How Hong Kong stole my heart in five whirlwind days

From taking in majestic harbour views to walking through charming alleyways, this South-East Asian retreat is timeless

Hong Kong is a city that defies categorisation. Florian Wehde / Unsplash

It begins the moment I touch down: a buzzing hum that tugs me towards the city like an invisible thread. Coming from the Middle East, a journey to South-East Asia can be a literal breath of fresh air – and in the hyper-urbanised sprawl of Hong Kong, it's a delicate balance of the novel and the familiar.

I'm visiting the Chinese territory for five days, and I'm determined to play it both ways: a dutiful tourist armed with a checklist of must-sees, but also an open-eyed wanderer, ready to slip into its quieter, local folds. Five days, I tell myself, is just enough time to scratch the surface – or, more accurately, to lightly graze it.

Day one: Arrival and elegance at The Langham

Flying from Dubai in Cathay Pacific's business class cabin is a fitting introduction to Hong Kong hospitality. After a smooth seven-hour flight, my group and I touch down at Hong Kong International Airport just before noon and get an immediate sense of modernity. I'm not surprised by this, given the city's reputation when it comes to efficiency and pace.

Much like airports in the UAE, the terminal is sleek with expansive glass walls inviting in natural light and creating an airy, open feel. As one of the busiest airports in the world, productivity is palpable, with endless streams of travellers moving gracefully through the spacious grounds. Immigration is swift and my luggage arrives without delay. Before long, I am en route to The Langham Hong Kong, where my group is staying for the next few days.

The Langham Hong Kong channels old-world charm, combining the city's British and Chinese influences. Photo: The Langham Hong Kong

The ride into the city is a gradual crescendo: the Lantau mountains roll past in lush waves, giving way to soaring bridges and towering buildings. This, I soon discover, is a key part of Hong Kong’s charm – the effortless fusion of verdant landscapes and futuristic energy.

About 30 minutes later, we arrive at the bustling Tsim Sha Tsui district, at the heart of the dense urban patchwork that is Kowloon, one of Hong Kong's three main geographical regions. The other two are Hong Kong Island, which houses the central financial district, and the New Territories, which offers a more tranquil escape with a generous serving of nature. Depending on what your main focus is, it's worth researching hotel options in each area. However, the city's Mass Transit Railway network is vast, so getting from one place to another is unlikely to be an issue.

Settling in at Kowloon means being right at the heart of local charm. Geographically connected to mainland China, the area beams with character and identity – with bustling streets, heritage buildings and more, a charming glimpse of Hong Kong's colonial past.

At The Langham, bellhops in crisp uniforms await at the door, and inside radiates with old-world charm: marble, grand chandeliers and all. The hotel is within walking distance to many of the famous tourist hubs in Kowloon, including the long-winding Nathan Road that is lined with shops and other establishments – from high-end stores to street markets where haggling is currency.

We finish day one with an exquisite dinner at T'ang Court, the hotel's three-Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant, where I have the best chicken of my life. One of Hong Kong's biggest draws is its vibrant street food culture, so I recommend wandering around for options.

Day two and three: Immersing in Hong Kong's pulse

Kowloon's streets brim with character. Peter Berko / Unsplash

The next morning, I'm greeted by the soft and balmy air, a refreshing tropical South-East Asian breeze. I embark on a quick morning stroll around the area, taking in Tsim Sha Tsui's early Monday buzz. Back at the hotel, I head to the club lounge for breakfast: flaky pastries, velvety congee with all the trimmings and fresh tropical fruits are a delight.

Next on the agenda is the K11 Musea, a relatively new mall that blends retail, culture and art. The venue is replete with unique elements, from floor graffiti to quirky sculptures made by local artists. Its location, along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, is also a good spot to take in the glistening Victoria Harbour, its surface alive with the movements of ferries. Across the water, the skyline of Hong Kong Island rises against a backdrop of green peaks that work to soften the sharp edges of the urban jungle.

Kowloon’s streets are a whirlwind of sights and sounds. The narrow alleys are alive with energy, each corner revealing glimpses of locals going about their day. Some rush with purpose, balancing shopping bags and phone calls, while others stroll leisurely, pausing to chat outside storefronts or purchase and devour steaming bowls of noodles from myriad unassuming street stalls. Above, laundry flutters from windows on bamboo poles, suspended against a backdrop of pastel-coloured apartment blocks, their weathered facades vibrant with decades of life.

Kowloon blends concrete jungle with charm-filled streets. Walter Cheung / Unsplash

Hopping on a sightseeing tour bus, we cross to Hong Kong Island, snaking through the financial district where high-end boutiques stand shoulder to shoulder with colonial-era relics. At every turn, the bus reveals a city constantly in motion. A sobering thought hits me: five days in Hong Kong won't be enough to truly explore it – I’d probably need five lifetimes, and maybe a personal guide who knows every noodle shop by name.

My group and I reach Harbour City, another expansive mall that's a haven for shoppers, at sunset. This venue houses the Ocean Terminal Deck, which is another perfect elevated spot from where to take in the harbour sights. The area becomes even more animated at night, when the streets unfold in a lively cadence. Neon signs hum to life, and the sounds of the city crescendo: the occasional honk of a minibus, the chatter of friends spilling out of cha chaan tengs (tea restaurants) and the call of hawkers selling everything from fish balls to replica handbags.

The next morning, our group takes a tour of Cordis, The Langham's hip sister hotel in Mong Kok, where we feast on lunch at one-Michelin-starred restaurant Ming Court. While some of the others have been struggling to find halal dining options across the city, there are appropriate options on the menu here.

After lunch, I head out to explore the district, which turns out to be the highlight of the trip. Every corner of Mong Kok buzzes with energy and the air is thick with the rhythmic banter of shopkeepers sprawled across the maze-like streets. It's hard not to marvel at the sheer density of life here – layer upon layer of commerce, culture and character packed into every square metre. It’s chaotic and it's loud and, at the same time, it's somehow utterly enchanting.

Day four and five: Highs and heights of Hong Kong

People walk along the promenade at West Kowloon Cultural District, adjacent to the Hong Kong Palace Museum. Unsplash

A visit to the Western Kowloon Art District awaits the next morning where we plan to check out the Hong Kong Palace Museum and its more modern counterpart M+ in the same complex. Culture buffs who want to learn more about Hong Kong, from its Chinese roots to its dazzling architecture and more will enjoy this. Top tip: the cafe at M+ has the best soft serve.

I'm lucky to visit while an exhibition featuring the works of Chinese fashion designer Guo Pei is on. Her famed yellow dress, worn by Rihanna at the Met Gala in 2015, on display dazzles even brighter up close.

Back at The Langham, afternoon tea awaits us in the elegant Palm Court lounge. This hotel, renowned for its refined hospitality, also hosts us for a calligraphy session, adding a unique touch to the experience. The Langham has a rich history when it comes to afternoon tea, with its London location often credited as the birthplace of this beloved tradition, having introduced it to hotel guests in 1865.

No journey to Hong Kong is complete without a ride on the Peak Tram, one of the world's oldest funicular railways. Ascending 396m above sea level, the tram climbs steeply up the lush slopes of Victoria Peak. Through its large glass windows, breathtaking vistas unfold: verdant hillsides punctuated by towering skyscrapers that seem to defy gravity.

While we hoped to witness the Hong Kong sunset from here, a thick fog descends, shrouding the city in an ethereal haze. Yet, the scene remains captivating, with the city's lights gradually twinkling into existence through the swirling mist.

Dinner is at Rajasthan Rifles, an Anglo-Indian restaurant in Peak Galleria. It's a good Halal-friendly option and offers a spicy breather from Cantonese food. We descend the peak and walk around Hong Kong Island at night, which offers a distinct vibe from Kowloon. It is a patchwork of slopes and hills, with streets winding up and down, and staircases on almost every corner.

The cable car rise is a must when in Hong Kong. Andi Winata / Unsplash

My last morning comes around way too quickly. To make the most of it a trip to Tung Chung cable car station is in order. The station buzzes with excited chatter, yet a sense of tranquillity pervades, perhaps due to the breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding mountains and the distant coastline. We board the Ngong Ping 360 and, as it ascends, we're greeted by a panoramic vista that seems to stretch on for ever. Below, the city of Tung Chung shrinks away, and the landscape unfolds glistening water, lush landscapes and the Giant Buddha taking shape.

The ride is smooth and serene, but there’s also an adrenalin rush, as the cable car sways in the wind – offering an exhilarating, yet still, end to my adventure. Saying goodbye to Hong Kong is harder than I expect. This vibrant metropolis defies easy categorisation, resisting the confines of any travel guide. Even as I board the plane back to Dubai, the city's pulsating energy lingers, its heartbeat echoing within me for days to come.