LONDON.5/4/2011. David Warren, Head of Jewellery Middle East at Christie's in London. Stephen Lock  for  The  National. FOR REVIEW.
David Warren, Christie's head of Middle East jewellery, in London. Stephen Lock for The National

'Mr Pearl's elusive quarry finally goes under the gavel



David Warren has travelled hundreds of thousands of miles hunting down the objects of his desire. Over the past three decades he has descended into emerald mines in Colombia. He has brokered multi-million dollar deals with some of the most elusive, and wealthiest, people in the world. He has uncovered the true value of treasures of antiquity long dismissed as junk.

Oh, and he has found a really handy use for Microsoft Excel. He has employed the spreadsheet application to create his personal "Pearl Index", a meticulous log of every last detail of every pearl he has seen, bought, sold or longed for. To date, this list runs to 200 items.

Warren is the international director of Christie's Jewellery and head of jewellery, Middle East. But to colleagues in the auction house's Dubai and London offices, between which he splits his time when not roaming the world in search of acquisitions, he is Mr Pearl: part dusty academic, part big-game hunter, steadily tracking his prey. "Pearls," he says, "are my passion."

Next Wednesday evening, Warren will be in Dubai presiding over Christie's auction of "Important Jewels". Its 98 lots have an estimated worth of $13.5 million. Each one has been selected by Warren over the past six months, during which time, he says, he must have seen 10,000 items that were either the wrong piece, the wrong price, or both.

Those that made the final cut include an exquisite aquamarine and ruby ring, strings of diamonds and an array of pendants, rings and bracelets, each bespoke and arrestingly beautiful. For Warren, none hold the appeal of Lot 79, listed in the catalogue as "An Important Natural Pearl".

It is important for its provenance: it was once part of the collection of Valda Virginia Vaughan Scott, daughter of an English diplomat and member of the prestigious Alessi family. It is important for its cultural resonance in this region proudly bound to its pearl-diving past. It is important for its quality. And, at 239.7 grains (a whisper away from 60 carats), it is important for its sheer size.

Warren says: "It's a fabulous piece. I've known about this pearl and had it on my list for some time. I follow who owns what, what pearls are where, what's possibly up for sale, what's in museums and what's in private collections out of sight.

"Last year this particular pearl was exhibited in Qatar's Islamic museum. So it was back at the forefront of people's minds."

That, along with the fact that the pearl market has risen rapidly in the past five years, helped Warren convince the owner that now would be a good time to sell.

According to Warren a key factor in the success of any item up for auction in Dubai is that it is unique. With its baroque drop-shape, rainbow sheen, circular-cut diamond mount and diamond chain, Lot 79 is certainly that. But then, as Warren points out, "every natural pearl is a freak of nature."

It is part of the apparently unending appeal that pearls hold for this 53-year-old Glaswegian, who discovered a love of auctions as a teenager accompanying his antique dealer mother to sale rooms.

He decided to try his hand at trading and what began as a hobby - buying goods with his pocket money and selling them on for an increasingly tidy profit - morphed into a job on leaving school. Warren dropped out of college after a year as his antique and collectable trading was earning him enough to pay his rent as well as buy a car and a motorbike. His success caught the eye of a local auction house in Glasgow where he was offered a job. When the firm was taken over by Christie's they kept him on and within two years he was posted to London, where his love affair with jewellery began in earnest: first with emeralds, then Indian Mogul pieces and, ultimately, pearls.

Christie's doesn't deal in cultured pearls. They have a resale value, Warren explains, but not substantial enough to be of real interest to the auction house.

His passion is natural saltwater pearls whose lustre tends to exceed that of their freshwater cousins.

Warren says: "A lot of the best pearls in the world were fished from the Arabian Gulf, though sadly the pearl beds were all but destroyed when industrial scale fishing meant they could be trawled."

There are several major collectors in the area for whom a guaranteed Arabian provenance would prove appealing, but there is no way of scientifically proving which pearl bed any individual pearl comes from.

Natural pearls come in two categories: blister pearls, which grow attached to the mollusc and must be cut loose, leaving one side flat and lacking in shine, and precious pearls, which float freely in their shell home and have a more even shape as a result.

As Warren points out, "Pearls have been around forever. They were the first gemstones man knew of and understood because they were just there, found when fishing for food, unlike diamonds or rubies or whatever that have to be dug out of rocks, cut and polished."

Greeks believed that pearls were the result of lightning hitting the ocean. The Romans thought them the tears of the gods. The truth is more prosaic. They form when a foreign body - a grain of sand, a tiny sea creature - gets into a live mollusc and the animal coats the irritant with nacre, the substance which it uses to build its shell. It's the layers of nacre which form the pearl's "skin." That skin should be even and smooth, without blemish or blister and, ideally, white with a faint blush of pink.

Sadly, a pearl's skin is no more impervious to the ageing process than that of the beauties who wear it. It may take a tad longer - three, maybe four hundred years - but ultimately the pearl's porous skin will dry out, crack and discolour.

Warren says, "The oldest pearl necklace in the world is the Susa Necklace. It was actually found in the Middle East and dates back to antiquity. It's in the Louvre and I made a pilgrimage there to see it.

"I'm afraid to say it was a bit of an anticlimax. It's three rows of pearls interspersed with gold beads, but some of the pearls just looked like black lumps of charcoal. Pearls, unlike diamonds, aren't forever."

As for the size, providing the shape and skin are of quality, then the bigger the better. The pearl up for auction next week is among the largest in the world.

But Warren admits: "Because the nature of a pearl is so individual the same is true of valuation. It's not like diamonds where you can check up the Rapaport [Diamond Price List] and anyone, anywhere in the world can say, 'that's the price.'

"Every single pearl is different. Every single valuation comes down to a bit of educated guesswork. The only thing you can do is use your best judgement and your own reference library that you've built up in your mind ... or, in my case, the list. Sometimes when it comes to the day itself the key factor is emotion."

Two years ago a natural pearl necklace given to Umm Kulthum, the Arab singer, by Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed, President of the UAE, sold for $1,385,000 (Dh 5,082,950), more than 10 times its pre-sale estimate. The exquisite quality of the piece and its provenance contrived to create a bidding frenzy that no one could have predicted.

Whatever price Lot 79 fetches on Wednesday, Warren will update the relevant line on his "Pearl Index". And when he does he will scroll over his spreadsheet and settle wishfully on the pearls that continue to elude him: The Dudley Pearl, 209 grains, a perfect drop, perfect white with a hint of blush, the Peregrina Pearl, owned by Elizabeth Taylor and three significant pearls owned by Princess Michael of Kent.

For Mr Pearl, the business of "Important Jewels" won't end when the final lot is sold on Wednesday evening. Far from it. There will always be more quarry to be tracked, hunted, bagged and, indeed, indexed.

Company Profile

Company name: Cargoz
Date started: January 2022
Founders: Premlal Pullisserry and Lijo Antony
Based: Dubai
Number of staff: 30
Investment stage: Seed

Need to know

Unlike other mobile wallets and payment apps, a unique feature of eWallet is that there is no need to have a bank account, credit or debit card to do digital payments.

Customers only need a valid Emirates ID and a working UAE mobile number to register for eWallet account.

COMPANY PROFILE

Name: SmartCrowd
Started: 2018
Founder: Siddiq Farid and Musfique Ahmed
Based: Dubai
Sector: FinTech / PropTech
Initial investment: $650,000
Current number of staff: 35
Investment stage: Series A
Investors: Various institutional investors and notable angel investors (500 MENA, Shurooq, Mada, Seedstar, Tricap)

The past winners

2009 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull)

2010 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull)

2011 - Lewis Hamilton (McLaren)

2012 - Kimi Raikkonen (Lotus)

2013 - Sebastian Vettel (Red Bull)

2014 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)

2015 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes)

2016 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)

2017 - Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes)

Result

2.15pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,950m; Winner: Majestic Thunder, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Satish Seemar (trainer).

2.45pm: Handicap Dh80,000 1,800m; Winner: Tailor’s Row, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer.

3.15pm: Handicap Dh85,000 1,600m; Winner: Native Appeal, Adam McLean, Doug Watson.

3.45pm: Handicap Dh115,000 1,950m; Winner: Conclusion, Antonio Fresu, Musabah Al Muhairi.

4.15pm: Handicap Dh100,000 1,400m; Winner: Pilgrim’s Treasure, Tadhg O’Shea, Satish Seemar.

4.45pm: Maiden Dh75,000 1,400m; Winner: Sanad Libya, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

5.15pm: Handicap Dh90,000 1,000m; Winner: Midlander, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar

If you go

The flights 

Emirates flies from Dubai to Funchal via Lisbon, with a connecting flight with Air Portugal. Economy class returns cost from Dh3,845 return including taxes.

The trip

The WalkMe app can be downloaded from the usual sources. If you don’t fancy doing the trip yourself, then Explore  offers an eight-day levada trails tour from Dh3,050, not including flights.

The hotel

There isn’t another hotel anywhere in Madeira that matches the history and luxury of the Belmond Reid's Palace in Funchal. Doubles from Dh1,400 per night including taxes.

 

 

Manchester United's summer dealings

In

Victor Lindelof (Benfica) £30.7 million

Romelu Lukaku (Everton) £75 million

Nemanja Matic (Chelsea) £40 million

Out

Zlatan Ibrahimovic Released

Wayne Rooney (Everton) Free transfer

Adnan Januzaj (Real Sociedad) £9.8 million

COMPANY PROFILE

Company: Eco Way
Started: December 2023
Founder: Ivan Kroshnyi
Based: Dubai, UAE
Industry: Electric vehicles
Investors: Bootstrapped with undisclosed funding. Looking to raise funds from outside

Ramez Gab Min El Akher

Creator: Ramez Galal

Starring: Ramez Galal

Streaming on: MBC Shahid

Rating: 2.5/5

JAPAN SQUAD

Goalkeepers: Masaaki Higashiguchi, Shuichi Gonda, Daniel Schmidt
Defenders: Yuto Nagatomo, Tomoaki Makino, Maya Yoshida, Sho Sasaki, Hiroki Sakai, Sei Muroya, Genta Miura, Takehiro Tomiyasu
Midfielders: Toshihiro Aoyama, Genki Haraguchi, Gaku Shibasaki, Wataru Endo, Junya Ito, Shoya Nakajima, Takumi Minamino, Hidemasa Morita, Ritsu Doan
Forwards: Yuya Osako, Takuma Asano, Koya Kitagawa

Remaining fixtures
  • August 29 – UAE v Saudi Arabia, Hazza bin Zayed Stadium, Al Ain
  • September 5 – Iraq v UAE, Amman, Jordan (venue TBC)
Marathon results

Men:

1. Titus Ekiru(KEN) 2:06:13 

2. Alphonce Simbu(TAN) 2:07:50 

3. Reuben Kipyego(KEN) 2:08:25 

4. Abel Kirui(KEN) 2:08:46 

5. Felix Kemutai(KEN) 2:10:48  

Women:

1. Judith Korir(KEN) 2:22:30 

2. Eunice Chumba(BHR) 2:26:01 

3. Immaculate Chemutai(UGA) 2:28:30 

4. Abebech Bekele(ETH) 2:29:43 

5. Aleksandra Morozova(RUS) 2:33:01  

SPECS

Engine: 2-litre direct injection turbo
Transmission: 7-speed automatic
Power: 261hp
Torque: 400Nm
Price: From Dh134,999

SPECS

Engine: 1.5-litre turbo

Power: 181hp

Torque: 230Nm

Transmission: 6-speed automatic

Starting price: Dh79,000

On sale: Now

FROM THE ASHES

Director: Khalid Fahad

Starring: Shaima Al Tayeb, Wafa Muhamad, Hamss Bandar

Rating: 3/5

WHY AAYAN IS 'PERFECT EXAMPLE'

David White might be new to the country, but he has clearly already built up an affinity with the place.

After the UAE shocked Pakistan in the semi-final of the Under 19 Asia Cup last month, White was hugged on the field by Aayan Khan, the team’s captain.

White suggests that was more a sign of Aayan’s amiability than anything else. But he believes the young all-rounder, who was part of the winning Gulf Giants team last year, is just the sort of player the country should be seeking to produce via the ILT20.

“He is a delightful young man,” White said. “He played in the competition last year at 17, and look at his development from there till now, and where he is representing the UAE.

“He was influential in the U19 team which beat Pakistan. He is the perfect example of what we are all trying to achieve here.

“It is about the development of players who are going to represent the UAE and go on to help make UAE a force in world cricket.” 

UFC FIGHT NIGHT: SAUDI ARABIA RESULTS

Main card
Middleweight:

Robert Whittaker defeated Ikram Aliskerov via knockout (Round 1)
Heavyweight:
Alexander Volkov def Sergei Pavlovich via unanimous decision
Middleweight:
Kelvin Gastelum def Daniel Rodriguez via unanimous decision
Middleweight:
Shara Magomedov def Antonio Trocoli via knockout (Round 3)
Light heavyweight:
Volkan Oezdemir def Johnny Walker via knockout (Round 1)
Preliminary Card
Lightweight:

Nasrat Haqparast def Jared Gordon via split decision
Featherweight:
Felipe Lima def Muhammad Naimov via submission (Round 3)
Welterweight:
Rinat Fakhretdinov defeats Nicolas Dalby via split decision
Bantamweight:
Muin Gafurov def Kang Kyung-ho via unanimous decision
Light heavyweight:
Magomed Gadzhiyasulov def Brendson Ribeiro via majority decision
Bantamweight:
Chang Ho Lee def Xiao Long via split decision

Results

6.30pm Madjani Stakes Rated Conditions (PA) I Dh160,000 1,900m I Winner: Mawahib, Tadhg O’Shea (jockey), Eric Lemartinel (trainer)

7.05pm Maiden Dh150,000 1,400m I Winner One Season, Antonio Fresu, Satish Seemar

7.40pm: Maiden Dh150,000 2,000m I Winner Street Of Dreams, Pat Dobbs, Doug Watson

8.15pm Dubai Creek Listed Dh250,000 1,600m I Winner Heavy Metal, Royston Ffrench, Salem bin Ghadayer

8.50pm The Entisar Listed Dh250,000 2,000m I Winner Etijaah, Dane O’Neill, Doug Watson

9.25pm The Garhoud Listed Dh250,000 1,200m Winner Muarrab, Dane O’Neill, Ali Rashid Al Raihe

10pm Handicap Dh160,000 1,600m Winner Sea Skimmer, Patrick Cosgrave, Helal Al Alawi

GOLF’S RAHMBO

- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)

Top 10 most competitive economies

1. Singapore
2. Switzerland
3. Denmark
4. Ireland
5. Hong Kong
6. Sweden
7. UAE
8. Taiwan
9. Netherlands
10. Norway

BACK TO ALEXANDRIA

Director: Tamer Ruggli

Starring: Nadine Labaki, Fanny Ardant

Rating: 3.5/5

Results:

CSIL 2-star 145cm One Round with Jump-Off

1.           Alice Debany Clero (USA) on Amareusa S 38.83 seconds

2.           Anikka Sande (NOR) For Cash 2 39.09

3.           Georgia Tame (GBR) Cash Up 39.42

4.           Nadia Taryam (UAE) Askaria 3 39.63

5.           Miriam Schneider (GER) Fidelius G 47.74


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