The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government imposed a virtual lockdown on the north of Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy, March 9, 2020. REUTERS
The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government imposed a virtual lockdown on the north of Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy, March 9, 2020. REUTERS
The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government imposed a virtual lockdown on the north of Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy, March 9, 2020. REUTERS
The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government imposed a virtual lockdown on the north of Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy, Ma

Coronavirus: Venice becomes a ghost town as Italian city reels from virus


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At 79 years of age, Elsa Doria has seen floods and other natural disasters hit her native Venice but through it all the city of canals has remained a global magnet for tourism.

But as the panic over the coronavirus empties its gondolas and restaurants, Ms Doria fears that bad management of the crisis by Italian politicians has finally managed what the weather could not.

“They made it seem as if we were the infectors of Europe," she said.

"The difference is that we Italians are doing a lot of screenings while Germans and French aren’t."

The Rialto Bridge, one of Venice’s landmarks, is usually as congested as the train station but both are deserted.

In the few open shops, clerks are tidying up or chatting on their mobile phones. St Mark’s Square is almost empty, too.

“What will kill Venice is not the coronavirus, it’s the economic crisis," a souvenir seller said. "It’s a psychosis fuelled by the media.”

The man does not yet know that in a few hours the government will block the entire Lombardy region and 14 other provinces, including Venice.

Venice hotel manager Luca, who spoke to The National by phone, is glum.

“Even before the government’s decision I was receiving a wave of cancellations," he said. "Now my hotel is almost empty. I really don’t know how we will get out of this crisis."

In Piazza San Marco, Mattia Pivetta, a computer consultant from nearby Treviso, backs the quarantine measures.

“It’s crucial to stop the virus from spreading further,” Mr Pivetta said.

His fiancee, Camille Depassio, is a French teacher from Lyon, who is getting used to the disruption.

“Since the end of February I’ve been teaching long-distance classes," Ms Depassio said.

Like the few other tourists, they seem to enjoy the peace of the square in all its splendour.

But Cristian Boscolo, a gondolier dressed in the typical black and white hooped T-shirt, is worried.

“We’ve never had so few tourists," Mr Boscolo said. "This is worse than after 9-11 or the Gulf War. I lost practically 90 per cent of the clients.”

He shrugs his shoulders. Like thousands of other fellow citizens, he works in tourism, an industry that is crucial for the prosperity of the historic city of Venice.

The city on the water, with its Lido, is one of the most popular destinations in the world but on this sunny Saturday morning, you hardly see anyone around.

  • A paramedic walks out of a tent that was set up in front of the emergency ward of the Cremona hospital, northern Italy. AP
    A paramedic walks out of a tent that was set up in front of the emergency ward of the Cremona hospital, northern Italy. AP
  • Police officers and soldiers check passengers leaving from Milan main train station, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP Photo
    Police officers and soldiers check passengers leaving from Milan main train station, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP Photo
  • A soldier checks passengers leaving from Milan main train station, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP Photo
    A soldier checks passengers leaving from Milan main train station, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP Photo
  • Roman citizens queue outside a supermarket as they wait to buy basic necessities, in Rome, Italy. EPA
    Roman citizens queue outside a supermarket as they wait to buy basic necessities, in Rome, Italy. EPA
  • Roman citizens go to buy groceries at a supermarket in Rome, Italy. EPA
    Roman citizens go to buy groceries at a supermarket in Rome, Italy. EPA
  • Roman citizens go to buy groceries at a supermarket in Rome, Italy. EPA
    Roman citizens go to buy groceries at a supermarket in Rome, Italy. EPA
  • People wait at a bus stop, in Rome, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP
    People wait at a bus stop, in Rome, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP
  • Paramedics work in a tent that was set up outside the hospital of Cremona, northern Italy. AP
    Paramedics work in a tent that was set up outside the hospital of Cremona, northern Italy. AP
  • The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government an extension of the shutdown in Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy. Reuters
    The almost empty St. Mark's Square is seen after the Italian government an extension of the shutdown in Italy including Venice to try to contain a coronavirus outbreak, in Venice, Italy. Reuters
  • A completely empty fondamenta della Misericordia is seen in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
    A completely empty fondamenta della Misericordia is seen in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
  • People walk in an almost empty St. Mark's Square in Venice, Italy. AP
    People walk in an almost empty St. Mark's Square in Venice, Italy. AP
  • A Venetian wearing a protective mask walks by children playing in a square on in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
    A Venetian wearing a protective mask walks by children playing in a square on in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
  • Coronavirus health checks take place before the Serie A match between US Sassuolo and Brescia Calcio at Mapei Stadium - Citta del Tricolore in Reggio nell'Emilia, Italy. Getty Images
    Coronavirus health checks take place before the Serie A match between US Sassuolo and Brescia Calcio at Mapei Stadium - Citta del Tricolore in Reggio nell'Emilia, Italy. Getty Images
  • A view of the empty Mapei stadium as the Serie A soccer match between Sassuolo and Brescia is being played behind closed doors, in Reggio Emilia. AP
    A view of the empty Mapei stadium as the Serie A soccer match between Sassuolo and Brescia is being played behind closed doors, in Reggio Emilia. AP
  • A completely empty Rialto bridge is seen in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
    A completely empty Rialto bridge is seen in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
  • A seagull is seen at an empty fondamenta della Misericordia in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
    A seagull is seen at an empty fondamenta della Misericordia in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
  • A Venetian sits outside the historical cafe called 'The lost Paradise' at the fondamenta della Misericordia in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
    A Venetian sits outside the historical cafe called 'The lost Paradise' at the fondamenta della Misericordia in Venice, Italy. Getty Images
  • Inmates stand behind bars at the San Vittore prison as protests broke out following restrictions that were imposed on family visits to prevent coronavirus transmissions, in Milan, Italy. AP Photo
    Inmates stand behind bars at the San Vittore prison as protests broke out following restrictions that were imposed on family visits to prevent coronavirus transmissions, in Milan, Italy. AP Photo
  • The relatives of inmates clashe with police outside of Rebibbia Prison during a prisoners' revolt, after family visits were suspended due to fears over coronavirus contagion, in Rome, Italy. Reuters
    The relatives of inmates clashe with police outside of Rebibbia Prison during a prisoners' revolt, after family visits were suspended due to fears over coronavirus contagion, in Rome, Italy. Reuters
  • The Ticino cantonal police checks cars along the Italian-Swiss border after the Lombardy region was declared a red zone in Stabio, Switzerland. EPA
    The Ticino cantonal police checks cars along the Italian-Swiss border after the Lombardy region was declared a red zone in Stabio, Switzerland. EPA
  • A police officer wearing a protective face mask speaks with a traveler at Centrale railway station in Milan, Italy. Bloomberg
    A police officer wearing a protective face mask speaks with a traveler at Centrale railway station in Milan, Italy. Bloomberg
  • People protest against war in Syria, keeping one metre distance at the St. Peter's Square where Pope Francis will deliver the weekly Angelus prayer via video. Reuters
    People protest against war in Syria, keeping one metre distance at the St. Peter's Square where Pope Francis will deliver the weekly Angelus prayer via video. Reuters
  • A person holds a measuring tape during the protest against war in Syria, keeping one metre distance at St. Peter's Square. Reuters
    A person holds a measuring tape during the protest against war in Syria, keeping one metre distance at St. Peter's Square. Reuters

Northern Italy’s coronavirus crisis has hit the province of Venice hard.

There are few tourists anywhere, just some Italians from nearby areas and a few young European and Asian couples who did not feel like cancelling holidays that had already been paid for and might not be refunded.

Laura Sanchez comes from the north of Peru and is a clerk in a kiosk near the train station. She says no one is buying her souvenirs.

“Plus, you know, the locals are few and mostly old and they hardly leave their home these days," Ms Sanchez said.

"There were four of us working in this kiosk, now I’m the only one left."

A completely empty Riva degli Schiavoni next to San Marco Square is seen on March 9, 2020 in Venice, Italy. Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte announced a "national emergency" due to the coronavirus outbreak and imposed quarantines on the Lombardy and Veneto regions, which contain roughly a quarter of the country's population. Getty Images
A completely empty Riva degli Schiavoni next to San Marco Square is seen on March 9, 2020 in Venice, Italy. Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte announced a "national emergency" due to the coronavirus outbreak and imposed quarantines on the Lombardy and Veneto regions, which contain roughly a quarter of the country's population. Getty Images

The foreign newspapers – British, German and American – remain unsold on the counter.

In 2017, there were 512 tourists a day for each square kilometre in Venice. Now the streets are half empty.

Almost all Asians wear a mask and walk quickly, while the Germans and the Britons stop to take pictures with no hurry. It is a real luxury for a hectic city such as Venice.

Not far from the station, there is Sohag Islam’s bar. He is 25 years old and comes from Bangladesh.

His bar is nice and cosy. Customers can enjoy espresso, cappuccino, spritz or Venice-typical potato croquettes.

“On a Saturday it should be crowded," Mr Islam said. "I've borrowed money to start my own business but now it’s at zero.

“Last November we were hit by floods, now this. The Carnival was a chance to recover from the losses but they stopped it because of the coronavirus.

"The bills come even though you’re not making any money. And now I’m having trouble paying rent on my house.”

The severe floods in winter caused billions of dollars in damage to its cultural heritage and businesses.

The coronavirus risks being the coup de grace to an increasingly old city, from which more and more Venetians have been moving to nearby Mestre, Milan or the rest of Italy.

Empty chairs and tables are lined up outside a restaurant in St. Mark's Square in Venice, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP
Empty chairs and tables are lined up outside a restaurant in St. Mark's Square in Venice, Italy, Monday, March 9, 2020. AP

Yet some Venetians remain positive and hopeful. Margherita Rossetto, a ceramic decorator, says she has been working in Venice since the fall of Berlin Wall.

“It’s true, these days there are fewer tourists, but they'll be back," Ms Rossetto said. "I’ve overcome all of the crises in this city. This one will pass, too.”

But Ms Doria regards it as another downward step in the decline of Venice as a living city. She also worries about the long-term departure of Venetians.

“It is difficult remaining in Venice," she said. "It takes incentives to help young couples to stay here but no administration has solved the problem of house costs.

“Everywhere is full of closed apartments. I live in an 18th century building with eight apartments and only now, after years, we have a baby in the building.”