While Europe consistently ranks as the most-visited continent in the world, the Baltic states often fall under the radar. However, after a week in Tallinn, the picture-perfect capital of Estonia, I'm confident it won't stay this way for long.
Perched above Latvia, Estonia is the northernmost country of the Baltic states and is a nation peppered with striking landscapes and a fascinating history. The country is entirely unique: it shares a geography similar to Latvia and Lithuania, has a language (and love of saunas) most closely linked to the Fins and has a long Soviet influence that it has worked hard to shake off.
Tallinn is home to more than a third of the population. It's a place that's often a quick stop for tourists, who cross the water from Helsinki on a weekend trip or package a visit with stays in nearby Latvia and Lithuania.
After an easy 4km journey from the airport to the city centre, I find myself wandering around one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. Tallinn’s picturesque Old Town certainly earns its Unesco stripes. Gazing down from the city’s main viewpoints – Kohtuotsa, Patkuli and Piiskopi – I'm in awe of the steep red roofs and dramatic spires, encircled by a defensive wall of rounded towers all backdropped by the Baltic Sea.
Although the Old Town is walkable, with most of the main attractions close together, it's worth setting aside at least a full day for exploring as every turn through its meandering streets reveals something new. From the cobbles of Pikk Street, the longest and oldest road in Tallinn to St Catherine’s Passage, which is full of ancient history. On the Town Hall's spire sits Old Thomas, a peasant boy whose talent with the crossbow earned him legendary status as the city’s guardian. In the same square is the oldest pharmacy in Europe and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a domed Russian Orthodox church that sits at architectural odds with its neighbour, the Baroque Toompea Castle, now Estonia’s Parliament.
Of course, autumn getaways are as much about getting cosy as being cold, so after drinking in all of the Old Town's charms, it's time to warm up. The city has more than 40 museums, from the below-ground 17th-century bastion passages to magnificent art displayed in Kadriorg Palace. My favourite is the Seaplane Harbour, a hangar full of maritime items, including a submarine and a steam-powered icebreaker.
Museums aside, when I truly want to defrost, Tallinn has a sauna tradition as strong as its Scandinavian neighbours – the first written records of sauna bathing in Estonia date back to the 13th century. There are plenty of public saunas to embrace the culture, including the Tallinn Sauna, the oldest public sauna in the capital.
Estonia is a country that has fought hard for its identity. Occupied over the years by Sweden, Denmark, Poland and Germany, it's a country that has only had five decades of independence. Most recently, Estonia was part of the Soviet Union. Remnants of this remain via KGB prison cells and Hotel Viru, where a hidden 23rd floor shows where secret police spied on international tourists. The Tallinn TV Tower – originally built to provide better communication for the 1980 Moscow Olympics – is another. It's now northern Europe's highest open viewing platform and a symbol of modern Estonia.
Outside these well-known vestiges of the Soviet era are lesser-known venues including the abandoned Olympic venue Linnahall. Located by the harbour, just beyond the Old City walls, it remains closed to the public but some urban exploring of the Brutalist structure reveals some interesting street graffiti, and a decent view of the surrounding area.
With time to explore beyond Tallinn's medieval walls, I discover a bustling, vibrant culture. While some of the city's historical buildings remain unused and abandoned, many have been repurposed as community spaces. In one former industrial complex is Telliskivi Creative City, a place where the graffitied urban grit and creative pulse remind me of Copenhagen’s Christiana or Ljubljana’s Metelkova. It is the rebellious, and cooler, younger sibling of Tallinn's Old Town. It's a place to go and get lost wandering, soaking up bohemian vibes, exploring the multistorey Fotografiska museum and stopping for a bite to eat – I recommend Peatus, a restaurant that's housed in two train cars.
Of course, no autumn city break is complete without a visit to an indoor market, and Tallinn’s three-floored Balti Jaam is the result of further adaptive reuse. There are endless street food options here, from local Estonian delights to international fare. Try Samsa Family Bakers to sample delicious and freshly made Uzbek dishes or keep things local with a sweet home-style cinnamon braid.
With a full stomach, it's time to head to the seaside. Noblessner is on Tallinn's north coast next to the Seaplane Harbour and is a former submarine shipyard that was founded by Emanual Nobel, the nephew of Nobel Prize founder Alfred Nobel. Today, the neighbourhood is one of Tallinn's trendiest spots for drinking and dining – it's home to 180°, considered one of the country's top three restaurants – and has art galleries, saunas and nightlife spots. It's also my insider tip as the best place to go to drink in an uninterrupted sunset view over the Baltic Sea.
