Lying in the softest sheets imaginable, the darkness absolute, silence total and temperature unnoticeable, it took a moment to remember that we were in the heart of bustling Bangkok.
The same otherworldly holiday experience repeats itself 20 metres deep into the Andaman Sea. Swimming among a shoal of fish so large and intense in their yellows, reds and blues, it feels more Nemo film still than real life.
The feeling I've escaped reality continues to repeat itself throughout my two-week journey, where I take planes, boats and a family of five across Thailand – a country that not only never fails to deliver, but whose standards only keep going up.
High-rise elegance
“Is this a first world or a developing country?” is a reasonable question for our 16-year-old to ask when spinning through the high-rise elegance and refined modern architecture of Bangkok that sits alongside stifling homes made of corrugated iron or decaying colonial masonry.
Within this struggle lies the Four Seasons Bangkok, providing an oasis of calm amid and engaging interior decor. It is pure excellence in service and with a vast buffet serving that, we all agreed, were the best breakfasts we had ever had in a hotel.
The attention to detail extends to its gym, where a fridge contains not only gratefully received cold, damp towels but healthy protein drinks to fuel the body for the intense workout that ‘Boy’, the former Thai boxer, can ad hoc impose on the unwary traveller.
The body’s exertion melts away under the strong showers and comforting sheets in the blacked-out room which shuts out everything from the outside world.
So much so that one criticism might be the hotel so beguiles its audience that it’s difficult to explore beyond. Only the courtesy boat provides an immediate outlet by sailing down the Chao Phraya River to the high-end Siam Mall, which hosts everything from Chanel to Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada.
The neighbouring Shangri-La hotel has a similar effect, its penthouse rooms soaring above the city. At its base is an excellent restaurant offering exquisite curries and fine Australian steaks where guests can enjoy a full buffet for $60, or Dh221.
Emerald isle
The swift and efficient Bangkok Airways service, which covers much of Thailand’s internal travel, whisks us to the green isle of Koh Samui in an hour. Once a fisherman’s island, it is now home to wealthy ex-patriots and exquisite hotels.
The influx of wealthy foreigners eager for a life in the tropics close to the beach and with virtual office work has resulted in soaring development, with a spaghetti of electricity wires framing the roads that lead to high-end villas and hotels.
But it has the magic of leaving behind the absorbing bustle by bundling us into almost instantaneous relaxation in the hidden charms of the Sala Choenmong Hotel.
Here, the slopping roofs of its delightful villas are surrounded by high white walls that completely hide the small swimming pool each room has. That is a great reassurance for more conservative guests who wish to swim in private, then sunbath in the small courtyards.
Beyond its walls, the hotel’s adult infinity pool, overlooking the white sands and palm trees, serves up a refreshing dip when the heat proves too onerous. The same goes for the family pool, where children splash delightedly in the sunshine. The food and service are also outstanding, both unobtrusive and understanding.
Despite spending a decade there, Timo Kuenzli, Sala’s relaxed and approachable general manager from Switzererland, is still “in awe” of how Thailand makes everything so convenient.
Sala’s relaxed comfort is what he calls moving away from the luxury of a Ferrari or Bentley to a “perfect setting with the casual feeling of a home from home”.
The allure of Samui is the “beautiful quiet places” that team with the “hustling and bustling” ones.
Samui’s beauty can also be captured offshore, particularly with the sunset cruises offered by the ‘Red Baron’. It hosts diving off the bridge as the sun settles over the Andaman alongside delicious barbecue seafood. Prices start at $75 per adult, and half that for children.
Samui nights
Despite Samui’s muggy evenings, the Fisherman’s Village and Walking Street are a must for the deliciously barbecued meats, fresh dishes and array of cut-price clothing, jewellery and watches.
The same evening warmth greets us as we enter the arena of the hugely popular Thai kick-boxing with the island hosting regular bouts of the unique boxing style.
At the Samui International stadium ($25 for adults), the atmosphere is almost filmic, with booming music but respect in the form of the semi-religious pre-bout ceremony undertaken by the boxers.
Then they fight, and there is little quarter given as punches are succeeded by kicks that strike like cobras followed by knees and elbows for good measure. On occasion those lashing foot movements result in a sudden flooring of an opponent, severely winded by a strike to the kidneys or knees. But there is no blood and the mutual respect between each fighter is remarkable.
That mutual respect for your opponent is not lost on our teenagers, aged 17 and 16, or even our youngest, 12, who manages to get a fist bump off one of the victors as he strides past our seats.
Again Samui’s off-street secrets deliver when, after a couple of sharp turnings down narrow streets, we find ourselves in a few acres of greenery and within touching distance of 3,000kg elephants. It is Samui’s Elephant Sanctuary Bophut where seven rescued females have been given a home away from the grim offering of tourist rides or logging.
To be close enough to touch and feed such majestic animals, who still bear the scars of ill-treatment, is a privilege. The expert handlers also taught us to make large rice balls, which the children took great delight in handing to the elephant before they were rapidly consumed.
Other delight are the restaurants with fine views that have sprung up down quiet roads, such as former advertising guru’s Sam Harari’s new Spoon, with its innovative dishes, including a delightful raw courgette, rocket, pine nut and Parmesan salad ($5.50). It was devoured by the children so rapidly we had to order several more.
Into the blue
We left the delights of Samui behind to find the deeper seas and their hidden colours. Samui has shallow waters, but off Koh Tao the ocean bed dips quickly down to 50 metres while throwing up pinnacles of rock that attract great schools of spectacularly coloured fish.
That environment is now accessible to families, with the island’s top dive schools, such as Big Blue, giving official SSI courses for children starting from 12 who can earn an adult certification.
After our ‘Nemo’-like dive amid the great yellow shoals, along with a close encounter with a Barrucuda, a massive grouper and testy ‘Trigger fish’ (who will snap at flesh to keep divers at bay from its young), our youngest son professed “that was the best day of my life”.
Amid the wreck and reef diving and translucent waters, it is difficult to argue that anything could be bettered for his screen-absorbed generation.
Big Blue has instructors of great calibre. Harry Gibbs is an example. He patiently went through the more challenging technical and dangerous aspects of diving with our two boys and it was reassuring.
Much of the credit goes to his boss, Jim Donaldson, who employs dive instructors who have no ego. “Unfortunately, instructors have a habit of going from being nobody to thinking they’re God,” he explains. “I can’t stand big egos so I just don't have those people.”
What he does like are the huge schools of fish that have appeared off Koh Tao, particularly since the Covid-19 pandemic. Customers pay 11,000 Thai Baht ($340) for a three-day open water course.
Safety is paramount for Big Blue’s owner. He survived the 2004 Tsunami that devastated Thailand’s west coast, but lost three staff and was among the many who migrated to the country’s calmer eastern waters.
Food, beaches, cabanas
Koh Tao used to be home to backpackers and tracks crossed only by moped but its popularity has resulted in growth, with cars, roads and quality hotels, including the well-run Koh Tao Cabana, everywhere to be seen.
Sitting at the end of the long, white sands of the Sairee beach, breakfast and dinner can be taken on its wooden balconies with delicious fresh fish and fruit on offer before time is spent at the hotel’s innovative waterfall swimming pool and cool cabanas.
The island is bustling and its more basic infrastructure means that the heat can become intense, yet it hosts excellent restaurants, like Barrucada, as well as delicious street-food which can fix a teenager’s hunger for a mere $1.50.
Younger people are also very present – evidenced by the jungle parties of DJs and dancing arenas cut into the greenery.
The only way to and from the island is via high-speed ferries. In their cooling breeze they offer a moment to contemplate the view and absorb the adventures experienced and family moments recorded. Diving in clear blue waters with two sons who were novice undersea explorers was something that will remain long in the memory.
When we arrive back, the ferry docking and unloading of more than 200 bags and people is done with typical Thai efficiency, despite the humidity.
Travelling as a family of five can present challenges, and the heat can be wearing, but the Thai charm, smiles, good humour, elegance and willingness to help take care of any problems means they can be overcome.
Thailand is clearly a country that is developing quickly, but it has managed to retain its charm, energy and landscape.
