NEW DELHI // In the narrow alleyways of the Walled City of Old Delhi, Ramadan's daily fast ends with a bang.
Two fireworks explosions suddenly rock through the evening chaos of the ancient city. The crowd makes its way up the steep stairs of a mosque that can hold 25,000 people, while the muezzin sings out the call to prayer. Families come carrying tiffins, or lunch boxes, so that they can break their fast immediately after prayers.
Others, such as Mohsin Khan, 24, do it the traditional way, by offering strangers a date or two.
"This is the best way to break a fast," said Mr Khan, a volunteer with Walk Delhi, an organisation that holds walking tours through historic parts of the city. "It is always interesting to come here to see how everyone gets ready to celebrate the most awaited festival in the Walled City."
Legends say, and historians agree, that Delhi was built and rebuilt seven times by successive conquerors - from the Tomaras-Chauhan dynasty in 736BC to the British in 1857. It was during the reign of one of the most successful rulers of northern India, the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, that the Walled City was constructed.
The Walled City is named for the remaining parts of a six-kilometre-long, 13-metre high rampart. Post-independence, the Indian government tore down most of the wall to alleviate the over-crowding in what came to be known as Old Delhi.
Inside, there are more than 90 mosques although only 11 remain from the city's founding. Jama Masjid is the largest and most well known but there are many smaller mosques that provide tranquil spaces in the congested lanes. The Kalan mosque, with its aquamarine walls, reflection pool and a fortress-like front facade was built in the 12th century.
"This mosque was built on a mound because back then it was in the middle of the forest," said Smita Vats, the founder of Walk Delhi. "It was built for travellers on their way out of the city, for people to rest, before they began their journey."
Surrounding the mosque now are low-rise concrete houses. On the rooftops, women cook on open wood fires late into the evening, preparing for Sehri or Suhoor, the meal before dawn.
"The only difference during Ramadan is that all the shops are open throughout the night," said Pamela Timms, who writes a popular blog called Eat and Dust, on the street food of Old Delhi. "During Ramadan they are on fire. They do a roaring trade."
After the sun has set, the Jama Masjid, along with all the shops, light up. Restaurants take up whatever space they can on the narrow alleyways, displaying mounds of nuts, deep fried snacks, or grilled meats. Some of the specialities during Ramadan including Seviyan, or noodles made from vermicelli, that will be turned into a sheer korma, or a milk pudding.
"It is the first thing to eat during Eid, with various nuts and milk," said Ms Timms. "All of this food is there all the time but there are more people on the streets, a bigger atmosphere and certain dishes, like Seviyan, that are on sale only now."
In the heart of the Walled City is Bawarchi Khana, or the area historically dedicated to cooks. During Ramadan, they do roaring trade mass producing Iftar staples for restaurants and families, struggling to keep up with the demand from hungry fasters. Large wooden fires burn and each shop prepares only one dish - either biryani or a thick spicy mutton curry, called a korma. Some of the cooks make mounds of fresh bread that are carted off to homes and restaurants across Delhi.
"This is how it has been done for hundreds of years," said Salim Khan, a delivery man, carting off 15 kilos of biryani in an iron pot, covered with a newspaper, on a push trolley. "I don't know any other way."
Meanwhile, Abdul Ghani Qureshi, 66, a cook who comes from "at least six generations of cooks" made a feast for a private party. His grandson, Mohammed Ansar Qureshi, 16, helped fan the charcoal grills on which slices of chicken and goat kebabs were cooking.
"I like to feed people from the heart," said Mr Qureshi. "Here in the Walled City, people come from everywhere to celebrate because, for a whole month, the exuberance we give off is different from anywhere else in the world."
sbhattacharya@thenational.ae
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