Local reaction: Women say designs fall short of standards for Muslim dress


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Emirati women in Abu Dhabi were unimpressed when shown pictures of Sarah Elenany's "Islamic-focused" clothes by The National. While some admired the designs and fresh look and said they would consider wearing them abroad, the consensus was that the abaya was still the outfit of choice. Zainab al Ameeri, 21, a Sharjah resident who is visiting her sister in the capital, shook her head as she scrutinised the images. "I don't see it. It doesn't look like clothes for Muslim girls."

She said the abaya was a conservative Islamic dress that distinguished Muslim girls from others. "I know that there are girls who don't have abaya in their culture, but the clothes have to be wide, and unrevealing of a woman's figure." While she thought that the designs were striking, she said if the fashion line was introduced in the UAE, "people won't care if it was designed for Muslim girls or not".

Alyazi al Mazroui, 24, a nutrition student at Zayed University, said: "It's like any other clothes found in the stores here." Wearing a stylish, decorated abaya, Ms al Mazroui had nothing to say about the long sleeves, but she was concerned about the upper part of the shirts and the hoods. "There has to be no presentation of the body. But the shirts show the figure a little, and the hood doesn't do much to cover the head."

While the shirts had a near acceptable length near the knees, the length of the trousers was the first thing Zainah Salem, a 23-year-old engineering student at United Arab Emirates University, noticed. "The pants are short." If they were long, and wide, it wouldn't be a problem, she said - and would consider wearing them abroad. Fatima al Seraidy, a 13-year-old student from Masafi, Fujairah, said she saw nothing Islamic about the garments, while her sister, Moza al Seraidy, 28, liked the designs on the shirts, but commented on how tight they were.

"Even when I go abroad, I would wear a wide shirt, like the abaya, that would reach just beneath the knees, and pants. And, of course, the headscarf," she said. The idea that the clothes might be worn without the abaya was inconceivable to the women. "No way would women leave the abayas," Ms al Seraidy said. Um Saleh, a 60-year-old Emirati, and Abu Dhabi resident, concurred. "For Arab girls, it's hard for them to leave the abaya. She would have a bad reputation," she said.

Mostly, it was because the community had conflicting ideas about what they saw as religiously appropriate. She said: "Some people think that decorations on the abaya are religiously unacceptable, can you imagine?" She added that young Muslim women and girls should encourage modesty among each other. Her daughter, Um Mohammed, 23, also believed that abandoning the abaya would detract from the individuality of Muslim girls.

"I don't think it would work in Arab countries. Abayas, or clothes that don't show the figure, are the one thing that distinguishes us from other places," she said. * The National

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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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