
  • Bear Grylls poses in a Debenhams shop window to launch an initiative in 2009. Getty Images
    Bear Grylls poses in a Debenhams shop window to launch an initiative in 2009. Getty Images
  • A Pippa Middleton look-a-like launches a dress at Debenhams inspired by Pippa Middleton's Royal Wedding Bridesmaid dress in 2011. Getty Images
    A Pippa Middleton look-a-like launches a dress at Debenhams inspired by Pippa Middleton's Royal Wedding Bridesmaid dress in 2011. Getty Images

UK retailer Debenhams to close, putting 12,000 jobs at risk


Alice Haine
  • English
  • Arabic

British retailer Debenhams is set to close after failing to find a buyer in last-ditch efforts to rescue the brand, administrators FRP Advisory said on Tuesday.

The department store, which has been a feature of the UK high Street for more than 200 years, said it would start a wind-down of the brand while continuing to seek offers for all or parts of the business.

It means 12,000 British employees at 124 UK stores face losing their jobs, just a day after Philip Green's Arcadia fashion group entered administration, threatening about 13,000 jobs.

Alshaya Group, the Middle East franchise owner of Debenhams, which has 26 Debenhams stores across the Middle East, including nine in Saudi Arabia and six in the UAE, said its operations would continue.

"Whilst the UK high street faces ongoing challenges, Alshaya Group confirms that today's UK news announcements about Arcadia Group and Debenhams do not affect its Middle East business operations and our stores will continue to welcome customers as normal," Alshaya told The National on Tuesday.

Debenhams Group said its sale process did not result "in a deliverable proposal".

"Given the current trading environment and the likely prolonged effects of the Covid-19 pandemic, the outlook for a restructured operation is highly uncertain,” the company said in a statement.

“The administrators have therefore regretfully concluded that they should commence a wind-down of Debenhams UK, whilst continuing to seek offers for all or parts of the business.”

British retailers have been hammered this year with physical stores forced to shut during two lockdowns and consumers switching to online. The industry is set to lose 235,000 retail jobs, according to the Centre for Retail Research, with the collapse of two of the country's best-known retailers, putting 25,000 jobs at risk in less than 24 hours, one of the harshest blows this year.

Debenhams fell into administration for the second time in April with hopes of a rescue resting on the sportswear brand JD Sports. Reuters
Debenhams fell into administration for the second time in April with hopes of a rescue resting on the sportswear brand JD Sports. Reuters

Arcadia, the owner of leading fashion brands Topshop, Burton, Dororthy Perkins and Miss Selfridge, is headed by the colourful retail tycoon Sir Philip Green, 68, who is famed for lounging on his luxury yacht during the collapse of the department store BHS in 2016, which he had managed to offload the year before.

Arcadia has now hired administrators from Deloitte to evaluate all options for the group while it continues to trade.

Meanwhile, Debenhams fell into administration for the second time in April, with hopes of a rescue resting on the sportswear brand JD Sports.

During the administration process, options for the business included a sale of all or part of the UK business, a further restructure of the brand’s operations or “the orderly wind-down” of the business.

The Debenhams flagship department store on Oxford Street in central London. The retailer has been a feature of the UK high Street for more than 200 years. Bloomberg
The Debenhams flagship department store on Oxford Street in central London. The retailer has been a feature of the UK high Street for more than 200 years. Bloomberg

After the sports chain pulled out of the deal, any hopes the 242-year-old department store could be saved were dashed, with the decision instead to close the business. The company had already cut about 6,500 jobs since May as it struggled to stay afloat.

Staff were told the news on Tuesday morning, with the brand continuing to trade across the UK and online to clear stock.

Geoff Rowley of FRP Advisory, joint administrator to Debenhams and partner at FRP, said all reasonable steps were taken to complete a transaction that would secure the future of Debenhams.

“However, the economic landscape is extremely challenging and, coupled with the uncertainty facing the UK retail industry, a viable deal could not be reached,” he said.

“The decision to move forward with a closure programme has been carefully assessed and, while we remain hopeful that alternative proposals for the business may yet be received, we deeply regret that circumstances force us to commence this course of action.”

In the UAE, however, both Debenhams and any stores linked to Arcadia will remain unaffected by the crisis in the UK, as they are all operated by the Kuwaiti, family-owned retail company Alshaya Group.

This means there will not be any store closures in UAE malls, says David Macadam, chief executive of the Middle East Council of Shopping Centre.

"The impact to the franchise holders for these brands occurs much later and to a far less extent in the Mena region," said Mr Macadam.

"It takes time to filter through the system to reach this end of the world and in the meantime, it's pretty much business as usual, as long as the inventory is there."

A Debenhams store in Dubai Mall, one of six in the UAE. Paulo Vecina/The National
A Debenhams store in Dubai Mall, one of six in the UAE. Paulo Vecina/The National

Sandeep Ganediwalla, partner at the Middle East practice of India's Redseer Consulting, said this is not the first time a UK chain has gone through administration without affecting its UAE operations. He points to the collapse of Jamie Oliver's restaurant group last year, which did not affect Jamie's Pizzeria in Jumeirah Lakes Towers.

"There are a lot of brands in the UK or other parts of the world that have gone into administration but because this is a franchise operation, the franchise operators have decided to continue with the brand," said Mr Ganediwalla.

"It depends on whether customers think the brand is tarnished and whether sourcing continues. If the underlying designers go out of business and there is no stock for Debenhams to stock here, then that is a challenge. If that is not the case, I would not be surprised if Debenhams continues to operate in some form. Having said that they have been struggling here and closing locations here as well."

He noted the US brand Borders, which went into administration in 2011, yet its UAE franchise owner Al Maya Group continues to operate 17 stores across the Emirates, with other outlets in Oman and Qatar.

Meanwhile, former Debenhams chairman Sir Ian Cheshire told the BBC he felt desperately sorry for the company’s employees.

Richard Lim, chief executive of the consultancy Retail Economics, a consultancy, said the failure of two brands is “truly devastating” in a country where main streets are being increasingly hollowed out, said Richard Lim, chief executive of the consultancy Retail Economics, a consultancy.

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”