On Nikolskaya Street, beneath the speckled lights that guide the way to Red Square and under the rain, Moscow hummed and heaved, finally, to the sound of the World Cup.
A giant clock counted down to Thursday's match between hosts Russia and their opponents Saudi Arabia, the beginning of a first global finals to take place in the country. A global finals in which Russia hopes to parade itself to the world as a modern Russia, progressive and inclusive.
On that night, everyone felt as one. Moscow was in celebratory mood, in this section of this sprawling city at least, as singing, chanting and dancing ricocheted around in the shadow of the Kremlin.
The Peru fans were lively and loud, with their inflatable llamas and countless flags. This is Peru's first appearance at the tournament in 36 years, so understandably the supporters of the last team to qualify for Russia want to make a lasting impression.
They had competition up and down the thronging street, from the Egyptians dressed as pharaohs and tooting horns, to the Mexicans buried beneath sombreros or hiding behind lucha libre masks. Hiding in plain sight, happy for all the world to see.
There were Argentines everywhere as well, banging drums, perched high on street signs, with homemade placards plastered across walls.
They crowed about Lionel Messi, a taunt to their Brazilian rivals, who ceased crooning about Gabriel Jesus so they could respond with their own version of that Messi ditty, one less complimentary to perhaps the greatest player at this World Cup and any that have gone before.
There were those who had travelled from Saudi Arabia, less conspicuous, but only because they were swallowed by the colour and the clamour. Still, they waved plastic flags, draped themselves in green flags.
Yousef Sharif, a business coach based in Jubail, came with his brother and four sons, never thinking he would witness in person his country at a World Cup. He smiled at the welcome commotion around him.
“It's really something we did not expect at all," Sharif said. “It’s very, very special. This is the holy month for us; usually we stay home. Tomorrow is our Eid celebrations. So we hope we have two Eid celebrations: that Saudi will win the first match and we have our Eid.”
His son Adnan agreed.
“I have never lived moments like this,” he said, as thoughts drifted towards the national anthem blared out at the Luzhniki Stadium for all to hear. “I don’t live it yet, but it will be something indescribable. Indescribable.”
Hany Toma, an Egyptian pharmacist born and raised in the United States, was not so lost for words. Dressed as a pharaoh and agreeing to an endless stream of selfies, he will watch his country against Uruguay and Russia, then skydive in Saint Petersburg.
“There’s about 100 of us, we met on the Egyptian Facebook page,” Toma screamed above the racket. “So it’s not just about soccer. It’s about Egyptians from all over the world, hanging out. From Egypt, USA, Gulf area.
“Since 1990, we didn’t make the World Cup. But now our dreams come true, so I can’t wait. I hope we qualify every time.”
Some hope more than others. While visitors look forward to the next four weeks with excitement, the natives are not so much. As the lowest-ranked team at the tournament, genuine optimism for Russia seems only for the foolhardy and the few.
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Read more on World Cup 2018:
World Cup 2018 at Russia's doorstep but no sign of winter ending for home team
Russia determined 'to turn criticism to positive feedback' amid woes
Guides, predictions, podcasts, galleries and where to watch in UAE
10 Golden Boot contenders beyond Messi and Ronaldo
In pictures: How the home kits are ranked
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On Wednesday, The Moscow Times front page carried the headline: "Aging [sic] and inexperienced: Why Russia is doomed to fail". Inside, it questioned whether Stanislav Cherchesov's side are the worst in the country's history.
Not all Russians are apathetic, although that sentiment is said to be prevalent. On Wednesday, Cherchesov quipped: “I think half the country will only find out we are hosting a World Cup tomorrow… we want to show we are worthy of hosting such a large-scale tournament.”
The majority wishes that the World Cup is remembered for the right reasons, not for Russia’s long-standing issues with racism or hooliganism. Groups have been warned against violence by the government, with the police presence thickened.
However, a state-funded poll claimed 74 per cent of Russians held a positive view about hosting the US$10.7 billion (Dh39.3bn) World Cup.
Julia Bryansk, a student at Moscow Technology University, working this month as an official volunteer, was one such soul.
"I can't find the words to explain this incredible celebration," she said as she walked along Nikolskaya Street, eyes wide. "It's so cool."
She laughed when asked if the success of the World Cup is dependent on the success of its host team.
“I think no. They’re so bad at football. But it doesn’t matter. What matters is the celebration in Russia. It’s a big, fantastic time for us. So many people here from outside.
"It’s special for me; special for us.”
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The specs: 2017 Dodge Viper SRT
Price, base / as tested Dh460,000
Engine 8.4L V10
Transmission Six-speed manual
Power 645hp @ 6,200rpm
Torque 813Nm @ 5,000rpm
Fuel economy, combined 16.8L / 100km
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Retirement funds heavily invested in equities at a risky time
Pension funds in growing economies in Asia, Latin America and the Middle East have a sharply higher percentage of assets parked in stocks, just at a time when trade tensions threaten to derail markets.
Retirement money managers in 14 geographies now allocate 40 per cent of their assets to equities, an 8 percentage-point climb over the past five years, according to a Mercer survey released last week that canvassed government, corporate and mandatory pension funds with almost $5 trillion in assets under management. That compares with about 25 per cent for pension funds in Europe.
The escalating trade spat between the US and China has heightened fears that stocks are ripe for a downturn. With tensions mounting and outcomes driven more by politics than economics, the S&P 500 Index will be on course for a “full-scale bear market” without Federal Reserve interest-rate cuts, Citigroup’s global macro strategy team said earlier this week.
The increased allocation to equities by growth-market pension funds has come at the expense of fixed-income investments, which declined 11 percentage points over the five years, according to the survey.
Hong Kong funds have the highest exposure to equities at 66 per cent, although that’s been relatively stable over the period. Japan’s equity allocation jumped 13 percentage points while South Korea’s increased 8 percentage points.
The money managers are also directing a higher portion of their funds to assets outside of their home countries. On average, foreign stocks now account for 49 per cent of respondents’ equity investments, 4 percentage points higher than five years ago, while foreign fixed-income exposure climbed 7 percentage points to 23 per cent. Funds in Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Taiwan are among those seeking greater diversification in stocks and fixed income.
• Bloomberg
Selected fixtures
All times UAE
Wednesday
Poland v Portugal 10.45pm
Russia v Sweden 10.45pm
Friday
Belgium v Switzerland 10.45pm
Croatia v England 10.45pm
Saturday
Netherlands v Germany 10.45pm
Rep of Ireland v Denmark 10.45pm
Sunday
Poland v Italy 10.45pm
Monday
Spain v England 10.45pm
Tuesday
France v Germany 10.45pm
Rep of Ireland v Wales 10.45pm
Tips to stay safe during hot weather
- Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of fluids, especially water. Avoid alcohol and caffeine, which can increase dehydration.
- Seek cool environments: Use air conditioning, fans, or visit community spaces with climate control.
- Limit outdoor activities: Avoid strenuous activity during peak heat. If outside, seek shade and wear a wide-brimmed hat.
- Dress appropriately: Wear lightweight, loose and light-coloured clothing to facilitate heat loss.
- Check on vulnerable people: Regularly check in on elderly neighbours, young children and those with health conditions.
- Home adaptations: Use blinds or curtains to block sunlight, avoid using ovens or stoves, and ventilate living spaces during cooler hours.
- Recognise heat illness: Learn the signs of heat exhaustion and heat stroke (dizziness, confusion, rapid pulse, nausea), and seek medical attention if symptoms occur.
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Sole survivors
- Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
- George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
- Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
- Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
UAE%20SQUAD
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UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
The specs
Engine: 8.0-litre, quad-turbo 16-cylinder
Transmission: 7-speed auto
0-100kmh 2.3 seconds
0-200kmh 5.5 seconds
0-300kmh 11.6 seconds
Power: 1500hp
Torque: 1600Nm
Price: Dh13,400,000
On sale: now
War
Director: Siddharth Anand
Cast: Hrithik Roshan, Tiger Shroff, Ashutosh Rana, Vaani Kapoor
Rating: Two out of five stars
Gothia Cup 2025
4,872 matches
1,942 teams
116 pitches
76 nations
26 UAE teams
15 Lebanese teams
2 Kuwaiti teams
Uefa Nations League: How it works
The Uefa Nations League, introduced last year, has reached its final stage, to be played over five days in northern Portugal. The format of its closing tournament is compact, spread over two semi-finals, with the first, Portugal versus Switzerland in Porto on Wednesday evening, and the second, England against the Netherlands, in Guimaraes, on Thursday.
The winners of each semi will then meet at Porto’s Dragao stadium on Sunday, with the losing semi-finalists contesting a third-place play-off in Guimaraes earlier that day.
Qualifying for the final stage was via League A of the inaugural Nations League, in which the top 12 European countries according to Uefa's co-efficient seeding system were divided into four groups, the teams playing each other twice between September and November. Portugal, who finished above Italy and Poland, successfully bid to host the finals.
The story of Edge
Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces, established Edge in 2019.
It brought together 25 state-owned and independent companies specialising in weapons systems, cyber protection and electronic warfare.
Edge has an annual revenue of $5 billion and employs more than 12,000 people.
Some of the companies include Nimr, a maker of armoured vehicles, Caracal, which manufactures guns and ammunitions company, Lahab