Towering above limestone cliffs, 13th-century monasteries and teeming flora and fauna, are rugged mountain peaks capped with snow. I breathe in the crisp air and enjoy the brilliant sunshine in a scene that could be straight from the Alps. But I’m not in France, Switzerland, Italy or Austria. I’m sitting at a long wooden table in the shadow of Mount Ararat. The table is piled high with sharing platters of locally produced cheese and raw vegetables, I sit back, relax and take it all in, just as the Armenians do.
Only a three-hour flight from the UAE, Armenia is a breath of fresh air, especially when temperatures are high in the Gulf. With visa-free entry for Emiratis and 20 other nationalities – and e-visas available for many other travellers – the destination is a top contender for those seeking an under-the-radar holiday location.
Locals say spring and autumn are the best times to visit and make the most of what they call velvet season. From April to June and again in September and October, temperatures are ideal for outdoor pursuits and there is plenty to do, from hiking and kayaking to ziplines and horse-riding as well as roaming the streets on cultural, gastronomical and religious tours.
Though summer is a tad hot for wandering the city comfortably, it is the best time to navigate water sports in the country’s lakes and reservoirs or tackle some of its stunning mountain hiking routes. This is a country with four distinct seasons. Winter brings snow, which in turn lures skiers and winter sports fans. Armenia is a year-round destination.
Yerevan: Armenia's capital of contrasts
Arriving on a direct early-morning flight from Abu Dhabi, followed by a 20-minute transfer to Yerevan, I’m excited to be in Armenia’s historic capital with a whole day of exploration in front of me.
As one of the oldest countries in the world, and the first to declare itself a Christian nation, Armenia has enough cultural and religious history to keep even the most avid history-buff engaged. To ensure I don’t miss a thing, I join local tour guide Arpi, whose love for her country shines through in everything she says and does.
We meet at the Tufenkian Kharpert restaurant, located inside the historic Tufenkian hotel where I’m staying. We sit among colourful carpets which cover the floors and walls, a quaint setting with a nod to tradition that’s a nice sample of what lies ahead.
Known as the Pink City, thanks to the distinctive rose-hued tufa stone used in its architecture, Yerevan, Arpi tells me over lunch, is steeped in history and charm. Excited to see some of it for ourselves, we head out to tree-lined avenues and dive right into the city’s cultural delights. The monumental Cascade Complex is first. Built in the 1970s, the imposing structure is a huge stairway that links Yerevan Centre to the Haghtanak Park and Monument neighbourhoods. We opt to take the indoor escalator rather than tackle the 500-plus steps.
This cultured ascent treats us to a feast of artwork, culminating in a panoramic view, dotted with a mix of modern and Soviet buildings against a mountain backdrop. In the gardens below, we spot three striking sculptures by renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero. To see art produced closer to home, made by Armenians and the country’s expansive diaspora, our next stop is Armenia Modern Art Museum. With a modest exterior, the museum is home to a small but carefully curated exhibition with eclectic pieces covering the walls and floor space in no discernible order.
I feel safe morning and night in a city centre that is very walkable. There is little need for taxis – just as well, because the ancient narrow streets make traffic and parking a time-consuming pursuit.
A view of the future in Yenokavan
From the capital, it is easy to venture out and explore Armenia on a day trip. So next morning, we head out of town early to avoid the traffic, passing a ubiquitous stream of white Ladas – the small, boxy Soviet-era cars that are still workhouse staples in the Caucasus – as we go.
Before long, the cityscape gives way to green pastures and rolling hills. Heading north out of the capital, we are on our way to Dilijan, but first we stop at Lake Sevan. Just an hour from the city, it is the largest body of water in the Caucasus region. On the north-west bank of the lake, set on a narrow rocky peninsula, is one of the most prominent examples of medieval Armenian architecture – Sevanavank Monastery, also known as the black monastery. Here, the wind is blowing with force and we pull our jackets tight as we ascend the steps leading to the chapel. Arpi tell us we are surrounded by five separate mountain ranges and points out Sevana, Vardenis and Geghama – the three that are visible on the horizon.
Arriving in Dilijan a little later, I am intrigued by the spa town’s beauty. With 22 streams of mineral water, it is one of the most verdant parts of the country and home to a multitude of wildlife including Caucasian deer, Armenian brown bears, vultures, hawks and eagles. At nearby Toon Armeni Little Village, we take part in a tolma-making masterclass, learning how to make and assemble the tasty stuffed vine leaves surrounded by a picturesque hillside.
Stuffed and ready to sleep, we drive along a serpentine road to Yenokavan, where our hotel for the night peeks through the trees each time we round a bend. Translating to future, Apaga Resort exemplifies the Armenian perspective of future as most of us would view the past. Stone-built, two-storey houses perched on the mountainside offer uninterrupted valley views combined with a back-to-basics ethos.
Rising early next morning, we head out to tackle the nearby zip line course at Yell Extreme Park, the hotel’s sister company. I’ve zipped across valleys around the world, but the views here are decidedly impressive. Children are also very welcome, and the accommodating instructors tell me that their youngest rider was seven months old (strapped to dad, of course).
Ancient lava and reservoir kayaking in Garni
The highlight of my trip to Armenia lies an hour east of Yerevan in Garni, where the country’s last remaining pagan temple sits alone and isolated on the edge of a cliff. Down below in the valley is a striking volcanic rock formation called the Symphony of Stones. Standing tall and casting a shadow over a winding country lane, the formation of unique hexagonal columns was created 40 million years ago as lava flowed down the gorge. Frozen in time, they now drop as near symmetrical rocks into the flowing waters below.
From here, we hop into a 4x4 for a scenic drive to Azat Reservoir, where kayaking on the calm waters is on the agenda. With empty shorelines asides from the occasional fisherman, and the silence only pierced by the moo of a distant cow, we paddle until our hands begin to ache, the perfect end to a day of exploration.
Coming full circle in Yeghegnadzor
East of Yerevan is Yeghegnadzor, and we head here to see Noravank Monastery. Built out of natural stone, the chapel is so tall that it is visible from the road on our approach. Red limestone cliffs rise even higher, and our guide tells us that this is also the place to spot mountain goats teetering on the dizzying narrow ledges. Sadly, we don't see any on our visit.
Lunch at nearby Old Bridge brings us almost full circle. Seated outside at a long, wooden table, we are served regional delicacies made from fresh ingredients as the owner’s son explains more about the property which is named after an ancient arch bridge that was an important trade crossing for the Great Silk Road in the early Middle Ages.
Under a flapping red, blue and yellow flag, we drink in the surrounding views as we tuck into the delicious cuisine, and I mentally start saying my goodbye to this beautiful country and its effortless charms.
